6.5 bullets
- Thread starter Pat B.
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Fiftydriver
Official LRH Sponsor
Pat B.
Wildcat Bullets is designing some very unique 6.5mm bullets for my 6.5mm Allen Magnum round.
They will use heavy jackets and bonded cores and their weights will be in the 150, 160 and 170 gr ranges. These are prelim weights and as more testing is done we will figure out exactly which we will use.
We are also looking at building a 160 to 165 gr ULD rebated boattail bullet.
The Bonded Core bullets may not be suitible for the smaller 6.5mm rounds as the very heavy jackets will shoot the best in big high performance rounds that will force the bullet bases to bump up properly.
The ULD bullet should work fine if you have enough twist which will probably be 1-8" at least in the 6.5-284. They just designed a 145 gr ULD for the 257 Allen Magnum with a B.C. of .738 from initial testing. The 160 to 165 gr ULD in 6.5mm will be in the .800 range for B.C.!!
Contact Richard Graves at Wildcat Bullets and tell him what your looking for and he will give you all the information he has on extreme range target and hunting bullets.
[email protected]
Richard makes a 142 gr ULD Rebated Boattail with a B.C. right at .700
They do have a 0.060" longer baring surface so you will need to seat this much deeper in the case which is generally not a problem especially if you turn your necks and use a donut removing inside neck reamer along with the outside turner.
Good Shooting!!
Kirby Allen(50)
Wildcat Bullets is designing some very unique 6.5mm bullets for my 6.5mm Allen Magnum round.
They will use heavy jackets and bonded cores and their weights will be in the 150, 160 and 170 gr ranges. These are prelim weights and as more testing is done we will figure out exactly which we will use.
We are also looking at building a 160 to 165 gr ULD rebated boattail bullet.
The Bonded Core bullets may not be suitible for the smaller 6.5mm rounds as the very heavy jackets will shoot the best in big high performance rounds that will force the bullet bases to bump up properly.
The ULD bullet should work fine if you have enough twist which will probably be 1-8" at least in the 6.5-284. They just designed a 145 gr ULD for the 257 Allen Magnum with a B.C. of .738 from initial testing. The 160 to 165 gr ULD in 6.5mm will be in the .800 range for B.C.!!
Contact Richard Graves at Wildcat Bullets and tell him what your looking for and he will give you all the information he has on extreme range target and hunting bullets.
[email protected]
Richard makes a 142 gr ULD Rebated Boattail with a B.C. right at .700
They do have a 0.060" longer baring surface so you will need to seat this much deeper in the case which is generally not a problem especially if you turn your necks and use a donut removing inside neck reamer along with the outside turner.
Good Shooting!!
Kirby Allen(50)
for deer there is nothing wrong with the 142smk-i have even used then on elk with good success[although i think there are better choices for bullets in the 6.5 for for elk].as far as varmints go -if u dont care about hides the 142smk will level them.the amax is also a good choice,but do to the thinner jackets be prepared for more meat destruction if you hit them in the shoulders-my 2-dave
sscoyote
Well-Known Member
I just shot 2 coyotes just last week with my XP 6.5-284, and the bullet was quite destructive-- even slightly beyond 400 yds.--this @ a mv of around 2700 fps.
Mysticplayer
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2001
- Messages
- 1,459
Been having really good success with the 140gr SST. I would expect them to fit a 142grMK throat as they are longer then the 142MK. Have had no problem shooting these at 1/4MOA or better from a hunting rifle.
JustC, surprised that you have made the Amax work but not the SST. My rifles shoot them both equally well. I have found the SST like to be close to the lands or at least fully engraved before leaving the case neck.
I use H4831SC and they really respond when loads get at or near max. My 6.5-06 loads are very toasty but groups are small and consistent. Using CCI BR2 primers if that helps.
Just started playing with the 150gr SST in a 270 Savage 110. Max load with H4831SC drops them into 1/4" groups at 100yds. Looking forward to launching further out to see how they respond.
For both rifles, the groups shrank the hotter the loads got. I hope that will get your rifle shooting SST's because they are a great bullet. The 140gr SST has a BC that is certainly much higher then print.
