Check my new die setup.. seem solid?

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by hawk45, Nov 24, 2010.

  1. hawk45

    hawk45 Well-Known Member

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    Been reloading for years but never took the time to try to tune any loads b/c time was always limited. Now I have some time and want to work on getting better reloads matched to my various rifles/calibers. I just got a new .223 thought about updating my old Lee Pacesetter set.. though they have been good dies, and still will use them for reloading for my AR/plinker.

    I got some new brass (Winchester), comparitors and chamer gauge. I'll measure the specs of the rifle to see it's max tolerances. Then setup my dies.

    Post 1st time fire-forming with genaric load, using universal decamper and tubling in media:

    1. Redding Body die (Use only when brass gets tight in chamber)

    2. Lee Collet Die (seems to work well and doesn't work the brass too much) and I can set the neck tension.

    3. Forester Ultra Seater die (being able to use the micrometer to visually adjust for ogive differences will be nice)

    Missing anything? Replace anything?
     
  2. Trickymissfit

    Trickymissfit Well-Known Member

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    Hope your going to have better luck with the Lee die than I did. I bought a .223 set as well as a 22-250 set and gave up on one while never even using the 22-250. I would spend the money and buy the Hornaday case gauge. It will save you a little time and money in the long run (I use a Stoneypoint). Also I recommend buying the K&M primer pocket reamer! It works with a Black & Decker electric screw driver. Also buy a good priming device (the Forster that anchors to a bench is nice and very accurate. I use a K&M and a Forster that's built into my press (works just like the one I discribed). One thing you can do on the cheap is to replace the die lock rings with steel Lyman rings. They don't flex! And lastly, buy yourself a good case trimmer (Forster makes a nice one that's very accurate). And speaking of case trimming; most guys deburr with the generic deburr tool. Buy yourself a tapered one from Hollands or better yet have your buddy find you a couple junk tapered pin reamers. These will set the case mouth up for loading those boat tailed bullets better than the generic one.
    gary
     

  3. hawk45

    hawk45 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks brother.. but I already have all the case prep stuff and have been doing that since the beginning (other than neck reaming). I just got into doing all the measurements with the chambers and bullets, steps I took for granted previously. I've been reloading for about 10 years.. mostly handgun.. but some rifle. Just looking to better my process as the Lee dies aren't bad.. but the full lenght sizer works the brass too much I think.. and a competition seater should be about the only other thing I need. Just wanted to make sure didn't miss anything else or better options. I wanted to keep things in the middle.. don't need custom dies or anything.
     
  4. flashhole

    flashhole Well-Known Member

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    You should be good to go. I have almost the identical combination of dies that I use for my 25-06.
     
  5. BigSkyGP

    BigSkyGP Well-Known Member

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    Reloaders=Load development Scientist.

    You have a Lab, measuring unstruments etc, raw materials (powder, primers, bullets, + brass), theories, range testing(paperwork/data recording), most times field testing(conclusion). Posting results for the rest of the scientific community, I mean reloaders.

    It's hard work, tedious, however most rewarding. Good luck, enjoy yourself. We're waiting.
     
  6. boomtube

    boomtube Well-Known Member

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    For common precision reloading dies, your choices are as good as it gets.

    Actually, all of our die makers provide excellant products so the worst it gets is quite good and the best it gets is only marginally "better". Your well chosen selection will do as well as possible with anything less than custom dies and even they wouldn't make much, if any, difference in your accuracy.

    Lee's neck die is not a conventional "push the case in, pull the case out" device. It has a moving part so there is a brief learning curve. That seems to cause some folks trouble but it's well worth taking the time to learn to use it.
     
  7. hawk45

    hawk45 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys! I think this is what I'm going to order along with the Redding Competition Shell Holders. Happy Holidays! I'll report back in a few months once I've had time to get everything ordered, setup and tested. See how much better my groups get.

    Hawk
     
  8. Trickymissfit

    Trickymissfit Well-Known Member

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    you really start to notice the difference when doing heavy case forming between the die sets. To be exact I see the main differences in the shoulder radi and concentricity
    gary
     
  9. boomtube

    boomtube Well-Known Member

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    "I think this is what I'm going to order along with the Redding Competition Shell Holders."

    Forget those shell holders. They are only a mindless crutch for those who either don't have a case length head-to-shoulder gage or don't know how to use it and properly adjust their sizer.
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2010
  10. hawk45

    hawk45 Well-Known Member

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    Noted... After I thought about it, that's why I got the micrometer seater so I could adjust there. That'll save me $50 a caliber I can put towards powder and lead.
     
  11. Trickymissfit

    Trickymissfit Well-Known Member

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    Amen! If you just have to make adjustments with shell holders, then instead order in a 7/8" milling machine arbor shim kit. (which you really don't need). Better yet just make up a small handfull out to .0075" out of plastic shim stock. The celaphene wrapper on a ciggarette pack is exactly .001" for starters.
    gary