Need some advice on a new rifle

6072mc
You are getting very good advice. If you bought a 1000 rounds of X brand of cartridge and it did not shoot well in your rifle what would you do? Reloading is not expensive in compairson to buying across the counter even in bulk. In addition you can taylor your load to "your" rifle. It seems complex but many here like myself have been loading for 40+ years and have excellent rusults with our ammo.
 
Just a side note but the 150 grain winchester silvertips out of the 300 wsm turn crows into RED MIST and a cloud of feathers @300 yards!
 
After all the replies in this thread I think now that I am leaning more towards the 300wsm. I think, untill today...

I did some bullet searching today and made a spreadsheet in excel on the trajectory of some factory produced ammo for the 300 WSM & 7mm WSM. I used Winchester and Corbon manufacturers' and using the provided details for the rounds I input them into Hornady's Ballistic calculator. 100 yard sight in, 1.5inch sight height, muzzel velocity (3010 for the 300wsm - 2850 for the 7mm wsm), 35 degree's, Barometric pressure 29.53, humidity (78%), and Ballistic Coefficient for each round.

300 wsm @ 180gr Winchester's E-Tip had a trajectory of -288.6 inches at 1000 yards
7mm wsm @ 180gr Corbon's Performance Match VLD had a trajectory of -251.3 inches at 1000 yards

That's 37.3 inches less elevation needed for the 7mm wsm from a factory produced bullet which is what I will be shooting for at least the first year. I won't ever need to go above 180gr's, so is the 7mm wsm the better choice since it has less bullet drop at a thousand yards? I'm just looking at the most bang for my buck or more specifically less drop at a thousand yards for a 180gr's?

PS.
Also How does handloading compare to these trajectories for both caliber's?
 
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I would guess that many more 1000 yard matches have been won by the 308 caliber than any other. But there are a lot more 30's out there so that info may be skewed.
Some one will post other info here for sure.
 
I don't know much bout the 7mm but I absolutely love my 300wsm! I've not gone out to a grand yet but will be giving it a try later in the year.....as of right now I'm shootin winchester 150 grain silvertips cause that's what I got for Christmas...so far I love it and,around here anyway,.308 bullets are easier to come by when I get my reloadin stuff set up....
 
300 wsm @ 180gr Winchester's E-Tip had a trajectory of -288.6 inches at 1000 yards
7mm wsm @ 180gr Corbon's Performance Match VLD had a trajectory of -251.3 inches at 1000 yards

That's 37.3 inches less elevation needed for the 7mm wsm from a factory produced bullet which is what I will be shooting for at least the first year. I won't ever need to go above 180gr's, so is the 7mm wsm the better choice since it has less bullet drop at a thousand yards? I'm just looking at the most bang for my buck or more specifically less drop at a thousand yards for a 180gr's?

PS.
Also How does handloading compare to these trajectories for both caliber's?

I understand what you are trying to do, but you can't compare 180 .308 w/ 180 7mm. To do a true comparison you need to use bullets with matching Ballistic Coefficients. In that case you need to compare the 180 7mm with a 210 .308.

Is the 7mm a better choice, well that is going to open a whole lot of debate. So here are my thoughts. The 7mm with a 180 Berger has been doing some phenomenal work on big and little critters at some pretty amazing ranges. However, these great feats of distant shots have been made by those with the ability to do so. Shot placement is the greatest factor between pellet guns and 22's, muzzle loaders and centerfires, cannon's and bombs. Being able to place the shot precisely where it is needed is the greater factor. So with that said, the .308 is going to retain more energy and velocity at a specified range with bullets having ballistic coefficients of equal or close to equal value. Now we are getting into physics which I know nothing about.... but is has something to do with weight x mass x velocity= desired results!:rolleyes: Well that's how I see it anyway.

Best bang for the buck with factory ammunition is going to be the exact opposite. The more buck, for the better bang. There are some great vendors out there with good bullet selections, it's a matter if your rifle will shoot it. What happens if you 7WSM doesn't like the Corbon load? It's a matter of trial and error. Either one is going to do the job you ask of it.

