What kind of terrain are you hunting? how long do you typically walk while hunting? think of the most extreme that you do now. If it's flat and you walk to a tree stand no more than a mile weight is not that big of a deal, on the other hand if you climbing up and down mountains, covering 10 or more miles a day a heavy rifle sucks @$$.
+1!!!!!!
Just look at my signature, & you'll understand why my featherweight 270WSM is too dang heavy at times.
I'm almost dreading packing my Long action 300WSM build. It only has a Fluted 26" Hart 10 twist, #4 Douglas contour. It's plenty "packable" compared to some here, but I'm cringing at the thought of lugging that sucker around Hells Canyon this August....
If it even gets completed....
I'd consider
1- intended use, & expected velocities combined with case capacity, & intended powder,& bullet combo's.
2- Propper twist for intended bullet weights.
3- Taper, fluting etc. Hart won't flute anything under a #4 taper. Plus if you want a 26" pipe, they suggest a #4 taper or bigger. Longer means heavier taper, which means more weight. I flute mine for weight reduction, not vanity.
4- Weight, & balance! I added a brake to mine to finnish at 27+" that's a lot of weight hanging out front. Now if your strictly going prone, weight forward doesn't make it difficult to handle. However if you want to shoot off hand for some reason, it becomes a balance issue. Now you gotta use a heavy stock to counter a heavy barrel for balance so you can shoot off hand, but now it becomes too dang heavy to pack in the mountains......
There's always a trade off, so you've gotta find the right balance of what you want, vs what you can tolerate for your intended use. It's kinda like a dog chasing his tail till he's satisfied that's its still attached.... It's ever changing per individual, & individual build. There is no One right answer for everyone.
Plus the greater the space between the barrel and stock the better.
