Chambering question

cgarb

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Oct 7, 2012
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235
I just finished my 1st rebarrel job from a blank. It's a Mauser, in 338-06. I replaced the original barrel with an Adams & Bennett prefit, it didn't shoot well and copper fouled. I bought a Wilson Arms stainless #4 blank and did the threading and chambering on my lathe. I did the work in a steadyrest. My lathe has no spider on the back and the thru bore is small. My question is when I tightened the action to the barrel the go gage the bolt will fall on it but with very light resistance. You don't have to force it closed or anything, but you can feel that it is right there. Is that a good place to be or should I skim another .001 or .002" from the chamber?
 
I had a rifle that would feed back to my "feel" just a teeny-tiny bit of crush fit on closing of the bolt. The rifle shot into the .200s. I'd try your barrel job and see what kind of groups it will produce. If you get satisfactory results per your standards, I'd leave it...
 
You don't want to force it closed, Do you have a No go Gage? If not put a piece of scotch tape on the base of the go gage (trim to fit the rim dia) and use this as you No Go Gage. I shoot for .002-.004" over GO gage length as my No-GO length.

I have learned with certain cartridges chambering them with tight headspace is not always the best due to sizing dies not sizing the base of the cartridge enough. So if it grows a .001" more then the sizing die can resize it back and fit the chamber.
 
Yes, I have a no go...it does not go. A sized fired case the bolt will close on easily also. I'm not forcing the bolt closed. It closes with ease but you can feel it take the slack up when the gage is in there. It's touching but not touching kind of thing. I'm going to shoot it and see.
 
There are only a few manufacturers of 338-06 A-Square ammo....(Nosler is one)...if you plan on using factory ammo I would make sure it chambers easily.
Sounds like it is right where I would want it after torquing the barrel. Close with a very very light resistance. You could easily take another thousandth or two by hand anytime if you run into any problem.
If you plan on reloading anyway it sounds like you are good to go.
Good luck,
Randy
 
I just finished my 1st rebarrel job from a blank. It's a Mauser, in 338-06. I replaced the original barrel with an Adams & Bennett prefit, it didn't shoot well and copper fouled. I bought a Wilson Arms stainless #4 blank and did the threading and chambering on my lathe. I did the work in a steadyrest. My lathe has no spider on the back and the thru bore is small. My question is when I tightened the action to the barrel the go gage the bolt will fall on it but with very light resistance. You don't have to force it closed or anything, but you can feel that it is right there. Is that a good place to be or should I skim another .001 or .002" from the chamber?
You are good
 
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