.28 Nosler Pressure

I see others are having problems too, thought I was going nuts, love my 28 Nosler, till ran out of R-33 , new batch is way to hot, went from 85 to 81gr. Lost 3-4 moa elevation at a mile, found some new R-33 again its a little better not much, 82gr with 195s and 84grs with 180s, half a grain more and extractor marks again, finally got it to shoot again but have not had a chance to try long range yet. When I first got it she was idling 3000 with 195s and 3100 with 180s then it sped up after break in to 3125 with 195s same load till ran out of my first batch of powder. Now my cousins giving me crap cause hes pushing his 7 mag. right up close to my 28. Im nuts about keeping my guns clean. Don't know if I like nosler brass much, doesn't seem to last anywhere as long as Lapua brass on my other guns. Got a lot a money in this gun, very frustrating . Im no expert so its hard to understand whats going on , why lots of powder can be so different or even bullets , I have had lots of bullets be 5-25 thousands shorter in length , don't get that either , just to picky I guess.

Safe Shooting everyone,

Danny

When changing lots of powder ii is always good to drop a grain or two down and work back up to the velocity you had before.

If your friend is pushing a 7RM to 28N velocities he is way over pressured. Just because he is getting away with this does not mean it is safe.

Norma brass is not Lapua. As far as consistencies and quality they are equal but Lapua brass is built to handle higher pressures. There is more material around the web area with the Lapua brass and this keeps the primer pockets tighter, longer. This thicker web area also decreases case capacity so keep that in mind.
 
Did you trim your brass between loadings? If brass gets too long this can happen. If you trimmed it, was it the same length as the new stuff that you didn't have problems with? Have you measured your chamber to find the max brass length for your gun?
 
I had this same thing happen to me on a 300 RUM using Nosler brass, RL33 and 230 Bergers. In virgin brass 96.0 grains gave me 3025 fps....I had to drop down to 91.5 in the same brass after it was once fired...full length resized w/ shoulder set back .0005". I am going to try annealing to see if that helps
 
Never been able to get back to same velocity with 2 new lots of powder as I was with the 1st lot. Ive trimmed and annealed and cleaned, I weigh every grain of powder and seat every bullet the same, finally got it to shoot again but its not braking 3000 anymore, I think my Cousins 7 mag is 2950 with 180s. Primer pockets get loose even after I back off till no extractor marks, even with light extr. marks the bolt opens easy. Tried Isso in front of chamber. New R-33 is dated 2015, just got it 2 weeks ago. Don't know if that matters. Oh oh , gotta go , its our 25th today. Thanks for the info.
 
Never been able to get back to same velocity with 2 new lots of powder as I was with the 1st lot. Ive trimmed and annealed and cleaned, I weigh every grain of powder and seat every bullet the same, finally got it to shoot again but its not braking 3000 anymore, I think my Cousins 7 mag is 2950 with 180s. Primer pockets get loose even after I back off till no extractor marks, even with light extr. marks the bolt opens easy. Tried Isso in front of chamber. New R-33 is dated 2015, just got it 2 weeks ago. Don't know if that matters. Oh oh , gotta go , its our 25th today. Thanks for the info.

What kinda of Chronograph are you using? Or did you get your velocity from your drop data? I had a chronograph that was starting to read velocities 100fps higher. When I did some drop data I realized the velocities were actually the same as before it was just my chronograph. I'm sure you ruled that out already but thought I'd share my experience. I'm still using that chronograph and it reads high on all my guns. I use it more for consistency and have always figured my velocity with my drop data.
 
What kinda of Chronograph are you using? Or did you get your velocity from your drop data? I had a chronograph that was starting to read velocities 100fps higher. When I did some drop data I realized the velocities were actually the same as before it was just my chronograph. I'm sure you ruled that out already but thought I'd share my experience. I'm still using that chronograph and it reads high on all my guns. I use it more for consistency and have always figured my velocity with my drop data.

I would check your OAL, jump measurements and seating die setting again to be sure. It may be that you are jamming them slightly which would increase pressures 5K or more.
 
All I have is an old Nightforce program, no smart phone either , Im 10 off the lands, using my data sheet, have changed nothing but new powder, had to back off on new powder, lost afew moa. We mess around practicing out to 2000 yds, so it just amazing to me how one minute your gun shoots so good , and depending on the wind, we can go out and be on target within 1-3 shots at 1900 yds, go to new powder, and everything changes, accuracy , moa, Took me awhile to get it back, still don't have the speed and have not had chance to see how it shoots at a mile. Im no expert at figuring this stuff out , Its hard for me to go from supreme confidence in my gun out to a mile and then have to start over again. I cant believe some guys are running 87 or 88grs R-33 and getting 31-3200 fps, Im clear down to 82 and have to back off another .5 gr more, finally shoots good again at 100 but still light extractor marks. my barrel is clean as a whistle . Primer pockets open up in one to three reloads, and Im no where near 3100fps which is why I bought this gun, to drive those 195s at 3100, Thanks for input.
 
All I have is an old Nightforce program, no smart phone either , Im 10 off the lands, using my data sheet, have changed nothing but new powder, had to back off on new powder, lost afew moa. We mess around practicing out to 2000 yds, so it just amazing to me how one minute your gun shoots so good , and depending on the wind, we can go out and be on target within 1-3 shots at 1900 yds, go to new powder, and everything changes, accuracy , moa, Took me awhile to get it back, still don't have the speed and have not had chance to see how it shoots at a mile. Im no expert at figuring this stuff out , Its hard for me to go from supreme confidence in my gun out to a mile and then have to start over again. I cant believe some guys are running 87 or 88grs R-33 and getting 31-3200 fps, Im clear down to 82 and have to back off another .5 gr more, finally shoots good again at 100 but still light extractor marks. my barrel is clean as a whistle . Primer pockets open up in one to three reloads, and Im no where near 3100fps which is why I bought this gun, to drive those 195s at 3100, Thanks for input.

Have you tried new virgin brass with your original load?
 
If you have never chrono'd your load then maybe you are having issues with your ES at distance. I would shoot your current load to its transonic distance - wherever 1340 fps is in your ballistic app - should be around 1900 yds and see what your vertical is there. Set up a sheet of plywood and measure vertical.

Without a measured velocity you are kind of poking and hoping. You spent good money on a rifle then spend good money on a chronograph. Anything other than a Oehler, Magnetospeed or Labradar and you will be wasting your money.
 
If you have never chrono'd your load then maybe you are having issues with your ES at distance. I would shoot your current load to its transonic distance - wherever 1340 fps is in your ballistic app - should be around 1900 yds and see what your vertical is there. Set up a sheet of plywood and measure vertical.

Without a measured velocity you are kind of poking and hoping. You spent good money on a rifle then spend good money on a chronograph. Anything other than a Oehler, Magnetospeed or Labradar and you will be wasting your money.

I am currently having this same issue with my 300 RUM using Nosler brass and RL33. I did verify a 180 fps velocity increase along with the noticeable pressure increase...verified by both a magnetospeed v3 and a digital pro chrono. It is either do to the ****** Nosler brass or RL33...except I never changed lots of powder.
 
Yes ,even with new brass,the new powder is way to much pressure. I noticed my head space varies too, set for 2 thousands start sizing, check some after a bit and they vary from 2-5 thousands .
 
I am also looking at having a custom gun built in a 28 Nosler, but these brass issues might make me change my mind.
Does anyone else besides Nosler make 28 Nosler brass? i have looked around on the web and have come up empty so far.
 
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