Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
A must have for every reloader
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="cdherman" data-source="post: 1384871" data-attributes="member: 12282"><p>^^ What he said is what I am saying too ^^</p><p></p><p>Barrelnut, do you remove the extractor when you are doing this? </p><p></p><p>When I used to use the slit case method, I was worried two issues, one being the obvious that the bullet is not well jammed onto the lands and/or would pull out upon extraction. Then I had to always try to create approximations using cleaning rods from the muzzle. Messy, inaccurate, as you have noted.</p><p></p><p>The other concern was that some of my guns have a bit of tolerance between the extractor claw and the bolt face. The ejector will then push the case forward until its seated against the shoulder, causing causing the bolt to start to close a little hard a few thousands early. At least in theory. But number one issue was the main problem.</p><p></p><p>But I will say -- your "Wheeler" method makes sense. Should work well, especially with a gun that is brand new and where one has no twice fired cases (for the new reader, do NOT assume that a once fired case has been fully stretched to reflect the complete headspace (bolt face to shoulder) of a given gun -- it takes a couple firings sometimes) The "Wheeler" approach should work really in conjunction with a Hornady BTO tool to get "close" and then a nice micrometer seating die to finish...... You would not need a fired cartridge -- Just grab any old heavy or light reject and use for your dummy......</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="cdherman, post: 1384871, member: 12282"] ^^ What he said is what I am saying too ^^ Barrelnut, do you remove the extractor when you are doing this? When I used to use the slit case method, I was worried two issues, one being the obvious that the bullet is not well jammed onto the lands and/or would pull out upon extraction. Then I had to always try to create approximations using cleaning rods from the muzzle. Messy, inaccurate, as you have noted. The other concern was that some of my guns have a bit of tolerance between the extractor claw and the bolt face. The ejector will then push the case forward until its seated against the shoulder, causing causing the bolt to start to close a little hard a few thousands early. At least in theory. But number one issue was the main problem. But I will say -- your "Wheeler" method makes sense. Should work well, especially with a gun that is brand new and where one has no twice fired cases (for the new reader, do NOT assume that a once fired case has been fully stretched to reflect the complete headspace (bolt face to shoulder) of a given gun -- it takes a couple firings sometimes) The "Wheeler" approach should work really in conjunction with a Hornady BTO tool to get "close" and then a nice micrometer seating die to finish...... You would not need a fired cartridge -- Just grab any old heavy or light reject and use for your dummy...... [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
A must have for every reloader
Top