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Everybody like seeing photos of targets.
A2 sights on a muzzleloader?
- Thread starter redneckclimbing
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redneckclimbing
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I'll try to get some up, I don't have a smart phone anymore so it is a little more "involved".
redneckclimbing
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Here we go: Like I said
the 95gr (weight) group was 1.3" C to C,
the 90gr (weight) group was 2.9" C to C,
the 85gr (weight) group was 2.2" C to C
These were all shot with a scope on the gun to ensure more consistent holds, in CO we can not hunt with scopes on our guns.
Hopefully this week I can get the sights mounted to the gun and get a picture up of that.
the 95gr (weight) group was 1.3" C to C,
the 90gr (weight) group was 2.9" C to C,
the 85gr (weight) group was 2.2" C to C
These were all shot with a scope on the gun to ensure more consistent holds, in CO we can not hunt with scopes on our guns.
Hopefully this week I can get the sights mounted to the gun and get a picture up of that.
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redneckclimbing
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Here it is! Almost, This is what it will look like. I haven't permanently mounted the front sight on yet.
If anyone is interested I started with a CVA Optima that came with a scope base already attached (for working up loads).
I then ordered the weaver scope base without the integral rings. The front and rear sights are standard screw on AR-15 A2 sights. I cut the weaver base into two pieces. This will allow me to tap the front of the barrel with two screws to mount the smaller piece of rail and screw o the front sight.
Now some of the down sides if you are planning on trying this.
#1 Because of where the weaver base attaches (farther forward than an AR) in the rear you HAVE to have a sight with the CQB aperture, and use it. Otherwise you won't be able to properly align the front sight in the aperture.
#2 This makes the line of your eye a little higher than standard sights. I combated this by getting a "thumbhole" stock which has a slightly higher comb, and I will probably end up taping on about a .25" piece of foam to get a better cheek weld.
Those were the only two real problems I have seen so far. Having not shot it. My only other concern is that there will not be enough adjustment in the front sight base to get a 150yd "zero". I think that it will be fine but time will tell.
When I get the front sight mounted and get to shoot it I'll update everyone again.
If anyone is interested I started with a CVA Optima that came with a scope base already attached (for working up loads).
I then ordered the weaver scope base without the integral rings. The front and rear sights are standard screw on AR-15 A2 sights. I cut the weaver base into two pieces. This will allow me to tap the front of the barrel with two screws to mount the smaller piece of rail and screw o the front sight.
Now some of the down sides if you are planning on trying this.
#1 Because of where the weaver base attaches (farther forward than an AR) in the rear you HAVE to have a sight with the CQB aperture, and use it. Otherwise you won't be able to properly align the front sight in the aperture.
#2 This makes the line of your eye a little higher than standard sights. I combated this by getting a "thumbhole" stock which has a slightly higher comb, and I will probably end up taping on about a .25" piece of foam to get a better cheek weld.
Those were the only two real problems I have seen so far. Having not shot it. My only other concern is that there will not be enough adjustment in the front sight base to get a 150yd "zero". I think that it will be fine but time will tell.
When I get the front sight mounted and get to shoot it I'll update everyone again.
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redneckclimbing
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A little update for anyone interested. Since my last post, I've got the front sight mounted and managed to get the rifle zeroed. With the peep sights you see on it in the other picture.
The next step will be to see how many clicks it takes on the A2 rear sight to get out to 300 yds. (Any ideas / guesses?) As well as make sure I can maintain some degree of accuracy at that range.
I will update with a 300 yd target picture when I get a chance.
For anyone who is thinking of trying this. When trying to get a zero with the front sight I actually ran out of adjustment. I shimmed up the rear with some thin washers and then bedded it down with JB Weld. I also filed down the front sight to get some more adjustment out of it.
In retrospect I would shim the rear first and see where that got you. You do need to use the CQB peep because it is so far from your eye. I actually like that though, as it gives you a really big field of view.
From the rear of the stock to the rear sight is 16" and then the sight radius is 17.5". Again, in retrospect, I would probably make the sight radius between 16.5 - 17.0". Doesn't sound like much but if you play with it you will see it makes a pretty big difference.
There it is for what it's worth to anyone. Good luck to everyone this season!
The next step will be to see how many clicks it takes on the A2 rear sight to get out to 300 yds. (Any ideas / guesses?) As well as make sure I can maintain some degree of accuracy at that range.
I will update with a 300 yd target picture when I get a chance.
For anyone who is thinking of trying this. When trying to get a zero with the front sight I actually ran out of adjustment. I shimmed up the rear with some thin washers and then bedded it down with JB Weld. I also filed down the front sight to get some more adjustment out of it.
In retrospect I would shim the rear first and see where that got you. You do need to use the CQB peep because it is so far from your eye. I actually like that though, as it gives you a really big field of view.
From the rear of the stock to the rear sight is 16" and then the sight radius is 17.5". Again, in retrospect, I would probably make the sight radius between 16.5 - 17.0". Doesn't sound like much but if you play with it you will see it makes a pretty big difference.
There it is for what it's worth to anyone. Good luck to everyone this season!
redneckclimbing
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redneckclimbing
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Got out to 300 yds today! 301 to be exact, as you can see in the picture two of the shot are pretty confidence boosting and the third makes me realize I need to keep practicing. I would not have a problem admitting that the third shot was probably operator error. 
That's O.K., I will keep practicing with my "M4".
Having a thin front sight (.05") was vital. It will really allow you to split the target a lot better.
So anyways, here is a three shot group. I only had 6 shots with weighed charges. I used one, and some "field charges" to re-zero at 150. Then two more to get onto paper at 300. (They hit the plywood low and right off the paper). The last three were this group.
I don't know which shot was which but with my first shot the wind was coming left to right at about 4 mph at the 8 o'clock. By the time I got around to my second and third shots the wind had picked up to about 7-8 mph from the same direction so I gave it one click left on the sight.
All these were shot off a bi-pod and a rear bag. So, there it is, unless someone has a question about something?
That's O.K., I will keep practicing with my "M4".Having a thin front sight (.05") was vital. It will really allow you to split the target a lot better.
So anyways, here is a three shot group. I only had 6 shots with weighed charges. I used one, and some "field charges" to re-zero at 150. Then two more to get onto paper at 300. (They hit the plywood low and right off the paper). The last three were this group.
I don't know which shot was which but with my first shot the wind was coming left to right at about 4 mph at the 8 o'clock. By the time I got around to my second and third shots the wind had picked up to about 7-8 mph from the same direction so I gave it one click left on the sight.
All these were shot off a bi-pod and a rear bag. So, there it is, unless someone has a question about something?
