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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
barrel question. Could a ss barrel be too hard to ream????
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<blockquote data-quote="Fiftydriver" data-source="post: 90604" data-attributes="member: 10"><p>Oldfamily,</p><p></p><p>Could we get a little more information about the reamer. I would assume its a live piloted reamer but want to make sure. If its a solid piloted reamer that has a pilot diameter to large for the bore, you will snap a reamer very easily as the neck of the reamer will be stressed before the body of the reamer engages the barrel fully.</p><p></p><p>Is your smith cutting a full cut with the finishing reamer or hogging most of the material out with a drill or roughing reamer first?</p><p></p><p>You should really only remove about 0.050" in diameter with a finishing reamer. Taking a full diameter cut with a finishing reamer is much harder on the reamer. It is very easy to have the reamer bite and either spin in the reamer holder or break.</p><p></p><p>Not saying your smith is doing anything wrong, it could just be several different things causing this. Like your doing the best thing to do is see what the the barrel maker says and then try to see if it is a reamer issue.</p><p></p><p>To answer your question though, stainless steel barrels should chamber very easily with a quality reamer and proper chambering techniques. As already mentioned, Chrome Moly steel is much harder then stainless.</p><p></p><p>Kirby Allen(50)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Fiftydriver, post: 90604, member: 10"] Oldfamily, Could we get a little more information about the reamer. I would assume its a live piloted reamer but want to make sure. If its a solid piloted reamer that has a pilot diameter to large for the bore, you will snap a reamer very easily as the neck of the reamer will be stressed before the body of the reamer engages the barrel fully. Is your smith cutting a full cut with the finishing reamer or hogging most of the material out with a drill or roughing reamer first? You should really only remove about 0.050" in diameter with a finishing reamer. Taking a full diameter cut with a finishing reamer is much harder on the reamer. It is very easy to have the reamer bite and either spin in the reamer holder or break. Not saying your smith is doing anything wrong, it could just be several different things causing this. Like your doing the best thing to do is see what the the barrel maker says and then try to see if it is a reamer issue. To answer your question though, stainless steel barrels should chamber very easily with a quality reamer and proper chambering techniques. As already mentioned, Chrome Moly steel is much harder then stainless. Kirby Allen(50) [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
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barrel question. Could a ss barrel be too hard to ream????
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