7mm STW Brotherhood - For those who shoot the 7mm Shooting Times Westerner

I've been telling people to go to rl25 here for a while.
I'd work up to 81 slow with the 160 AB; I only use 82 grains with the 140 and it's full pressure. Nos. quotes 81 as top charge for the 140 in their book.

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind.

I think I'm going tomorrow morning. I'm still new to this, I've just been using my chrono for velocity numbers if too high and I look for if my bolt is hard to raise. Also I look at the primers to see if they are flatten.

What other kind of pressure signs should I look for?

Is there any type of gauge available to read the pressure?

Thanks!
 
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind.

I think I'm going tomorrow morning. I'm still new to this, I've just been using my chrono for velocity numbers if too high and I look for if my bolt is hard to raise. Also I look at the primers to see if they are flatten.

What other kind of pressure signs should I look for?

Is there any type of gauge available to read the pressure?

Thanks!
Read your primers They will tell when your getting close to going overboard
 
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind.

I think I'm going tomorrow morning. I'm still new to this, I've just been using my chrono for velocity numbers if too high and I look for if my bolt is hard to raise. Also I look at the primers to see if they are flatten.

What other kind of pressure signs should I look for?

Is there any type of gauge available to read the pressure?

Thanks!

game hawker, there are a number of things to watch and feel for. Primers are a obvious thing to watch, but sometimes they WON'T flatten, or bell out, but when you seat a new primer, you may notice that it fits a little sloppy. Stiff extraction is another obvious one, but also a bright shiny line around the brass above the belt, can be a sign as well. Any combo of those, and the gun is telling you , Whoa Bessy, slow down a little. Abbreviated brass life as compared to what you have been getting is also a sign, but then again, the brass we get now isn't as good as it was ten years ago either.
Most of all, you must throw common sense in the mix too. If you use a chrono, and you know it is accurate, and you are getting insane velocities," there's your sign"
I have read some of the load data the some guys are using, and there's no doubt in my mind, that someone here recently was using something that I'm sure was approaching or exceeding 70-75,000 psi !
Unfortunately, I don't think that there is a pressure sensor that we as hunters / shooters can afford. I have heard of there use, but I think that a modification has to be made to the barrel. I could be wrong, but I think that to be true. So, again, that is where the " common sense" thing comes in to play. I'd rather be a mile safe, then a inch sorry. Lots of loading manuals, compare all info,and talk to the " Brethren".
 
game hawker, there are a number of things to watch and feel for. Primers are a obvious thing to watch, but sometimes they WON'T flatten, or bell out, but when you seat a new primer, you may notice that it fits a little sloppy. Stiff extraction is another obvious one, but also a bright shiny line around the brass above the belt, can be a sign as well. Any combo of those, and the gun is telling you , Whoa Bessy, slow down a little. Abbreviated brass life as compared to what you have been getting is also a sign, but then again, the brass we get now isn't as good as it was ten years ago either.
Most of all, you must throw common sense in the mix too. If you use a chrono, and you know it is accurate, and you are getting insane velocities," there's your sign"
I have read some of the load data the some guys are using, and there's no doubt in my mind, that someone here recently was using something that I'm sure was approaching or exceeding 70-75,000 psi !
Unfortunately, I don't think that there is a pressure sensor that we as hunters / shooters can afford. I have heard of there use, but I think that a modification has to be made to the barrel. I could be wrong, but I think that to be true. So, again, that is where the " common sense" thing comes in to play. I'd rather be a mile safe, then a inch sorry. Lots of loading manuals, compare all info,and talk to the " Brethren".
I'll second that
 
game hawker, there are a number of things to watch and feel for. Primers are a obvious thing to watch, but sometimes they WON'T flatten, or bell out, but when you seat a new primer, you may notice that it fits a little sloppy. Stiff extraction is another obvious one, but also a bright shiny line around the brass above the belt, can be a sign as well. Any combo of those, and the gun is telling you , Whoa Bessy, slow down a little. Abbreviated brass life as compared to what you have been getting is also a sign, but then again, the brass we get now isn't as good as it was ten years ago either.
Most of all, you must throw common sense in the mix too. If you use a chrono, and you know it is accurate, and you are getting insane velocities," there's your sign"
I have read some of the load data the some guys are using, and there's no doubt in my mind, that someone here recently was using something that I'm sure was approaching or exceeding 70-75,000 psi !
Unfortunately, I don't think that there is a pressure sensor that we as hunters / shooters can afford. I have heard of there use, but I think that a modification has to be made to the barrel. I could be wrong, but I think that to be true. So, again, that is where the " common sense" thing comes in to play. I'd rather be a mile safe, then a inch sorry. Lots of loading manuals, compare all info,and talk to the " Brethren".

