Best die set for reloading the 25-06/bergers? I need help!

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by hmbleservant, Jul 13, 2011.

  1. hmbleservant

    hmbleservant Well-Known Member

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    Forster
    Hornady
    L.E. Wilson
    Lee
    Lyman
    RCBS
    Redding

    So many to choose from! I have no experience loading rifle cartridges (just some handgun ammo). I want to load some 115 bergers. I'm going for accuracy. I want to work up an accurate load and stick with it. I enjoy the shooting more than the reloading.

    Can yall at least narrow my options down a little...which are the proven performers?

    Also...what do i need 2,3 or 4 die set? I heard that once i fire them once all i need is to size the end of the neck because I will have shaped the brass to my rifle perfectly. So which dies do I need?

    Thanks!
     
  2. Trickymissfit

    Trickymissfit Well-Known Member

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    Jun 11, 2010
    first of all your probably not ready for Wilson dies, and I doubt you own an arbor press. Of all the ones you mentioned the Forster and Redding are at the top of the heap. Just buy a basic two die set for starters as neck sizing is not the place to get your feet wet. The Hornadays are OK, but I hate the way you adjust them. The RCBS is fine, but the first two are better. Lee's are about the same as RCBS, and both of them need a better seater. I like Lyman hand gun dies, but not impressed with their rifle dies. The Forster set will be cheaper than the Redding if that matters much, and their full length die is better in my opinion. Their seaters are both good (note: here you may have to get another seater stem for the Berger bullets [actually all of them]).
    gary
     

  3. trebark

    trebark Well-Known Member

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    Forster and Redding, they are your go-to brands.

    Neck size or not to neck size...for my two rifles, I can neck size only and it works just fine. My other rifle (a 300RUM) the brass needs to be full-length resized every time. So it's up to you...get a neck size die and/or a full-length sizing die.

    In terms of the bullet seater, the compeition dies are really nice. they have a diel at the top so you can make fine adjustments to seating depth and "know" how far you have adjusted rather than doing it by trial and error.

    So to sum it up....

    Necksize die
    full-length size die
    competition seating die
     
  4. BigSkyGP

    BigSkyGP Well-Known Member

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    Nov 12, 2010
    One important thing I learned from this site. Adjust full length dies, so they just move the shoulder of the brass back 0.003-0.006 depending, but never more than 0.006. Your brass will last longer.
     
  5. hmbleservant

    hmbleservant Well-Known Member

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    I appreciate all the responses everyone. I'm a little confused about one thing though. Why is it a bad idea to only resize the neck? Why not leave the shoulder alone? Just askin...i don't know any better. Thanks!
     
  6. fj40mojo

    fj40mojo Well-Known Member

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    Jul 25, 2009
    Eventually you are going to have to full length size. Neck sizing alone will not work forever. Sooner or later your brass is going to grow to the point that the bolt won't close. Nobody mentioned another option and that is the Redding Full Length Bushing die. It can be purchased in a set with a Competition Seater. This sizer will allow you to full length size with minimum shoulder bump while precisely controlling neck tension. Advantage IMHO in sizing to guarantee consistent easy feeding, precise neck tension/bullet release and you get the fancy Comp seater with micrometer thimble adjustment. Down side-EXPENSIVE. Buy once-cry once.

    Redding Type S Match Full Length Die Set, 25-06 Rem - Sinclair Intl
     
  7. Trickymissfit

    Trickymissfit Well-Known Member

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    I've looked at the setup in the past, and nearly bought the die. But had a couple friends that didn't like it, yet had a couple others that did. Seems that there was some shoulder run out when checked at the gauge line (note: I never did check the cases, but also knew the fellows knew what they were doing). Acted like the bushing might have been moving under pressure. I've never seen that with a standard Redding or Forster bushing die (or any Wilson I own, but then again they never touch the shoulder). Yet it could have been in the presses they were using. I always bump the shoulders with a body die from Redding or one that I've built out of an existing die. Add to this the fact that the bump die from Redding is about $32. One of these days I'm going to build a gauge to check shoulder runout using a chamber type case holder. Remember the case headspaces off that shoulder
    gary
     
  8. boomtube

    boomtube Well-Known Member

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