Michael Eichele
Well-Known Member
kraky,
You have illustrated to the "T" why my signature quote is what it is!
You have illustrated to the "T" why my signature quote is what it is!
Ahhhh, the differance a little neck tension makes.
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Michael Eichele
Well-Known Member
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Is this something that could make diffrence in factory riffle or do I need to have custom BR riffle to see diffrence?
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You never know what to expect with BR rifles or factory rifles. I have used concistent neck tension on factory rigs with excellent results. I just never played with them up and down.
One set of results might not work for all applications. Or any other for that matter. The best thing to do is try it and see. It is one more excuse to get you to the range!
Is this something that could make diffrence in factory riffle or do I need to have custom BR riffle to see diffrence?
[/ QUOTE ]
You never know what to expect with BR rifles or factory rifles. I have used concistent neck tension on factory rigs with excellent results. I just never played with them up and down.
One set of results might not work for all applications. Or any other for that matter. The best thing to do is try it and see. It is one more excuse to get you to the range!
maggragg
Active Member
i find this interesting. I´m planing to buy me an Tikka T3 Tactical and i´m trying what factors are most important in realoading for factory riffles like this.
It comes with sub MOA guarantee from factory soo it is quite accurate for factory riffle.
Maybe it´s worth it to buy dies with this options for reloading, want to get the most accuracy from the rifle of course
It comes with sub MOA guarantee from factory soo it is quite accurate for factory riffle.
Maybe it´s worth it to buy dies with this options for reloading, want to get the most accuracy from the rifle of course
Cooool, so I'm not the only one on here that uses (and believes in) the Lee collet neck sizing die? That dies just seems (to me) like the best design out there for achieving the end result that we're looking for doesn't it? Thanks!
G
Guest
Guest
From what you guys are describing this Lee Collet die is exactly what I have been looking for. I have a .25-06AI with a tight neck .282. This works out to a case neck thickness of .011 if I have it figured right. I was just getting ready to order a set of Redding dies to reload for it but it looks like the Lee Collet die is the way to go but when I go to the web site it also looks like its a custom job so I need to fireform some cases first then send them two cases along with two bullets I intend to shoot. But it didn't say a thing about extra Mandrels. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
on the web site. This whole wildcat thing is beginning to drive me crazy /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Almost making me wish I had just bought the gun in standard .25-06 and forgot the wildcat idea. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif I already have about 100 cases with the necks turned down to .0105 to .011, kind of hard to get them exact and I also found that some were annealed better than others and that also made a differance in how I turned my case necks but I also found that the cases that were annealed the Forrester mandrel went in easier than it did on the ones that weren't. Thus telling me that the ID of the neck was bigger (probably from springing back durring resizing) than the ones that hadn't been annealed. Once I get a few fireformed I think I better start working on neck tension. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif That can be another matter.
on the web site. This whole wildcat thing is beginning to drive me crazy /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Almost making me wish I had just bought the gun in standard .25-06 and forgot the wildcat idea. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif I already have about 100 cases with the necks turned down to .0105 to .011, kind of hard to get them exact and I also found that some were annealed better than others and that also made a differance in how I turned my case necks but I also found that the cases that were annealed the Forrester mandrel went in easier than it did on the ones that weren't. Thus telling me that the ID of the neck was bigger (probably from springing back durring resizing) than the ones that hadn't been annealed. Once I get a few fireformed I think I better start working on neck tension. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif That can be another matter.
The lee collet die has enough room in the shoulder to accomidate the AI configuration. You just need the stock, 25-06 die.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=117878
http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=LEE90605
http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=LEE90711
http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=LEE90957
of course... these products are avalable from a number of sources as well...
As for the extra mandrels, just call their customer service(Lisa if memory serves me...), and tell them you want a couple of standard diameter manrdels, and a couple of undersized mandrels. Stock mandrels will usually net .001", undersized will get you .002", but a little polishing will get you any diameter you want. Chuck it in a drill, and polish with 600grit to the diameter, then finish with 1500 or 2000 and it will be super smooth.
If you don't have the stuff on hand you can send them here and ill do them for you gratis.
I usually do one at .001", .0015", .002", and .003". Occasionally ill order one larger... then polish it down to .0005", but thats usually only my tactic for soft seating VLDs... and even then, .001" usually does it.
Ill also occasionally snip the decapping pin from the mandrel to allow me to size primed brass... comes in handy when you want to experiment with different neck tensions loading at the range. Full prep on the brass, prime, and then size and seat at the range... it also lets em know if the primer pockets are too loose earlier in the batching process so I haven't invested a bunch of time trimming, chamfering, and otherwise processing cases that have bad primer pockets.
Oh, and one more thing... you can also use machine bushings between the shellholder and collet to controll the amount of the neck you want to size. Some like to do that loading... but it also comes in handy in removeing donuts from the neck... finding length for ogive contact to the lands... and a few others.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=117878
http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=LEE90605
http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=LEE90711
http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=LEE90957
of course... these products are avalable from a number of sources as well...
As for the extra mandrels, just call their customer service(Lisa if memory serves me...), and tell them you want a couple of standard diameter manrdels, and a couple of undersized mandrels. Stock mandrels will usually net .001", undersized will get you .002", but a little polishing will get you any diameter you want. Chuck it in a drill, and polish with 600grit to the diameter, then finish with 1500 or 2000 and it will be super smooth.
If you don't have the stuff on hand you can send them here and ill do them for you gratis.
I usually do one at .001", .0015", .002", and .003". Occasionally ill order one larger... then polish it down to .0005", but thats usually only my tactic for soft seating VLDs... and even then, .001" usually does it.
Ill also occasionally snip the decapping pin from the mandrel to allow me to size primed brass... comes in handy when you want to experiment with different neck tensions loading at the range. Full prep on the brass, prime, and then size and seat at the range... it also lets em know if the primer pockets are too loose earlier in the batching process so I haven't invested a bunch of time trimming, chamfering, and otherwise processing cases that have bad primer pockets.
Oh, and one more thing... you can also use machine bushings between the shellholder and collet to controll the amount of the neck you want to size. Some like to do that loading... but it also comes in handy in removeing donuts from the neck... finding length for ogive contact to the lands... and a few others.
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I'd be curious to know what difference a further increase in neck tension would make
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Dosnt more tension on the neck start to become pointless after a point. The bullet will justs size the case to .002 to .003 any way.
I'd be curious to know what difference a further increase in neck tension would make
[/ QUOTE ]
Dosnt more tension on the neck start to become pointless after a point. The bullet will justs size the case to .002 to .003 any way.
Michael Eichele
Well-Known Member
I am sure it doesnt become pointless at some point, however I am sure at some point it will have a detrimental effect. Yes the bullet sizes the brass. That is the point. It will always size it to the same outside diamterer regardless of what the diameter is before you load it. It is how much you size the neck that will determine how much tension there will be on a loaded bullet.
There are no hard and fast rules here. I tried a differant powder with the 200 grain ACCUBOND and used the .004" that it loved so much with the other powder and accuracy was terrible. I tried .002 and presto. I got good accuracy again. So, what works with 1 combo wont work with another, even in the same rifle. This is where time and experimentation come in.
There are no hard and fast rules here. I tried a differant powder with the 200 grain ACCUBOND and used the .004" that it loved so much with the other powder and accuracy was terrible. I tried .002 and presto. I got good accuracy again. So, what works with 1 combo wont work with another, even in the same rifle. This is where time and experimentation come in.
