I have a 3 ring binder that I take notes in so I can remember what I did last time. That is where I also put my print outs so I have them for next time
Critique my Setup
- Thread starter Hikinghunter
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std7mag
Well-Known Member
Only things i would change/remove from your list.
Remove
1) bullet comparator.
2) headspace comparator.
3)OAL gauge.
Just getting started, use the KISS aproach. Keep It Simple Soldier!
As for chronograph, on a budget, i don't think you need the Garmin!
$500 is a LOT for a chrono on a budget.
A Shooting Chrony, Beta Master at $125 would do you just fine.
Just remember that your shooting OVER the chrono, not THROUGH the chrono!
I have a 3 ring binder that I take notes in so I can remember what I did last time. That is where I also put my print outs so I have them. I use a toothbrush or acid brush to sweep away any powder that I spill, I do that a lot and it gets into the hard to reach spots and stay there. That why I have the brush.
Oh I remember the days when I started reloading and didn't have a chrono or any fancy tech to help me or speed things up. Just a Lyman T mag, a beam scale and a table I made myself. I remember shooting at 100 yards and taking the most accurate load and not worrying about ES, neck tension or annealing. Verifying the drops out to 800 yards and trueing the velocity in my ballistics app to match up with the on paper drops. Still hitting a 10" plate at 800 yards unless you missed the wind call haha. Seems a lot like what I do now just $1,000's more spent on stuff that gets me to the same point I was at back then but a little faster lol.
Always remember what Phil Rizzo said,otherwise you will chase your tail for days,weeks or longer!
Your starting with more than I started with.In 1967 I started reloading for a 32 Winchester Special with a hand loader.After a few years of reloading 20 rounds at a time you will have the strongest hands among all your friends!
std7mag
Well-Known Member
Heck...
I started down this rabbit hole wanting to load my new to me Savage 111 in 7mm Rem Mag.
Had (still have) the Lee wack-a-mole loader.
Was doing reloads on the dining room table with the hammer.
That quickly stopped when my wife bought a new dining room set.
I sprung for the Lee 4 hole turret kit.
My wife sprung for the Harbor Freight work bench.
The top shelf is overflowing with dies set up on turrets.
Bottom shelf is overflowing with extra dies, brass, tools, holsters.
One shelving unit is overflowing with primers, powder and bullets.
A second shelving unit is overflowing with loaded ammo cases, extra scopes, extra dies, some miscellaneous rifle parts, and just accumulated junk.
I really need more shelf space!!
I started down this rabbit hole wanting to load my new to me Savage 111 in 7mm Rem Mag.
Had (still have) the Lee wack-a-mole loader.
Was doing reloads on the dining room table with the hammer.
That quickly stopped when my wife bought a new dining room set.
I sprung for the Lee 4 hole turret kit.
My wife sprung for the Harbor Freight work bench.
The top shelf is overflowing with dies set up on turrets.
Bottom shelf is overflowing with extra dies, brass, tools, holsters.
One shelving unit is overflowing with primers, powder and bullets.
A second shelving unit is overflowing with loaded ammo cases, extra scopes, extra dies, some miscellaneous rifle parts, and just accumulated junk.
I really need more shelf space!!
All I did is make notes in the manual. I upgraded to load data notebooks where I keep recipes and all info pertaining to said loads. Labels for smmo boxes and dated. I have no experience with 28nos on how it reacts. Keep track if your brass and make notes on signs of extractor, ejector and other base issues. Lots of good suggestions from previous post. Take what you need. Best to you and your journey!
Bang4theBuck
Well-Known Member
Need comparators for both headspace and bullet seating, a bullet puller, and something to anneal cases with. A plumbers torch tip and a 1lb can of propane (I like the yellow Mapp gas).
Everything else looks good. If you are just getting started, following the directions that come with the dies would seem to make sense, but leaves a lot of accuracy and case life on the table.
Similarly, seating bullets to a C.O.A.L. isn't really the best approach either. In the case of both type comparators, you are learning.much more about the process and how to control key things using these tools than simply stroking the brass in the dies. I think they are a much.
Annealing is a must as is it insures that all the work you put into properly sizing brass takes hold and minimizes spring-back when sizing.
Bullet puller is a must as it is the safest way to extract any rounds that you might suspect a possible problem with, and/or if you're doing pressure tests to find velocity nodes, it is best to have a safe means to pull bullets from cases that might have too much pressure.
Everything else looks good. If you are just getting started, following the directions that come with the dies would seem to make sense, but leaves a lot of accuracy and case life on the table.
Similarly, seating bullets to a C.O.A.L. isn't really the best approach either. In the case of both type comparators, you are learning.much more about the process and how to control key things using these tools than simply stroking the brass in the dies. I think they are a much.
Annealing is a must as is it insures that all the work you put into properly sizing brass takes hold and minimizes spring-back when sizing.