Jerry
JustC, surprised that you have made the Amax work but not the SST. My rifles shoot them both equally well. I have found the SST like to be close to the lands or at least fully engraved before leaving the case neck.
I use H4831SC and they really respond when loads get at or near max. My 6.5-06 loads are very toasty but groups are small and consistent. Using CCI BR2 primers if that helps.
Just started playing with the 150gr SST in a 270 Savage 110. Max load with H4831SC drops them into 1/4" groups at 100yds. Looking forward to launching further out to see how they respond.
For both rifles, the groups shrank the hotter the loads got. I hope that will get your rifle shooting SST's because they are a great bullet. The 140gr SST has a BC that is certainly much higher then print.
Jerry
Jerry,..I am suprised as well. I don't plan on giving up though
I wish that hornady would neglect to include the cannelure on the SST's
By fully engraved,..I assume you don't mean into the lands do you? I usually start right at the lands and work from there. That variable hasn't been changed yet in testing.
By fully engraved,..I assume you don't mean into the lands do you? I usually start right at the lands and work from there. That variable hasn't been changed yet in testing.
dgr416
Well-Known Member
Where do you get the 150 gr VLD and 160 Gr bullets?I have been using 155 gr lapula bullets in my 264 win mag with good luch.I shot two pronghorn does in Mt it hammered them at 375 yards.I shot a 250 8 pointer at 40 yards it did a good job no bloodshot!I might try the 155 grs on caribou next year.
Varmint Hunter
Well-Known Member
FiftyDriver,
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR> They do have a 0.060" longer baring surface so you will need to seat this much deeper in the case which is generally not a problem especially if you turn your necks and use a donut removing inside neck reamer along with the outside turner. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
If case necks are expanded on the appropiate mandral and then neck turned why would you need to ream cases to remove the donuts? Wouldn't the dounuts be pushed to the outside (during the expansion phase) where the turner blade cuts them off as you neck turn?
That is what I have always believed.
I have never reamed case necks believing that this could lead to creating inconsistencies rather than eliminating them. It is also a pain in the neck.
VH
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR> They do have a 0.060" longer baring surface so you will need to seat this much deeper in the case which is generally not a problem especially if you turn your necks and use a donut removing inside neck reamer along with the outside turner. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
If case necks are expanded on the appropiate mandral and then neck turned why would you need to ream cases to remove the donuts? Wouldn't the dounuts be pushed to the outside (during the expansion phase) where the turner blade cuts them off as you neck turn?
That is what I have always believed.
I have never reamed case necks believing that this could lead to creating inconsistencies rather than eliminating them. It is also a pain in the neck.
VH
Fiftydriver
Official LRH Sponsor
VH,
Some of my customers feel this donut will result in inconsistant gas flow through the case neck. THey are more technical then I am but I do see some use in removing this donut.
This is mainly with wildcats that need to be necked down from what I have seen. I also do not like to have a two diameter neck if you will because they seem to work harden faster for some reason.
Also, in a tight or min neck chamber, if a donut is present it can grow in thickness with the more firing on the case. On the initial firing things may have plenty of bullet release, onthe secon and third and fourth, you may get a situation where the case neck can not fully release the bullet and pressures will change as a result and your POI will also shift slightly.
In factory chambers or looser fit necks, this probably makes no difference at all but in my tight necks I have seen this.
In fact the first time I noticed it was with my 6mm-284. I turn my necks to 0.0015" under chamber neck diameter on a loaded round and after a couple firings, you could not slip a bullet throught the mouth of a fired case. It woudl slide freely intil it hit the donut and then could not be pushed down any more.
I started reaming along with turning at the same time and this took care of the problem.
Yes if you use a mandrel properly, it will push most of the donut thickness to the outside of the neck where the turning cutter can clean it off but it also lifts the portion of the neck ahead of the donut up as well which will result in an inconsistant neck thickness comparing the neck thickness from the mouth to the neck/shoulder junction. IT will be slightly thinned just ahead of where the donut was.
This occurs to a higher degree with cases that have been fired a few times and are work hardened a bit but when turned as virgin brass this is not a huge deal but it does happen.
As a machinist I know that when you move material out of position from one location, it often take some degree of the material around it to a different location as well.
