Caliber choice
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Are you new to shooting as well as hand loading? I ask because long range is a journey- and I don't mean to sound like a jerk when I say that, I promise.
if you are new to both, I would recommend a 30 cal- probably a 30-06. It's boring to some compared to the newer cartridges of today, but there is tons of data out there for it and components are easier to find. It will work with a wide variety of powder and bullets...your hardest part will be finding primers. You can use this cartridge to learn solid shooting skills and build a foundation that will help you determine what is next for you. It won't beat you up, and it'll handle anything you're wanting to set your crosshairs on within the likely ranges you'll be shooting during your learning process.
Good luck, and welcome to the forum!
Aoudad shooter1975
Well-Known Member
7mm Remington magnum, 300 Winchester magnum,
If you want to be new and cool... 28 Nosler, 300 PRC, 30 nosler
There are some good options factory, and a lot of good data out there..if you are new to both--I'd say the above advice is good--I'd probably go 308 as it seems to be found today in greater variety of rifles and loads
If you want to be new and cool... 28 Nosler, 300 PRC, 30 nosler
There are some good options factory, and a lot of good data out there..if you are new to both--I'd say the above advice is good--I'd probably go 308 as it seems to be found today in greater variety of rifles and loads
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New to reloading but no brand new shooter. Have lots of time behind a gun just havent ever really shot beyond 5-600 yards. Killed my elk last year at 400 with a 300 wsm. I know that is a good caliber but my gun is just not set up to reach out there "accurately" and have been wanting to try a new caliber in a new package.
Thank you for your advice. Thought about 28 Nosler but a buddy talked me out of it.
Your buddy gave you some good advice!
I may have misread your original post- I somehow took it as you were also wanting to get into loading your own AND beginning to shoot further out.
Your 300wsm is a great cartridge and has the ability to reach out there. An elk at 400 is no joke! If you want more, I certainly understand that. I would still consider learning all you can about hand loading though, and if not already doing so, fine tune a loads for that 300wsm you have. Maybe tweak the rifle, too, so that it is better suited for LR.
If you really just want something new, and don't want to load, any of the magnums already listed will do it. Even bigger, the 338 Lapua will pack a punch! Factory ammo is expensive, and currently it is quite scarce, so I still recommend diving into the deep end of the hand loading pool no matter what you end up with. Plus, it's fun!
How well do you handle recoil?
Aoudad shooter1975
Well-Known Member
If you want a true hammer get a 338 Norma...fits into a standard long action without too much hassle, and can be built into a packable long range rig of reasonable weightwith a 225 grain Lazerhead, or a 250 berger--it is a laser beam and it bucks wind very nice, build with a 22 in barrel and as light as you can with a good brake--and it hits....boy does it hit at long range.
Don't know why your buddy talked you out of a 28..the one I shot was a easy to shoot hammer--we were shooting 175 EOL bullets and slapping steel so easy at 600 yards it was almost a joke. I will say a 7 rem gets you about 90% there with a lot less cost...let us know what you end up with...
Don't know why your buddy talked you out of a 28..the one I shot was a easy to shoot hammer--we were shooting 175 EOL bullets and slapping steel so easy at 600 yards it was almost a joke. I will say a 7 rem gets you about 90% there with a lot less cost...let us know what you end up with...
The .300 WSM is no slouch, esp, with the right load. I have two .300 WSMs (24" and 26" barrel), the 24" is pushing the 215 Berger at 2800 FPS with RL-17. RL-26 gives you more velocity. If you can push it above 2800 FPS, it is a 1KY elk rifle. I am not sure what you mean by your gun is not set-up to reach out accurately. You might need a tweak here and there; who knows, it might be a simple and cost-effective option for now until things settle... and hopefully soon. I got my fingers and toes crossed.
LRNut
Well-Known Member
I used to be a huge 7RM fan but then moved up to a RUM and then .338s - LM and Edge. But then I tried a 28N - we will see how fast the barrels burn out, but I had two built by the same guy - both are super accurate and shoot exactly the same load. I have one to practice with, and one for hunting. I have not tried a 7RM with newer powders, but from what I have seen the 28N kicks the 7RM's butt when it comes to LR. That said, a 7mm 195 at 3000, a .308 225 ELD at 3150, or .338 285 ELD or 300 Berger around 2800 fps all have about the same wind drift.
I am a huge .338 WM fan; shot most of the planet with one, but it wouldn't be my choice for LR.
I like everything Aoudad shooter said until he got to the .308. Although the .308 is a very fine caliber. The case design is timeless. That being said, since you stated that you are going to hunt elk, the more powerful weapons in 7mm and .30 caliber take a little of the guesswork out of some of the hunting variables. I know, someone is going to say there should be no guesswork or variables in hunting, but sometimes the wind is a little different than you think it is and sometimes the range is not quite what it seems to be on a quicker shot. I like magnums and improved cartridges. It is just a failing of mine. I hunt with a 378 Weatherby magnum and I just bought a 340 Weatherby magnum just because. Just sayin'.
dwinmeade
Well-Known Member
Trying to put myself in your position, is rather hard as I'm 69 and becoming recoil sensitive. And yet I'm shooting/sighting in my friends 30-06...and surviving. He also has a 300 Weatherby Magnum to sight in, but not by me!
