Bubble level for rifle

W

*WyoWhisper*

Guest
after 400 yards or so. I wouldn't squeeze the trigger without one...

run some ballistics and see what rifle cant can do to you at distances greater than 500 yards or so... YIKES...!!

with 6 degrees of cant, your group opens up 2" at 500 yards.. now lets say on your first shot you're canted 6* left and on the second shot you're canted 6* right.. you just shot a 4" group... without other factors figured in!!!!

[ 03-01-2004: Message edited by: *WyoWhisper* ]
 
I have been using a different style of bubble level that attaches to the barrel of the scope using a QD scope ring. I like this Brownells version much more. I'll have to order a few.
 
I've found this with the one example of the Brownell's type that I own. If I level the rifle with a carpenter's level across the flat of the picatinny rail, the Brownell's level is off by 1/4 bubble. Looks like the tube is misaligned with the mounting screw or something.

I think I like the mount-on-scope style so I can precisely level and square the R2 reticle.
 
I was wondering about that too, simply no adjustment if it were off like that.

I've used a bunch of carpenter levels over time, and one thing you can count on is MOST of them are off, but at least you can spin them around and tell if they are. Seems like you're kind of locked in with this type on the rail. Guess you could shim it on one side.
 
Well... I shoot Badger Rings and there is a flat spot on the top of them.. I also shoot badger bases.. there are flat spots on them too...

I put a level on the top of the ring, on the base.. hang a plum line and double check everything.. so far my levels from brownell's have always beeen as level as everything else..

I know the one of my 300WSM and my 308 work..or the groups would have been much larger...
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i use them on all my rifles and they really do make a difference,like ric said,just a little bit of cant can really open those groups.my-2-dave
 
i use the ones that mount on the scope not the base,my buddy has one of the ones that sits on the rail and doesnt look like it would last a day in the field-well with me anyways im hard on gear[sticks out too far]-fwiw-dave
 
Are you sure you mean 6 degrees? Not 6 minutes? I mean, if 4" is all you get from 12 degrees included, a blind man could see that. On my drunkest day i'll see 1 degree. I eyeball round parts in the milling machine all the time and never do I put the guage on it and have it out 2 degrees from square. Rarely more than 1.

While I think they would be cool, I can't immagine actually taking the time to look at it. Just my opinion.

6 Degrees is a LOT.
 
Phil,
1 minute on a clock face, or 6 degrees is pretty easy to be off with a **** poor frame of reference in the field, especially in the mountains. I'm sure I've been off even more than that before. I have a pretty good eye for stuff like that too, but without a frame of referance one is lost to a point.
 
Have them on some of my lighter match guns and bench mounted hunting guns for many years.

They are "especially" important to those shooting from uneven surfaces such as the ground with a bipod on their rifles.

Some members were making them at Willismport 20 years ago.

Later
DC
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YUp.. what Brent and DC said.. ever look through you scope to a hillside where it is outline.. what looks likea level reticle very seldom is! This is one of the least costly but most valuable items there is when shooting at distance..

4mesh , Minutes, Degrees.. not sure but a very minor cant.. will result in a very major miss..

6br and the rest .. the thing really doesn't stick out al the much, I have drug mine though everything and it still works reliabley everytime...

I mount mine so that it stick out on my left.. and if you shoot with both eyes open you can check and recheck at will... super easy to know if you're level al the time!!
 
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