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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Bedding; before, after and lessons learned
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<blockquote data-quote="devildoc" data-source="post: 171488" data-attributes="member: 5615"><p>No offense taken, I appreciate the advice, guess I didn't really explain everything I did very well. </p><p></p><p>I totally agree with you on the factory stock thing, after pulling the thing apart I can't imagine how I ever managed to get a 1MOA group out of the thing. </p><p></p><p>I think next time I'll do some things differently, I by no means think I did a "professional" job this time around. But, I didn't really expect to, and as you said, I was pretty sure I couldn't make things any worse by trying, unless I glued stuff together that didn't belong that way. After I get some more experience I may try to bed the tang area. </p><p></p><p>I'm pretty sure that the action is relatively stress free, I didn't tighten the action bolts down during bedding, just hand snug. Next time I may make some stockmaker's bolts and just tape things down with electrical tape. I also plan to spend alot more time masking things down. I had to spend quite a bit of time scraping epoxy off the top edge of the barrel channel this time, I hit it with release agent, but It would have been a whole lot faster if I would have masked it and cut the edge with an x-acto knife. I will definately use at least 3 or 4 layers of tape on the barrel channel if I ever have to bed another barrel channel. And finally, I'll always make and put a good deal more epoxy in than I think I need, It's much easier to throw away a little epoxy than have to try and fill all the little voids you leave when you don't use enough. </p><p></p><p>Why would more tape be needed under the lug? I would expect that the lug wouldn't heat up very much or very fast, as long as it's not making contact I would think it would be fine.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="devildoc, post: 171488, member: 5615"] No offense taken, I appreciate the advice, guess I didn't really explain everything I did very well. I totally agree with you on the factory stock thing, after pulling the thing apart I can't imagine how I ever managed to get a 1MOA group out of the thing. I think next time I'll do some things differently, I by no means think I did a "professional" job this time around. But, I didn't really expect to, and as you said, I was pretty sure I couldn't make things any worse by trying, unless I glued stuff together that didn't belong that way. After I get some more experience I may try to bed the tang area. I'm pretty sure that the action is relatively stress free, I didn't tighten the action bolts down during bedding, just hand snug. Next time I may make some stockmaker's bolts and just tape things down with electrical tape. I also plan to spend alot more time masking things down. I had to spend quite a bit of time scraping epoxy off the top edge of the barrel channel this time, I hit it with release agent, but It would have been a whole lot faster if I would have masked it and cut the edge with an x-acto knife. I will definately use at least 3 or 4 layers of tape on the barrel channel if I ever have to bed another barrel channel. And finally, I'll always make and put a good deal more epoxy in than I think I need, It's much easier to throw away a little epoxy than have to try and fill all the little voids you leave when you don't use enough. Why would more tape be needed under the lug? I would expect that the lug wouldn't heat up very much or very fast, as long as it's not making contact I would think it would be fine. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Bedding; before, after and lessons learned
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