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broad head and field point issues
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<blockquote data-quote="Fitz" data-source="post: 345716" data-attributes="member: 22058"><p>There is a lot of good information here. Matching your arrows/broadhead to your draw weight and pull is one of the most important parts. Most of the major companies have programs that will tell you what arrow you need. I use Aramid-KV by Carbon Express. I have found that they are the most durable and straightest manufacture. If you are using an arrow with too thin of a spine, it will flex when you release. On the other hand, if it is too stiff it will not have enough power behind it. Both of these would cause inaccuracy. Using broadheads with greater than 100 gr with your draw weight can cause your arrow to pull downwards when you shoot pass 30 yards. I use the 100gr Grim Reapers. They will tear the vitals up. Great blood trail and quick death. Also, you want to practice with what you are going to be hunting with. I have a set of broadheads that are set aside just for practice and as my hunting heads get dull I turn them into practice heads. You are also able to use rubber o-rings to maintain tightness and have your broadhead aerodynamically sound (the way the blades are angled). </p><p></p><p>Robin Hooding arrows gets very expensive. I would get a nice broadhead block with multiple targets on each side and only shoot once at each target. Its nice to know that you can group them and all, but the main thing to practice is getting the vital area. I would also put up a treestand and practice from that. If 90% of your hits are within a 2" diameter circle, I wouldn't be worried about the 10% that hit outside of it. With arrows travel between 250-340 fps, a small gust of wind will throw you off at farther distances. </p><p></p><p>Angling the fletching will be more accurate as well. But, you have to have the right arrow rest for it. If you are using the whisker biscuits or octane's, the arrow will lose fps right of the bat by hitting the rest while trying to turn. You would want to get a drop-away rest. </p><p></p><p>I would go to a local archery store and/or talk to the hunters in your area. They will be able to suggest equipment that would better suited for your hunting style (ie carbon for deer and smaller or aluminum for bear/elk).</p><p></p><p>That's my .02 cents</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Fitz, post: 345716, member: 22058"] There is a lot of good information here. Matching your arrows/broadhead to your draw weight and pull is one of the most important parts. Most of the major companies have programs that will tell you what arrow you need. I use Aramid-KV by Carbon Express. I have found that they are the most durable and straightest manufacture. If you are using an arrow with too thin of a spine, it will flex when you release. On the other hand, if it is too stiff it will not have enough power behind it. Both of these would cause inaccuracy. Using broadheads with greater than 100 gr with your draw weight can cause your arrow to pull downwards when you shoot pass 30 yards. I use the 100gr Grim Reapers. They will tear the vitals up. Great blood trail and quick death. Also, you want to practice with what you are going to be hunting with. I have a set of broadheads that are set aside just for practice and as my hunting heads get dull I turn them into practice heads. You are also able to use rubber o-rings to maintain tightness and have your broadhead aerodynamically sound (the way the blades are angled). Robin Hooding arrows gets very expensive. I would get a nice broadhead block with multiple targets on each side and only shoot once at each target. Its nice to know that you can group them and all, but the main thing to practice is getting the vital area. I would also put up a treestand and practice from that. If 90% of your hits are within a 2" diameter circle, I wouldn't be worried about the 10% that hit outside of it. With arrows travel between 250-340 fps, a small gust of wind will throw you off at farther distances. Angling the fletching will be more accurate as well. But, you have to have the right arrow rest for it. If you are using the whisker biscuits or octane's, the arrow will lose fps right of the bat by hitting the rest while trying to turn. You would want to get a drop-away rest. I would go to a local archery store and/or talk to the hunters in your area. They will be able to suggest equipment that would better suited for your hunting style (ie carbon for deer and smaller or aluminum for bear/elk). That's my .02 cents [/QUOTE]
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