I just prefer to remove it where it is originally so that no other material will be displaced in the expanding process/
maybe a silly theory but it has worked for me so far.
Good Shooting!!!
Kirby Allen(50)
Some of my customers feel this donut will result in inconsistant gas flow through the case neck. THey are more technical then I am but I do see some use in removing this donut.
This is mainly with wildcats that need to be necked down from what I have seen. I also do not like to have a two diameter neck if you will because they seem to work harden faster for some reason.
Also, in a tight or min neck chamber, if a donut is present it can grow in thickness with the more firing on the case. On the initial firing things may have plenty of bullet release, onthe secon and third and fourth, you may get a situation where the case neck can not fully release the bullet and pressures will change as a result and your POI will also shift slightly.
In factory chambers or looser fit necks, this probably makes no difference at all but in my tight necks I have seen this.
In fact the first time I noticed it was with my 6mm-284. I turn my necks to 0.0015" under chamber neck diameter on a loaded round and after a couple firings, you could not slip a bullet throught the mouth of a fired case. It woudl slide freely intil it hit the donut and then could not be pushed down any more.
I started reaming along with turning at the same time and this took care of the problem.
Yes if you use a mandrel properly, it will push most of the donut thickness to the outside of the neck where the turning cutter can clean it off but it also lifts the portion of the neck ahead of the donut up as well which will result in an inconsistant neck thickness comparing the neck thickness from the mouth to the neck/shoulder junction. IT will be slightly thinned just ahead of where the donut was.
This occurs to a higher degree with cases that have been fired a few times and are work hardened a bit but when turned as virgin brass this is not a huge deal but it does happen.
As a machinist I know that when you move material out of position from one location, it often take some degree of the material around it to a different location as well.
I just prefer to remove it where it is originally so that no other material will be displaced in the expanding process/
maybe a silly theory but it has worked for me so far.
Good Shooting!!!
Kirby Allen(50)
Varmint Hunter
Well-Known Member
Another question;
When you ream a neck; is this done before or after resizing the neck?
VH
When you ream a neck; is this done before or after resizing the neck?
VH
Fiftydriver
Official LRH Sponsor
VH,
IT is after sizing with the proper bushing in the Redding Comp Die. I neck them down to provide 0.001" under reamer size so that the reamer only takes off 0.0005" off the inside at most. With normal brass spring back, the inside diameter is generally nearly identical to the reaming mandral. Only thing that is cut is the donut and the reamer just acts as support for the outside cutter for the majority of the cut.
If oyu think about it, we are doing the same thing only on the opposite side of the neck.
Good Shooting!!
Kirby Allen(50)
IT is after sizing with the proper bushing in the Redding Comp Die. I neck them down to provide 0.001" under reamer size so that the reamer only takes off 0.0005" off the inside at most. With normal brass spring back, the inside diameter is generally nearly identical to the reaming mandral. Only thing that is cut is the donut and the reamer just acts as support for the outside cutter for the majority of the cut.
If oyu think about it, we are doing the same thing only on the opposite side of the neck.
Good Shooting!!
Kirby Allen(50)
Brent
Well-Known Member
I think the 140 A-Max would be my 1st choice.
Another note on expanding a neck to remove a doughnut with outside turning verses reaming; When you run a expander mandrel into the neck, the reinforced area at the neck/shoulder juncture will always resist expansion more than the rest of the neck above it will, and thus will still leave a doughnut on the inside. Slide a tight fitting mandrel inside an already expanded neck and you will feel the doughnut still exists. Reaming will eliminate them though. I use 0000 steel wool on a neck brush on the inside aferward to polish them, 4-5 round trips is all it takes though.
Another note on expanding a neck to remove a doughnut with outside turning verses reaming; When you run a expander mandrel into the neck, the reinforced area at the neck/shoulder juncture will always resist expansion more than the rest of the neck above it will, and thus will still leave a doughnut on the inside. Slide a tight fitting mandrel inside an already expanded neck and you will feel the doughnut still exists. Reaming will eliminate them though. I use 0000 steel wool on a neck brush on the inside aferward to polish them, 4-5 round trips is all it takes though.
