After ringing steel, then what?

JimFromAZ

Active Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2022
Messages
38
Location
Arizona
I've taken a couple long-range shooting courses in the past year and have joined a local range (Cowtown in north Phoenix, AZ). The range has a 100 yard zeroing bay and a swath of desert with a bunch of steel targets ranging from 200 to just over 1,000 yards. Steel targets are not accessible to members. I'll start a range day zeroing my rifle at the 100 yard bay using paper targets, then move to the steel targets. I shoot a Tikka Tact A1 65CM with factory Federal GM 140gr SMK or Berger Hybrid (no comments from the Peanut Gallery please...unless you can't help yourself!). The goal is to build habit patterns and skills for long range shooting and eventually long range hunting (but maybe not with this rifle). Shooting prone, I feel somewhat confident in my ability to consistently hit various sized steel targets up to 600 or 700 yards. The problem is, I can make the steel ring, but I have no clue how accurate my shots are. I can typically guess where a shot hits by how the steel moves. But this is very different from what many of you do where you are able to repaint your steel targets or use paper targets long range to actually see the group size (precision) and POI (accuracy). With my range limitations, what should I focus on next? Should I start with the larger steel targets and then work to get consistent with smaller and smaller targets? I think some of the larger round targets are probably 36" and maybe the small round ones are down to 8", but I'll have to confirm this with the range officers. I guess I could go into the desert and set up my own long-range paper targets (many do this in the Queen Valley area east of Phoenix). I just feel that ringing steel gets me so far in my development, and I'd like to know what I should do to continue my development. I could participate in the local Arizona Precision Rifle club matches which might be good for practicing various shooting positions. Thoughts on all of this?
 
Shooting paper at distance isn't a whole lot of fun, lots of driving back and forth to mark off impacts when trying different loads etc. I do it from time to time mostly during load development and verifying a load and don't really enjoy it but sometimes feel it's needed.

Steel is a lot more fun, as long as they have targets that aren't overly big (your not learning much shooting a 36" plate at 700 yards if you can't see impacts) but if they go down to around 1-1.5 moa you will find out real quick if your dope is good and your ability's. Learn to measure with your reticle so you can better read your impacts and make corrections and also size the plates.
 
Shooting paper at distance isn't a whole lot of fun, lots of driving back and forth to mark off impacts when trying different loads etc. I do it from time to time mostly during load development and verifying a load and don't really enjoy it but sometimes feel it's needed.

Steel is a lot more fun, as long as they have targets that aren't overly big (your not learning much shooting a 36" plate at 700 yards if you can't see impacts) but if they go down to around 1-1.5 moa you will find out real quick if your dope is good and your ability's. Learn to measure with your reticle so you can better read your impacts and make corrections and also size the plates.
I like your idea of using targets that are 1 - 1.5 MOA in size. Makes sense! I've been working on Mil sizing (I use a Vortex Razor HD Gen II 4.5-27x56 and typically haven't used more than 10 power so far. Thanks!
 
First get a GOOD Spotting Scope. When shooting Steel, if you can and have access, PAINT dull white and put a red or yellow stripe horizontal in the middle of the steel target. You will be able to see your hits and judge the group size by the size of your steel target. As you get better you can start putting 4" square or round steel plates out 7-8-9-1K+ yds. If you are hitting a 4" plate at 1K you are doing good for hunting anything!
If you had some private land you could set up a "Shot Marker" made by Adam McDonnel and se your shots on a Tablet or phone. Sure save driving back and forth and don't even thing about walking back and forth.
 
I've taken a couple long-range shooting courses in the past year and have joined a local range (Cowtown in north Phoenix, AZ). The range has a 100 yard zeroing bay and a swath of desert with a bunch of steel targets ranging from 200 to just over 1,000 yards. Steel targets are not accessible to members. I'll start a range day zeroing my rifle at the 100 yard bay using paper targets, then move to the steel targets. I shoot a Tikka Tact A1 65CM with factory Federal GM 140gr SMK or Berger Hybrid (no comments from the Peanut Gallery please...unless you can't help yourself!). The goal is to build habit patterns and skills for long range shooting and eventually long range hunting (but maybe not with this rifle). Shooting prone, I feel somewhat confident in my ability to consistently hit various sized steel targets up to 600 or 700 yards. The problem is, I can make the steel ring, but I have no clue how accurate my shots are. I can typically guess where a shot hits by how the steel moves. But this is very different from what many of you do where you are able to repaint your steel targets or use paper targets long range to actually see the group size (precision) and POI (accuracy). With my range limitations, what should I focus on next? Should I start with the larger steel targets and then work to get consistent with smaller and smaller targets? I think some of the larger round targets are probably 36" and maybe the small round ones are down to 8", but I'll have to confirm this with the range officers. I guess I could go into the desert and set up my own long-range paper targets (many do this in the Queen Valley area east of Phoenix). I just feel that ringing steel gets me so far in my development, and I'd like to know what I should do to continue my development. I could participate in the local Arizona Precision Rifle club matches which might be good for practicing various shooting positions. Thoughts on all of this?

We use these up to 1200. Instant gratification. I can't speak for your chosen cartridge, but with 215 Bergers we lit this guy really well at 1200


 
I paint my steel so I see them impacts.
I agree that is preferred, but we cannot paint the steel targets on this range since only the range officer can go downrange during maintenance periods when range is cold. I'd need my own steel targets and a place to shoot them to be able to paint them.
 
First get a GOOD Spotting Scope. When shooting Steel, if you can and have access, PAINT dull white and put a red or yellow stripe horizontal in the middle of the steel target. You will be able to see your hits and judge the group size by the size of your steel target. As you get better you can start putting 4" square or round steel plates out 7-8-9-1K+ yds. If you are hitting a 4" plate at 1K you are doing good for hunting anything!
If you had some private land you could set up a "Shot Marker" made by Adam McDonnel and se your shots on a Tablet or phone. Sure save driving back and forth and don't even thing about walking back and forth.
I have to say, that ShotMarker is really cool! Never heard of it until now. You have some great suggestions...I just need a place, maybe the desert, to be able to paint my steel targets and/or set up a large framed target with the ShotMarker system installed. This is a great suggestion for my local range. Thanks!
 
We use these up to 1200. Instant gratification. I can't speak for your chosen cartridge, but with 215 Bergers we lit this guy really well at 1200


Interesting piece of tech. Probably helps during low light situations or when shooting lighter bullets that your eyes have a hard time telling if they hit the steel or not.
 
I agree that is preferred, but we cannot paint the steel targets on this range since only the range officer can go downrange during maintenance periods when range is cold. I'd need my own steel targets and a place to shoot them to be able to paint them.
That would indeed make things difficult. Perhaps filming them with a spotter phoneskope to review and observe where shots are impacting?
 
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