Thanks for the advice.

Do you think 3,300 fps velocity is too high for 160 Accubonds?

DoubleTap Factory Ammo for the 7mm STW in 160 Accubonds advertises 3,305 fps velocity.

Doubletap Ammo 7mm STW 160 Grain Nosler AccuBond Spitzer Box of 20
 
I have been monitoring and contributing to this post for quite some time. I see way too much concern, IMHO, about velocity. What we really need is accuracy. I used to shoot a lot of 1000 & 600 yard bench rest. I used a 6.5/284 Norma shooting a 142 gr. Sierra Match King @ 2850 fps. This load was supersonic well past 1000 yards. Accuracy was always sub. 1 MOA, usually much better if I was having a good day.

Anyway loading until you are blowing primer pockets, just does not compute to me ? The 7 STW has proven to be an extremely accurate cartridge for me. My goal is to get the most accurate load with a hunting bullet, shooting as few rounds as possible. A good barrel only has so many shots in it. I want to use this cartridge shooting big game. I have a lot of rifles that are way easier on barrels than my 7 STW.
Kreiger barrels are getting pretty hard to come by. 3100 fps with a 160 gr. Accubond is enough to make
real happy, especially when it is shooting 1/4 MOA at 400 yards.
 
I agree, the higher bc helps with down range velocity. It seems that most benchrest guys in almost any caliber are only looking for 2950-3100 for accuracy. How much more is really needed to take game ethically. Does another 150 fps really benefit for the number of shots you may take out there versus barrel life?
 
I have been monitoring and contributing to this post for quite some time. I see way too much concern, IMHO, about velocity. What we really need is accuracy. I used to shoot a lot of 1000 & 600 yard bench rest. I used a 6.5/284 Norma shooting a 142 gr. Sierra Match King @ 2850 fps. This load was supersonic well past 1000 yards. Accuracy was always sub. 1 MOA, usually much better if I was having a good day.

Anyway loading until you are blowing primer pockets, just does not compute to me ? The 7 STW has proven to be an extremely accurate cartridge for me. My goal is to get the most accurate load with a hunting bullet, shooting as few rounds as possible. A good barrel only has so many shots in it. I want to use this cartridge shooting big game. I have a lot of rifles that are way easier on barrels than my 7 STW.
Kreiger barrels are getting pretty hard to come by. 3100 fps with a 160 gr. Accubond is enough to make
real happy, especially when it is shooting 1/4 MOA at 400 yards.

I agree with your comments. I would like to have a good velocity but accuracy is more important to me too. And I guess if I'm not pushing the velocity, my barrel may last longer.

Would you care to share your load data of the 3,100 fps with a 160 gr. Accubond that is shooting 1/4 MOA at 400 yards?

Thanks!
 
If you want to measure the pressure of a gun, you will need to have strain gauges installed on it. Then you will need to setup to read and measure what they are reading. That can get expensive, as the computer setups are very specialized.

Also watch the cases too. Watch for any marks on them, as in shiny spots, new scratches, dings or dents, cracks, neck area.

On another note, hopefully I will get to shoot the new rifle next week. My friend should have his range open. He also says that I can't shoot :)

He don't know me very well. Well, I am not sure what the gun will like that I currently have, as my reloading stuff isn't setup yet. I am going to try some of my Federal 160gr Sierra loads first.
 
I guess I should add, the rifle is a custom build by Brett Evans, NW Armswerkes. Brett's rifles shoot really good !!!

Stiller Predator Action
Brux 7mm, 9 twist Stainless barrel
Bell & Carlson Stock
Swarovski Z5 3.5-18X with a ballistic turret
OAL is as long as I can load and still function through the magazine.
 
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