Annealing Cases

3. Every four or five firings just throw all your brass away and buy new brass which will cost you maybe $150 plus all the time for brass prep.

This is what I used to do because I was intimidated by the process but there is no reason to be.
 
Concur! I used to be intimidated by the process too but after some research and practicing on throw away cases I found out how easy it was. I shoot a .257 Weatherby and at about $1.50 a case for Norma brass I am looking for anyway possible to keep them in service as long I can.
 
You guys make it sound easy enough and that was a great video(s) Bob, I think I will give it a whirl. Brass is getting expensive, especially on my 300 win. Thanks Guys
 
Chain

Just remember the basic rule - in a slightly darkened room -"dull red"- not bright red, not cherry red, not dripping melted brass - just barely "dull red".
 
I do not have any good method. After shaking out the water from each case I just let them air dry for a couple of days. It takes two or three times to shake out the water. The one thing not to do is put them wet into your tumbler with media. It cloggs up inside the cases and then you have to take a pick and pick it out.
 
The reason I am scared of ruining brass is, I am color blind. I see red differently than most people. I am still going to give it a whirl though.
 
Chain- this may not be the best way to do it, (it's how I do it so I know it's not the best), but this method won't require you to see color. I heat them for about 4 seconds. That timing corresponds to what I call the brass catching on fire. You can see it in BBs video and you'll see it when you do it. When it reaches the "stop" temperature a flame starts to form trailing the brass on the opposite side of the torch. The first time I annealed I used a templistick. The templistick melted when I reached this same condition. So I quit using it cause it's combersome. The 4-5 seconds and the flame corrsponded with the templistick melting. Hope that helps.
 
Drying the cases

I generally use low temperature in an oven.

You can also try really hot water for a final rinse and air drying.

If it's just a few I put them flash hole down on the air outlet of my dehumidifier in the safe for a while (being sure to not cover too many of the holes).

Some guys use compressed air (if they have it in a workshop).

Hairdryer will work in a pinch.

I always leave them overnight after any of these to make sure they are properly dry prior to loading them.
 
Thanks JMASON that's what I will do. Would a bath in isopropyl alcohol help in the drying out? After they are cool of course.
 
Thanks JMASON that's what I will do. Would a bath in isopropyl alcohol help in the drying out? After they are cool of course.
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I can't help you here. I just shake them out and put in a tray primer pocket up to air dry.
 
BB
thanks for the videos. Before annealing and turning the necks I had 1.5moa at 400yds. Today I shot again after annealing and turning the necks it shot almost 1moa tighter with the same powder charge. Having less than premium brass available for my 7wsm it sure did help.

chain
I am also color blind. You may not see the same color but you will see the contrast change as it heats up. I am sure I did not anneal exactly uniformly it was my first time doing it. I shot three different charges annealed and turned and without all brass was shot 5 previous times. The annealed and turned shot from .5moa to 1moa better than the other. It is worth trying


Brent
 
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