Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Hunting
Bear Hunting
bear point of aim?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Akbushape" data-source="post: 265585" data-attributes="member: 14672"><p>Cowboy, I'm talking centered on the shoulder, not trying to hit the little shoulder bone that sets to the front of the shoulder. If you're aiming center shoulder you have the heart and lungs very close together as well as the possibility of breaking either shoulder if you are off a bit. Most of the time, unless they are lieing down, a bear is moving. You usually do not have a lot of time for benchrest accuracy and to precisely place a shot. If you did and was capable of it then a shot in the neck near the atlas joint would produce an</p><p>instant kill. This is not a realistic goal the vast majority of the time. Under</p><p>real life conditions a centered shoulder shot is reccomended by most bear</p><p>guides. </p><p>I have taken or assisted in the taking of over 400 black bear and around 125</p><p>brown/grizzly bear over the years. Sometimes a black bear will fall to a 30-30, a 243 or some such, making them seem easily killed. Other times I have seen them be unbelievably hard to put down. On one I found a piece of the bears lung lieing on a log where he was first hit with a 7mm RM. We trailed that bear for 6 hours and never saw him agian. I suspect he was hit to far back and just clipped the tip of the lung, but will never know.</p><p>As I said earlier the 444 marlin is an acceptable gun at close range but I would not reccomend it at even 100 yards as being a good black bear gun. The big</p><p>slow bullets pack a lot of knock-down power but lack the penetration needed</p><p>to punch through a good sized bear. You get up into the 300 lb range or larger and you should have a faster bullet. I'd rather see something like the</p><p>7MM RM or 300 WM on the bigger black bears.</p><p>Another thing, when a bear goes down, quickly reload and get the scope back on him and watch him. No high-fiving and celebrating until you know positive he is dead. Cover him and wait and watch. If he starts to get up, or is moving like he still has a lot of life left, shoot again. </p><p>A good bullet with a spire point that will mushroom well and still retain good</p><p>bullet weight is the best to use. I do not like partition bullets because you are</p><p>sure to lose the front portion immediately on impact, which greatly reduces bullet weight which greatly reduces penetration. Hollow points are not good</p><p>either as they will desenigrate to easily. A plain old core-lok spire point bullet</p><p>in 160 to 180 grain will perform well on black bear.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Akbushape, post: 265585, member: 14672"] Cowboy, I'm talking centered on the shoulder, not trying to hit the little shoulder bone that sets to the front of the shoulder. If you're aiming center shoulder you have the heart and lungs very close together as well as the possibility of breaking either shoulder if you are off a bit. Most of the time, unless they are lieing down, a bear is moving. You usually do not have a lot of time for benchrest accuracy and to precisely place a shot. If you did and was capable of it then a shot in the neck near the atlas joint would produce an instant kill. This is not a realistic goal the vast majority of the time. Under real life conditions a centered shoulder shot is reccomended by most bear guides. I have taken or assisted in the taking of over 400 black bear and around 125 brown/grizzly bear over the years. Sometimes a black bear will fall to a 30-30, a 243 or some such, making them seem easily killed. Other times I have seen them be unbelievably hard to put down. On one I found a piece of the bears lung lieing on a log where he was first hit with a 7mm RM. We trailed that bear for 6 hours and never saw him agian. I suspect he was hit to far back and just clipped the tip of the lung, but will never know. As I said earlier the 444 marlin is an acceptable gun at close range but I would not reccomend it at even 100 yards as being a good black bear gun. The big slow bullets pack a lot of knock-down power but lack the penetration needed to punch through a good sized bear. You get up into the 300 lb range or larger and you should have a faster bullet. I'd rather see something like the 7MM RM or 300 WM on the bigger black bears. Another thing, when a bear goes down, quickly reload and get the scope back on him and watch him. No high-fiving and celebrating until you know positive he is dead. Cover him and wait and watch. If he starts to get up, or is moving like he still has a lot of life left, shoot again. A good bullet with a spire point that will mushroom well and still retain good bullet weight is the best to use. I do not like partition bullets because you are sure to lose the front portion immediately on impact, which greatly reduces bullet weight which greatly reduces penetration. Hollow points are not good either as they will desenigrate to easily. A plain old core-lok spire point bullet in 160 to 180 grain will perform well on black bear. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Hunting
Bear Hunting
bear point of aim?
Top