ntsqd
Well-Known Member
I know nothing about Axis', but if the barrel threads are the same then could you use an aftermarket Savage recoil lug on one?
You could probably use a standard Savage small shank recoil lug but it wouldn't sit in same place as where the axis recoil lug does. The standard recoil lug would end up being just in front of where the axis lug is because the bottom face of the axis action is slotted for it's lug. But you could pull the original lug from the stock and open up forward of it's opening and bed for the standard Savage lug.I know nothing about Axis', but if the barrel threads are the same then could you use an aftermarket Savage recoil lug on one?
Base coat is kryon fusion ultra flat camo khaki. With additional colors of fusion. Then cleared with krylon colormaster flat clear. Then webbed with Montana cans webbing paint. I do the webbing over the clear because if you clear over the webbing, it will take the textured feel away from the webbing and leave it less rough and grippy. When you do the webbing last it leaves a more rough finish and extra grip. I know rattle can paint jobs are considered amateur, but krylon fusion is pretty dang tough. It's the toughest rattle can paint I have found for stocks when cured for about 12 days. I've tried many types of rattle can paint and I'm staying with the fusion. It is actually as good or tougher than the factory paint on one of my B&C stocks. Paint schemes like this are extremely easy to touch up as well due to it's random pattern. Fusion is has worked really good for me on fiberglass, factory synthetic, & wood stocks. It is not the best on metal. I use two part epoxy paint (2k) on barrel, action or bottom metal.So tell us about your paint job, if you would! I kind of like it! Great job on the build.
Don't touch it up?! Leave it weathered AF!Base coat is kryon fusion ultra flat camo khaki. With additional colors of fusion. Then cleared with krylon colormaster flat clear. Then webbed with Montana cans webbing paint. I do the webbing over the clear because if you clear over the webbing, it will take the textured feel away from the webbing and leave it less rough and grippy. When you do the webbing last it leaves a more rough finish and extra grip. I know rattle can paint jobs are considered amateur, but krylon fusion is pretty dang tough. It's the toughest rattle can paint I have found for stocks when cured for about 12 days. I've tried many types of rattle can paint and I'm staying with the fusion. It is actually as good or tougher than the factory paint on one of my B&C stocks. Paint schemes like this are extremely easy to touch up as well due to it's random pattern. Fusion is has worked really good for me on fiberglass, factory synthetic, & wood stocks. It is not the best on metal. I use two part epoxy paint (2k) on barrel, action or bottom metal.
Yeah, I kinda like em roughed up a little.Don't touch it up?! Leave it weathered AF!