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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
7mm 110gr TTSX keyholing
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<blockquote data-quote="hawlejr" data-source="post: 2902767" data-attributes="member: 86290"><p>I suggest you Mic the bullets. I'll assume you don't have any doo-dads like muzzle brakes, suppressors, etc on the end of the barrel. I would suspect possibly wrong (like .270?) bullets. Try some regular bullets (lighter the better) with a light load similar to what you're using with the coppers. If they keyhole, then you've likely got a bad barrel. I had keyholeing problems with long .257 bullets in a .257 Weatherby which had the old 12" twist. I've never had those problems with short (for twist) bullets. Lately, I've been playing around with .22 Sabots in my 30-06. The longer .22 bullets (which probably need 1-8 or 1-7" twist, go through the paper sideways like your example with a 1-10" twist. The 45-50 grainers do ok if I really load them up causing the sabot to separate quickly just outside the muzzle.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="hawlejr, post: 2902767, member: 86290"] I suggest you Mic the bullets. I'll assume you don't have any doo-dads like muzzle brakes, suppressors, etc on the end of the barrel. I would suspect possibly wrong (like .270?) bullets. Try some regular bullets (lighter the better) with a light load similar to what you're using with the coppers. If they keyhole, then you've likely got a bad barrel. I had keyholeing problems with long .257 bullets in a .257 Weatherby which had the old 12" twist. I've never had those problems with short (for twist) bullets. Lately, I've been playing around with .22 Sabots in my 30-06. The longer .22 bullets (which probably need 1-8 or 1-7" twist, go through the paper sideways like your example with a 1-10" twist. The 45-50 grainers do ok if I really load them up causing the sabot to separate quickly just outside the muzzle. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
7mm 110gr TTSX keyholing
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