Opinions on prefit barrels

What are everyone's thoughts of prefit barrels? After looking into it, seems an average dude can aquire a few tools and install a barrel and be shooting in much shorter time than having someone else do it? Are the prefit makers accurate enough? Is there anything else one would need more than a vise, action wrench, torque wrench, go/no go gauge and a barrel?
Been doing this for a while, something around 15 builds, and will keep doing it. Been an awesome journey for me.
 
I have two MCGOWAN prefits. One in a 280 rem for a 700 action and a 6mm Remington for a model 7. Both were installed by a local Smith. Both shoot great! Would not hesitate to do another.
 
Is there any option anyone knows of that one could rent an action wrench instead of buying them outright?
 
Is there any option anyone knows of that one could rent an action wrench instead of buying them outright?
If you're going to keep the action for future projects, you'll be better off buying. PVA sells them for $65 and SPR (Bughole) for $90.

If you are going to use it only for one-time, IIWY, I'll just have Dave do it, instead of renting. It will probably cost you the same.
 
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One more member here that uses the Tikka action with prefit barrels. My true LR rifles are big, heavy rifles based on custom actions with big, magnum cartridges, I will use them for hunting when terrain permits. Otherwise my LR mountain rifle(s) is based on the Tikka action. One action, one lightweight, custom stock, one scope and three different barrels. The prefit route is definitely more cost effective and saves money (estimate $300-400/carbon barrel).
 
Just depends on who is doing it. It also matters for what action. And if it's a custom action do they really have nominal headspace? What is the smith cutting the headspace to? And thread spec. The thing you should check immediately if you don't have a headspace gauge is brass growth. Some out there are just making up a number for headspace and saying it doesn't matter because Remington tan .01 of headspace and I can do that too. Everything is expensive now. Brass bullets components and your time. Getting prefits to save money may cost you $ and time in the long run. Not saying don't buy them. Just saying cheap isn't always good. Saving$ upfront can cost you more $ later. I will cut prefits for only the actions that have true nominal headspace. Lone Peak impact zermatt arms But anything that has more than .001 tolerance isn't nominal headspace. My opinion. Oh and Accuracy international they have nominal headspace.
 
I just put a shouldered prefit on myself. (On a tikka)

I used a:

Barrel vise
External action wrench
Internal action wrench
Go/no-go gauge
Torque wrench.

I did need a 3ft piece of pipe on the External action wrench to get the factory barrel off (leverage)

New barrel shoots great.
I just swapped barrels on a Tikka as well. We didn't have a torque wrench stout enough to measure the force required to remove the factory barrel, but I'm guessing it was 350lb-ft. Those suckers are ON THERE.
 
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Been shooting the prefits for the past three years. Three different calibers from three different barrel makers (Proof, Carbonsix & OM Rifles). I haven't run into any of the issues mentioned above. All are very accurate barrels. I also have a SS prefit 22 CM from PVA that uses the barrel nut system on a Savage. Again, great accuracy.
 
I just put a shouldered prefit on myself. (On a tikka)

I used a:

Barrel vise
External action wrench
Internal action wrench
Go/no-go gauge
Torque wrench.

I did need a 3ft piece of pipe on the External action wrench to get the factory barrel off (leverage)

New barrel shoots great.
I Chuck a Tikka barreled act in a lathe and use a parting to cut an .080" deep groove about .015 " from the action and it comes apart by hand. Won't fight anymore Tikka barrel with a 3 foot piece of pipei
 
I Chuck a Tikka barreled act in a lathe and use a parting to cut an .080" deep groove about .015 " from the action and it comes apart by hand. Won't fight anymore Tikka barrel with a 3 foot piece of pipei
Have you ever tried freezing & heat to remove the barrel instead of a pipe or lathe ? If you have a chest freezer this could be the way to go. There was a video showing how this was done on a 10/22. But I can't seem to find it. I had posted the video on a different thread a while back. But not sure if it's still there. I used to do this with prop shaft brass sleeve, bearings on boats, on install.
 

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