Bullet puller is a must as it is the safest way to extract any rounds that you might suspect a possible problem with, and/or if you're doing pressure tests to find velocity nodes, it is best to have a safe means to pull bullets from cases that might have too much pressure.
FireFlyFishing
Well-Known Member
I never said the OP needs to buy the entire list right away. He can refer back at his leisure.Only things i would change/remove from your list.
Remove
1) bullet comparator.
2) headspace comparator.
3)OAL gauge.
Just getting started, use the KISS aproach. Keep It Simple Soldier!
As for chronograph, on a budget, i don't think you need the Garmin!
$500 is a LOT for a chrono on a budget.
A Shooting Chrony, Beta Master at $125 would do you just fine.
Just remember that your shooting OVER the chrono, not THROUGH the chrono!
As far as the chronograph goes. I have three of them and none of them are a garmin or a lab radar. So…from my experience…just buy the best one now and don't waste time or beat your head against the wall. Ask me how I know.
M1A1ABRAMS
Well-Known Member
Exactly why I like the Sierra manual. You can add your notes to it at anytime. Just get yourself a hole punch.
This is obviously a topic of great passion here at LRH. There are plenty of lessons learned while embarking on this journey. The buy once and cry once phrase is often offered from experienced reloaders. It makes sense for those that immerse themselves in this hobby and are shooting competitions or attempting to squeeze another .1 MOA improvement out of their load. The law of diminishing returns definitely applies. The OP is just getting started and wants to stick to a budget. He needs to first determine if this is something he wants to pursue as a passion. There are things that we all wished we had done differently in hindsight.
Chronographs come to mind for me. Although the development of new entrants in the market with significantly improved offerings make buyers regret difficult to avoid. I have pulled my hair out with setup complications and inconsistent shot reading results with 3 different Chrono/radar platforms. Lost hundreds of $$ with ill-timed purchases. Now I finally have one that is simple and consistently does what it supposed to do. You can guess what I finally purchased.
Chronographs come to mind for me. Although the development of new entrants in the market with significantly improved offerings make buyers regret difficult to avoid. I have pulled my hair out with setup complications and inconsistent shot reading results with 3 different Chrono/radar platforms. Lost hundreds of $$ with ill-timed purchases. Now I finally have one that is simple and consistently does what it supposed to do. You can guess what I finally purchased.
FireFlyFishing
Well-Known Member
Well said. Time is money as they say…
Shane Lindsey
Well-Known Member
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Right on. Looks likea good bit to set you up. Don't need to spend all the $$$ on whizbang gear to get good results.
Only thing I would look to upgrade when able is your table set up. When sizing cases, sometimes the upstroke can be tough and want to move my table. I have to put my foot down on the beam to keep it from lifting on me. Just be prepared to put your hand down on it, especially if you have powder and such out or it can send it for a ride.
This has been with prepping a wildcat cartridge and brass prep is pretty stiff. But if using a standard full length dies for hunting it can be tight in the neck. If using bushing type dies only, this is not a problem.
Only thing I would look to upgrade when able is your table set up. When sizing cases, sometimes the upstroke can be tough and want to move my table. I have to put my foot down on the beam to keep it from lifting on me. Just be prepared to put your hand down on it, especially if you have powder and such out or it can send it for a ride.
This has been with prepping a wildcat cartridge and brass prep is pretty stiff. But if using a standard full length dies for hunting it can be tight in the neck. If using bushing type dies only, this is not a problem.
Great setup!
You can make extremely good rounds with that gear. I would add a mandrel setup and IMHO you're done.
Mine is similar, plus Whidden bushing set for measurements and a mandrel die. I can commonly achieve single digit SDs, and sub .5 MOA. BTW trickle and weight EVERY charge for the last 1/2 to 1 grain, don't count on the throw being accurate. Use good brass, Lapua or Peterson if they have your caliber.
In my 5 years of hand loading with several friends, my rounds are just as good, often better than their $5,000 setups… BUT mines a slow process. "Rounds produced per minute" is where the high end setups come into their own. I'm ok with 15-20 very good rounds p/hour.
I also prefer loading equipment that doesn't require electricity
Good luck, have fun
You can make extremely good rounds with that gear. I would add a mandrel setup and IMHO you're done.
Mine is similar, plus Whidden bushing set for measurements and a mandrel die. I can commonly achieve single digit SDs, and sub .5 MOA. BTW trickle and weight EVERY charge for the last 1/2 to 1 grain, don't count on the throw being accurate. Use good brass, Lapua or Peterson if they have your caliber.
In my 5 years of hand loading with several friends, my rounds are just as good, often better than their $5,000 setups… BUT mines a slow process. "Rounds produced per minute" is where the high end setups come into their own. I'm ok with 15-20 very good rounds p/hour.
I also prefer loading equipment that doesn't require electricity
Good luck, have fun
