Barrel, what do I need to think of before ordering my custom build

Discussion in 'Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics' started by leoestby, Jul 17, 2012.

  1. leoestby

    leoestby New Member

    Jul 16, 2012
    Hi, im planing my long range hunting rifle, and need some input on my barrel. The caliber is 7WSM and stock is Mcmillan HTG adj. I'm shooting with suppressor on.

    My gunsmith has Krieger SS 1:9twist with maximum 28" lenght and 1,2" in diameter.

    What length and barrel contour would you rec for this set up before it's not hunting friendly....?

    I will use either A max 162grs or Berger 180grs Hunting VLD with H4831SC or R22? Any rec for chamber spec's?
  2. Edd

    Edd Well-Known Member

    Jan 26, 2011
    Personal preference has a lot to do with choices. I think anything smaller than a Remington varmint contour looks out of place in a HTG stock. For a hunting rifle to carry, an adjustable HTG and a varmint barrel would be on my "unfriendly" list.

  3. leoestby

    leoestby New Member

    Jul 16, 2012
    Why not HTG? ...and what else do you recomend?

    What about barrel and chamber spec's?
  4. royinidaho

    royinidaho Writers Guild

    Jan 20, 2004
    Depends on what the "all things considered" are.

    I've found that time between build start and build finish can be intolerable. If you are expecting to use the build this season, I'd go with the barrel your smith already has.

    28" is a good and acceptable length. Longer than that and you're bumping the muzzle against objects. With a suppressor length is a consideration when choosing velocity performance for long range.

    Also as far as looks go, the best look is what you see when you look at the group on paper.:) Plus the greater the space between the barrel and stock the better.:)
  5. Joe King

    Joe King Well-Known Member

    Apr 29, 2012

    What kind of terrain are you hunting? how long do you typically walk while hunting? think of the most extreme that you do now. If it's flat and you walk to a tree stand no more than a mile weight is not that big of a deal, on the other hand if you climbing up and down mountains, covering 10 or more miles a day a heavy rifle sucks @$$.
  6. winmag

    winmag Well-Known Member

    Dec 23, 2009
    Just look at my signature, & you'll understand why my featherweight 270WSM is too dang heavy at times.
    I'm almost dreading packing my Long action 300WSM build. It only has a Fluted 26" Hart 10 twist, #4 Douglas contour. It's plenty "packable" compared to some here, but I'm cringing at the thought of lugging that sucker around Hells Canyon this August....
    If it even gets completed....

    I'd consider
    1- intended use, & expected velocities combined with case capacity, & intended powder,& bullet combo's.
    2- Propper twist for intended bullet weights.
    3- Taper, fluting etc. Hart won't flute anything under a #4 taper. Plus if you want a 26" pipe, they suggest a #4 taper or bigger. Longer means heavier taper, which means more weight. I flute mine for weight reduction, not vanity.
    4- Weight, & balance! I added a brake to mine to finnish at 27+" that's a lot of weight hanging out front. Now if your strictly going prone, weight forward doesn't make it difficult to handle. However if you want to shoot off hand for some reason, it becomes a balance issue. Now you gotta use a heavy stock to counter a heavy barrel for balance so you can shoot off hand, but now it becomes too dang heavy to pack in the mountains......
    There's always a trade off, so you've gotta find the right balance of what you want, vs what you can tolerate for your intended use. It's kinda like a dog chasing his tail till he's satisfied that's its still attached.... It's ever changing per individual, & individual build. There is no One right answer for everyone.
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2012