Can primers reduce E.S.?

Thanks for the advice kennibear
I will keep this in mind as i start load development for a new round in a few months. I guess i never understood the variables that affect powder ignition.

Im having trouble finding match grade primers in town as of late but im gonna try to gather an assortment for my new wonder load and try to get it developed proper.
 
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That is also why Qload and other supposed super programs that claim to tell you everything beforehand are not accurate and reliable It is easy to take the data and reconfigure the program to replicate it, but hard to do up front and be really accurate...
BountyHunter,

I know you have useful knowledge but...

Why is it that you never miss a chance to blag off on technology?

Tools are tools and it's not the fault of the tool if the user are inept.

Did you have a failed experience with QuickLoad or some other tool and now feel it's your duty to disparage it at every opportunity?

As far as I'm concerned it makes you look like a whiner.
 
There are no primers that are better than others, just those that prove to work best for your action & load.
In fact you can affect this better/worse per primer used with striking adjustments.
This I believe is an unknown that makes best primer selection an abstract.

Well said about "best" primers being abstract. With one gun using an identical powder charge and bullets CCIs may work best, in another gun Win primers may work best. I usually just pick one primer and work the load using it. Only in benchrest guns do I ever do any testing by swapping primers.
 
Well said about "best" primers being abstract. With one gun using an identical powder charge and bullets CCIs may work best, in another gun Win primers may work best. I usually just pick one primer and work the load using it. Only in benchrest guns do I ever do any testing by swapping primers.

Do you work back up to your load with each new primer?
 
TBrice23

Have you tried CCI #41(?) military grade primers? They are are a magnum primer. Federal Match also deliver low SD's (usually).
Wolf makes all the Russian Olympic grade and Military/International match stuff for the ex-Soviet countries. Not a slouch operation but I have heard only garbage about their (and Tulla's) "green" products. Some of their 22LR stuff shows up pretty good.
I buy "Made in the USA" when ever I can. All the primers here in Western WA are the same price, even the Match stuff. Guess what I buy most?
 
Canadian Bushman

About working up your loads with a different primer.
Load 3-5 rounds same powder charge and new primer.
Shoot them over the Chronograph onto a target.
If the first round is abnormally higher (50-100fps) velocity than the original load STOP. The pressure may be higher and you need to check for all the usual signs (primer appearance, case head marks, stiff extraction etc.) of high pressure. If the velocity is the same or there are no signs of excess pressure shoot away and check your results.
Quick and easy test that conserves ammo. The first round will tell you a lot from the Chronograph reading.
 
TBrice23

Have you tried CCI #41(?) military grade primers? They are are a magnum primer. Federal Match also deliver low SD's (usually).
Wolf makes all the Russian Olympic grade and Military/International match stuff for the ex-Soviet countries. Not a slouch operation but I have heard only garbage about their (and Tulla's) "green" products. Some of their 22LR stuff shows up pretty good.
I buy "Made in the USA" when ever I can. All the primers here in Western WA are the same price, even the Match stuff. Guess what I buy most?

No I haven't tried them but I did read n article ( Seedy Gonzalez? I think) testing green primers . All thumbs down.
 
Canadian Bushman

About working up your loads with a different primer.
Load 3-5 rounds same powder charge and new primer.
Shoot them over the Chronograph onto a target.
If the first round is abnormally higher (50-100fps) velocity than the original load STOP. The pressure may be higher and you need to check for all the usual signs (primer appearance, case head marks, stiff extraction etc.) of high pressure. If the velocity is the same or there are no signs of excess pressure shoot away and check your results.
Quick and easy test that conserves ammo. The first round will tell you a lot from the Chronograph reading.

You do this with your current load?
 
Do you work back up to your load with each new primer?

With BR rifles, we do stupid stuff, so yes it is basically working up a load for each type of primer used. To be perfectly honest though, I am to the point that I do not think it is worth the effort. With longrange guns I never worry with ES anyway. I only look at vertical dispersion. If my ES is 40 or less and I am getting 1/4 MOA of vertical I go with it.
 
With BR rifles, we do stupid stuff, so yes it is basically working up a load for each type of primer used. To be perfectly honest though, I am to the point that I do not think it is worth the effort. With longrange guns I never worry with ES anyway. I only look at vertical dispersion. If my ES is 40 or less and I am getting 1/4 MOA of vertical I go with it.

This is where my questions source from. At 100-600 yds my groups are under .5 moa. Further than that my vertical dispersion puts me at 1 moa and i would like to understand why before i begin working up a new load.
 
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