How does handloading improve trajectory? Because you can hand select components to optimize the caliber you wish to use. You can load higher grade bullets, you can run higher powder charges, slower or faster powders, to achieve the velocity you desire. You can take that same factory 180 .30 cal and speed it up. It may not quite match the 180 7mm, but you can improve it over factory. Your accuracy will be optimized. Would you rather wear underwear made of wool your Aunt Gertrude made you knowing it works and serves its purpose uncomfortably, or pick something out that you like and know that it fits you just right and feels good? I prefer picking my underwear!:cool:

Tank
 
I got too involved in looking at factory ballistics again I think and trying to min/max. I want the savage rifle (12 VLP back on page 2 of this thread) and savage doesn't offer a 7mm wsm in any model, so im staying with the 300 wsm.

Will make sure to post back once I get the rifle and let you all know how it goes. Thanks again for all your help.
 
You might want to reconsider the 6.5-284. It kicks a lot less than the .300 WSM and will kill anything on your menu at your stated range. Also, when you reload, the projectiles are cheaper and it uses less powder. Considering the choices available in the gun you want and the fact that you are asking newbie questions, the lower recoiling cartridge would be a good move.

Just my 2 cents.

Dan
 
6072mc said:
I got too involved in looking at factory ballistics again I think and trying to min/max. I want the savage rifle (12 VLP back on page 2 of this thread) and savage doesn't offer a 7mm wsm in any model, so im staying with the 300 wsm.

Will make sure to post back once I get the rifle and let you all know how it goes. Thanks again for all your help.

Mine? No, I just got it lol....but yes they are awsum rifles, I love it..and if I ever burn the barrel out, oh well ill just rebarrel it...right back to 300wsm....and with the model 12 its alil heavy for packing but don't talk much to get used to(12.8#) and recoil isn't much at all...alil muzzle rise but its not bad....was still able to watch splinters fly at 668 yards from a wood fence post...oh and that was with factory ammo from a factory bbl....
 
I got too involved in looking at factory ballistics again I think and trying to min/max. I want the savage rifle (12 VLP back on page 2 of this thread) and savage doesn't offer a 7mm wsm in any model, so im staying with the 300 wsm.

Will make sure to post back once I get the rifle and let you all know how it goes. Thanks again for all your help.

You could call the company and order a VLP with the 7mm WSM barrel if you really want it. They will do custom orders.

Tank
 
liltank said:
You could call the company and order a VLP with the 7mm WSM barrel if you really want it. They will do custom orders.

Tank

This is true, and its not much more money if I remember right....
 
Oh really... a customer order you say, you guys are killin me. So then what should it be... 6.5x284 , 7mm wsm , 300 wsm ?

If I am understanding this all correctly heavier bullets buck the wind better and have better ballistic coeffecients than lighter bullets, correct? causing them to have less windage adjustments but more elevation adjustments.

6.5x284 bullet ranges factory built are 120gr - 140gr.
7mm wsm bullet ranges factory built are 140 - 180gr.
300 wsm bullet ranges factory built are 140 - 180gr.

for windage that would make the 7mm wsm and 300 wsm better than the 6.5 for factory ammo, correct?

DZelenka,
I'm not concerned with recoil, I've shot big caliber's just never owned one and shot one a regular basis. I don't want recoil to be a deciding factor on the rifle I purchase. With all the things that can be used to reduce recoil I don't think limiting my caliber selection to low recoil rifle's is a good move for me.

Just about the time I settle on which one I should get you guys pop something new in on me that I didn't know about. What I need is someone who has personally shot all three of these caliber's at a thousand yards and knows for sure which of the three performs best for what I am wanting to do. Everyone keeps chiming in with what they think is best and causing me to lose my mind :D
 
thats all that is gunna happen, everyone has their own opinion on what is best, choose one gun you sacrafice velocity but gain knockdown power, choose another you gain velocity but lose knockdown power.. its all gunna boil down to what you want. they all can reach 1000 reliably, it just depends what caliber sounds best to you
 
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