Best method to measure headspace?

[Jim’s Hunt]

I've run into a few issues using my LE Wilson case gauges. With my 243 and 6.5 Swede, the cases fit into the gauge, but the bolt is slightly heavy to close. I had used once fired brass that were used in each rifle and full length sized each one, then trimmed, so I was confused on the issue. I had relied exclusively on the Wilson to measure my shoulder bump. I'm not sure if the slight pressure required to close the bolt is an issue, but I digress.

I want to get it right the first time. I am starting to load for my 7 rem mag. I bought some new Norma brass, and this time, I chambered it in my rifle and the bolt closes as it should. Should I just prime and charge? Should I neck size? I cant imagine that a FL resize is warranted.

Any help on the the bolt close issue and/or advice on new brass prep is appreciated. Thank you!

My theory on a case gauge is your chamber in your rifle. I turn down my die until I get a case that chamber smoothly. I don't like a lot of cam over so if it comes to that I have .010 trimmed of of my die. My opinion

 

[Mikecr]

I fully fire form, with nothing but neck sizing, until the brass has run out of headspace.
This usually takes 3-4 firings (depending on shoulder angle).
Then I strip the bolt, chamber, bump, repeat, until the bolt handle just drops with a whisper of resistance.
That is my zero HS, which I measure with a gizzy/caliper and log.
It's from there that I set my sizing die to shoulder bump 1-1.5thou. I always measure every case I reload to see this bump is right.

My 'gizzy' is usually a barrel stub with a shoulder & neck cut from my reamer when the barrel was finished.
You can buy them as standard & caliper attachments I guess, but I would never rely on anything based off SAAMI for reloading..
That would be different than My chambers attached to MY actions.

 

[pointy sticks]

I have been using a Larry Willis head space gauge for the last few years. Best I have tried so far. This combined with the stripping the bolt method seems to work the best for me.

 

[PutInOut]

Here's how I got my shoulder bump/headspace set:

 

[skinny pedal]

small base die.

 

[David_h]

For precision work it would seem that a manufacturer could step up and offer reloading press and dies with fine thread rather than the 17 tpi in the current standard. Heck; I could even use my same press and retrofit it for fine thread.

 

[PutInOut]

For precision work it would seem that a manufacturer could step up and offer reloading press and dies with fine thread rather than the 17 tpi in the current standard. Heck; I could even use my same press and retrofit it for fine thread.

I think the current thread is 14 tpi, and it seems to take for ever to thread them into my press; now a fine thread would be endless.

 

[Stretch_TX]

These videos may help clarify a few points..
On Alex Wheeler's website, you'll see several videos.
Scroll down a bit and take a look at the one called "Sizing Brass".
Another which may come in handy is called "Finding Your Lands".

Videos | wheeleraccuracy

www.wheeleraccuracy.com

In my opinion, Alex knows a thing or two most/all of these issues.
He is VERY generous in sharing his experience and wisdom.

 

[Mike D Texas]

If you are going to use a comparator set, spend the $$ and get a set from SAC. They are much more repeatable IME with using those as well as the Hornady and Whidden sets.

 

[Phil Rizzo]

If you are going to use a comparator set, spend the $$ and get a set from SAC. They are much more repeatable IME with using those as well as the Hornady and Whidden sets.

If you use Hornady, use the exact same comparator each time.
Not same size, same exact bump gauge.

 

[PutInOut]

You mean those labeled A,B,C'D?

 

[Phil Rizzo]

I don't know that mine have letters on them or not.?
I look at the 3 digit decimal, but each set of my dies has a set of gauges inside with finger screws.

 

[QuietTexan]

You mean those labeled A,B,C'D?

Yes, each separate Hornady comparator body is labeled with a letter then three digits. The letter is just a code for quick reference, the numbers are notionally the size of the hole in thousandths.

But what Phil is saying (I think, tell me if I'm wrong buddy ) is you need to use the same body each time - don't ever substitute a new "A" body for an old "A" body. Hornady has a history of making oblong holes and two different comparator bodies with the same stamp on them will potentially take different measurements if the holes are even slightly different sizes. If you take the chamber measurements with one and set up the die with another, the difference between the two bodies will get baked in to your die setting and you won't be doing what you think you're doing.

Same logic behind why each of my die sets has a shellholder in the box with the dies - they're set on one particular press, with one particular shell holder, and I use the same pairing every time so as not to introduce a new variable. At this point I own at least a dozen #1s if not two dozen, because that way I always use the one that was used to set up that particular set of dies. I don't use the same #1 for 308, 30-06, 243, etc.

 

[Phil Rizzo]

that's correct, Tex.
And as the saying goes, "don't ask me how i know"