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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Barrel cleaning ,what am I doing wrong
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<blockquote data-quote="Fitch" data-source="post: 404889" data-attributes="member: 19372"><p>After reading this article <a href="http://www.6mmbr.com/borecleaning.html" target="_blank">Bore Cleaning Method</a> a few years ago I pretty much clean in two steps, now and then going to step 3: <ol> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">I get the carbon out. GM Top Engine Cleaner (it stinks but it sure works!), SLIP2000, or M-PRO7 with a few brush strokes and some soak time all work well for getting the carbon out and uncovering the copper. Chemicals take time to work.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Then I use BoreTech Eliminator to get rid of the copper and any remaining carbon.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Sometimes, if a bore is stubborn (has chatter marks in the grooves like my 1953 model 70) I finish up with an overnight soak using WipeOut foaming bore cleaner. I use Lucas rod guides so it's easy to plug the breech end to keep the foam in there - a Q-tip with a couple patches to make it bigger will plug the muzzle (at least up to .30 caliber, I don't have anything bigger).</li> </ol><p>There are other bore cleaning potions that will doubtless work but I haven't tried them. The key to success is giving the chemicals time to work while at the same time paying attention to any time limits suggested by the manufacturer of the chemical. Some copper removers should be used sparingly and not left in the bore for long. Others, like BoreTech, WipeOut, M-PRO7 for example, can be left in there for days although doing so isn't a good idea. Reading labels and warnings on the containers is a very good idea.</p><p> </p><p>Finally, mixing cleaners together is a bad idea. Modern cleaning solvents are relatively sophisticated combinations of chemicals that have been extensively tested to be sure they won't damage the bore. Mixing them together is venturing into the unknown and betting the bore on a completely untested combination of chemicals - nobody knows what will happen with that combination. I'm very careful to dry patch the bore till there is no trace of the solvent just used, then remove the bore guide and use a patch wrapped mop in the chamber to get rid of any remaining residue of one solvent before going to the next one. </p><p></p><p> </p><p>Fitch</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Fitch, post: 404889, member: 19372"] After reading this article [URL="http://www.6mmbr.com/borecleaning.html"]Bore Cleaning Method[/URL] a few years ago I pretty much clean in two steps, now and then going to step 3:[LIST=1] [*]I get the carbon out. GM Top Engine Cleaner (it stinks but it sure works!), SLIP2000, or M-PRO7 with a few brush strokes and some soak time all work well for getting the carbon out and uncovering the copper. Chemicals take time to work. [*]Then I use BoreTech Eliminator to get rid of the copper and any remaining carbon. [*]Sometimes, if a bore is stubborn (has chatter marks in the grooves like my 1953 model 70) I finish up with an overnight soak using WipeOut foaming bore cleaner. I use Lucas rod guides so it's easy to plug the breech end to keep the foam in there - a Q-tip with a couple patches to make it bigger will plug the muzzle (at least up to .30 caliber, I don't have anything bigger). [/LIST]There are other bore cleaning potions that will doubtless work but I haven't tried them. The key to success is giving the chemicals time to work while at the same time paying attention to any time limits suggested by the manufacturer of the chemical. Some copper removers should be used sparingly and not left in the bore for long. Others, like BoreTech, WipeOut, M-PRO7 for example, can be left in there for days although doing so isn't a good idea. Reading labels and warnings on the containers is a very good idea. Finally, mixing cleaners together is a bad idea. Modern cleaning solvents are relatively sophisticated combinations of chemicals that have been extensively tested to be sure they won't damage the bore. Mixing them together is venturing into the unknown and betting the bore on a completely untested combination of chemicals - nobody knows what will happen with that combination. I'm very careful to dry patch the bore till there is no trace of the solvent just used, then remove the bore guide and use a patch wrapped mop in the chamber to get rid of any remaining residue of one solvent before going to the next one. Fitch [/QUOTE]
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Barrel cleaning ,what am I doing wrong
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