LR involves a lot of shooting to be good at it, which means the caliber has to be fun/enjoyable to shoot...AND...somewhat economical as well. I would ask myself, what caliber do the LR professionals shoot? I don't know any pro LR shooters per sie, but I do follow Erik Cortina, who is. He shoots a 6.5 x 47 Lapua. This recoil will allow you plenty of enjoyable, economical shooting while developing an accurate load. Here are some steps I would do if I was going LR:
1)...pick a known accurate caliber (a 6.5x47 Lapua might do nicely), that's economical in a rifle package you can carry in the woods, since hunting is your major goal, not bench rest shooting per sie, but you'll do plenty of this along the way.
2)...pick your elk killing bullet...NOW...your focus should be getting your rifle, scope, bullet, powder, brass, & primer to shoot as one.
2)...DO NOT SKIMP on a scope! Rule of thumb...a $1500 rifle deserves a $1500 scope. You can't hit what you can't see.
3)...upgrade your minimal knowledge of reloading to just the particular caliber you'll be shooting...it will take the rest of your life to learn the rest of reloading.
4)...DO NOT SKIMP on your bench rest shooting platform. Your focus should be getting your rifle/load to shoot as one. Eliminate as much of 'you' as possible when developing your shooting groups, so when you miss that elk at 800 yards, it won't the rifle/load's fault.
5)...focus shooting at 100 yards...PRACTICE-PRACTICE-PRACTICE...until you can shoot out the eye of a woodchuck at 100 yards. (Because if you can't, you'll be useless at 1000 yards.)
6)...move to a 200 yard range, focusing on shooting 1/4" MOA groups (1/2" groups at this point).
7)...never move to the next 100 yard range until you've mastered the previous one. Jumping from a 100 yard range to a 500 yard range will bring in many problems that would have been eliminated by going through each 100 yard step systematically. (In other words, it doesn't pay to cheat!) Besides, moving through the 100 yard steps helps the learning needed for the bullet drop/windage adjustments.
, 8)...so you've reached the 1000 yard target...CONGRADULATIONS...you should be shooting 2.50" groups at 1000 yards...MAYBE...there's many variables between muzzle/1000 yards...BUT...if you can do 2.50" consistently, skip elk hunting, go PRO!
I know some of this is common knowledge, and can be ignored. But if I mentioned something that did tripped a trigger, then this was worth it!
Above all...make it a fun & enjoyable adventure!
LR involves a lot of shooting to be good at it, which means the caliber has to be fun/enjoyable to shoot...AND...somewhat economical as well. I would ask myself, what caliber do the LR professionals shoot? I don't know any pro LR shooters per sie, but I do follow Erik Cortina, who is. He shoots a 6.5 x 47 Lapua. This recoil will allow you plenty of enjoyable, economical shooting while developing an accurate load. Here are some steps I would do if I was going LR:
1)...pick a known accurate caliber (a 6.5x47 Lapua might do nicely), that's economical in a rifle package you can carry in the woods, since hunting is your major goal, not bench rest shooting per sie, but you'll do plenty of this along the way.
2)...pick your elk killing bullet...NOW...your focus should be getting your rifle, scope, bullet, powder, brass, & primer to shoot as one.
2)...DO NOT SKIMP on a scope! Rule of thumb...a $1500 rifle deserves a $1500 scope. You can't hit what you can't see.
3)...upgrade your minimal knowledge of reloading to just the particular caliber you'll be shooting...it will take the rest of your life to learn the rest of reloading.
4)...DO NOT SKIMP on your bench rest shooting platform. Your focus should be getting your rifle/load to shoot as one. Eliminate as much of 'you' as possible when developing your shooting groups, so when you miss that elk at 800 yards, it won't the rifle/load's fault.
5)...focus shooting at 100 yards...PRACTICE-PRACTICE-PRACTICE...until you can shoot out the eye of a woodchuck at 100 yards. (Because if you can't, you'll be useless at 1000 yards.)
6)...move to a 200 yard range, focusing on shooting 1/4" MOA groups (1/2" groups at this point).
7)...never move to the next 100 yard range until you've mastered the previous one. Jumping from a 100 yard range to a 500 yard range will bring in many problems that would have been eliminated by going through each 100 yard step systematically. (In other words, it doesn't pay to cheat!) Besides, moving through the 100 yard steps helps the learning needed for the bullet drop/windage adjustments.
, 8)...so you've reached the 1000 yard target...CONGRADULATIONS...you should be shooting 2.50" groups at 1000 yards...MAYBE...there's many variables between muzzle/1000 yards...BUT...if you can do 2.50" consistently, skip elk hunting, go PRO!
I know some of this is common knowledge, and can be ignored. But if I mentioned something that did tripped a trigger, then this was worth it!
Above all...make it a fun & enjoyable adventure!
Great advice! From you and everyone else here. Thank you all.
