Is my trigger safe?

[nksmfamjp]

So, I read a couple things on here....first, lots of folks running 2oz - 2 lb triggers on here. Second, there are lots of DIY and professional gunsmiths on here.

So, I would like some help/discussion on a couple of questions:

1) When setting triggers, do you lock down settings? With locktite or epoxy?
2) How do you test for "jarring off"? What is your minimum acceptable level for a rifle carried with a chambered round?
3) What "user" level safety confirmations do you do after your knowledge of trigger work has been built? Do you confirm lock of settings? Safety function? Other?Do you share this with your customers?

I'll post my methods later, but am interested in others. I also want to be careful that this should not be "legal" advice, just a comparison of what folks do. Regardless of what is written, we all need to be clear that it is hard to read a post and know exactly what is being done....if that makes any sense.

 

[YZ-80]

From a layman's perspective, I think we're in a world where a lot of guys are adjusting their own and the industry has somewhat condoned that. Personally, I won't buy a production rifle unless it is user adjustable. That said, there are practical limits.

1) I follow manufacturers recommendations on how "low" I can set a trigger and set my own personal limit at 2.5 lbs., across the board. Would I give my 13 year old son a deer rifle with a trigger like that on a hunt - No. I've set his at 4. If the manufacturer does not call for lock tight, I don't use it.

2) I don't drop test because most manufacturers do not recommend it in their procedures.

3) I vigorously cycle the bolt after making adjustments to make sure I have not adjusted a trigger down into "slam fire" territory. I like at least a pound over minimum to make sure I have a reasonable "cushion".

I've fired guns with set triggers in the single digit ounce pull weights and they make me rather uncomfortable. There is a place for this but it's not in the field and outside of very controlled conditions, I think it's ill advised.

Just my .02. Good post, OP.

 

[BoomFlop]

I personally adjust my own with a gauge. I do not get carried away with hunting rifles and typically have all my rifles set around the 2lb 6oz - 2lb 12oz Range with an average of 10 pulls.

I do perform a bump test with the recoil pad just as an extra measure.

In the end, I typically do not chamber until ready and if I'm walking and need a round in the chamber (only when alone), I am careful and keep my muzzle pointed in a safe direction.

Steve

 

[J E Custom]

As do most, I think there are practical and safe limits to trigger weight.

For bench rest rifles that are stationary a few ounces to 6 or 7 ounces is fine.

For target rifles mainly for bench shooting/hunting where the rifle is semi stationary and the muzzle is always pointed down range, 8 ounces to 1.5 pounds will work well and still be relatively safe.

For hunting rifles that are carried and shot from different positions, I recommend 1.5 to 2.5 pounds
for all round performance. I also recommend using triggers that have a safety block/link that prevents the sear from releasing unless the trigger is pulled on hunting rifles that are set below 2 pounds.

For beginners and casual use by someone not to familiar with fire arm handling 4 pounds + would be my lowest recommended trigger pull weight.

If an adjustable trigger is used and you feel that a drop test is required, I feel it is to light. also I strongly recommend that "NO" one tamper with a non adjustable trigger or do anything to it. if you don't like the one that comes with the rifle, purchase a new adjustable one and have it set by the manufacture.

Quality adjustable triggers normally come with some type of trigger block and sear adjustments are normally factory preset and should never be adjusted.

J E CUSTOM

 

[26Reload]

I like my new trigger tech....one click on adjustment=one ounce of adjustment...
New rifle barked today....
100 yards....shots #18, 19 & 20..on far left....square is 1"...
Needless to say....i like it so far....
And hopefully time to come....

 

[nksmfamjp]

1) When setting triggers, do you lock down settings? With locktite or epoxy?
2) How do you test for "jarring off"? What is your minimum acceptable level for a rifle carried with a chambered round?
3) What "user" level safety confirmations do you do after your knowledge of trigger work has been built? Do you confirm lock of settings? Safety function? Other?Do you share this with your customers?

1) At first, no. I will use a trigger with a light thread compound or light torque on the nuts. Then when I'm done adjusting, I will carefully apply blue locktite. That locks small screws down well.

2) This is difficult, but I have a set of tests I do based on some use cases I have developed.....close action smartly 10 times; smack action on side with rubber mallet 3 times..dropping light mallet 3 times about 6". With action in stock drop 6" on butt pad 3 times; check all disconnect, connect, bolt remove, safety functions(lock up of action 100% if so designed); with safety engaged, action should be able to take severe impact from rear....tested with more severe mallet strikes to tang.

3) confirm all trigger and safety functions. Measure 10 pulls looking for abnormal pull weights or variation. Confirm safety locks up action or lifts striker off trigger on m70. I have no customers except me.

This is all roughly based on what it took stock rifles to jar off.

 

[lancetkenyon]

Guess I am in the minority. All of my rifles are hunting rifles. Most are shot by others at one time or another.

All my triggers are between 4oz to 10oz now. I have had them from 8oz to 1.5lbs, but have reduced them over the last couple years.

I always take the family member or friend out shooting prior to the hunt to get some trigger time.

We NEVER chamber a round until ready to shoot (or at least getting set up for the actual shot). Not even if we are sitting glassing or over a tank. And always remove the chambered round if the shot does not happen. Safety always stays on until right before the shot.

 

[CVCOBRA1]

4 oz on a hunting rifle????????

 

[aushunter1]

Yeh not sure 4oz on a hunting rifle is wise.
Sure off the bench.

I actually hunt
deer all the time
with a loaded bolt rifle(on safety of course), my shots are usually within 50-100yrds so if I was to chamber a round the game would be over.

After all, don't they say treat every rifle as if it is loaded anyway!

I now have a Browning BLR 300wsm as my main deer rifle, I can chamber a round & put the hammer into the closed & forward position & it is imo a bit safer than a bolt gun.

But still remembering it is a loaded rifle & should be always treated as so.

In saying that I still test all my triggers via the Wheeler digital pull gauge.

 

[bigngreen]

I set to manufacturer suggestions, I don't use triggers I can not set the seat engagement on had to many TT fire when just cycling the bolt. I lock the setting how the manufacturer recommends. I personally run 2 oz on bench gun, 8oz to 1 lb on all my personal hunting rifles.
I test all trigger installs with an aggressive bolt cycle multiple times, I've had two Remington handles come of during this test, safety on trigger pull and bumped around the taken of safe, I aggressively drop the rifle on its butt, bunch of bolt and safety cycles. I don't want a trigger job to ever wake me up at night thinking it wasn't quite right so I really try to force a failure before it leaves.

 

[nksmfamjp]

Guess I am in the minority. All of my rifles are hunting rifles. Most are shot by others at one time or another.

All my triggers are between 4oz to 10oz now. I have had them from 8oz to 1.5lbs, but have reduced them over the last couple years.

I always take the family member or friend out shooting prior to the hunt to get some trigger time.

We NEVER chamber a round until ready to shoot (or at least getting set up for the actual shot). Not even if we are sitting glassing or over a tank. And always remove the chambered round if the shot does not happen. Safety always stays on until right before the shot.

I can see 4oz trigger as a good thing, but how are you even sure it is safe to close the bolt, let alone drop it on a field rest....

 

[nksmfamjp]

...
I test all trigger installs with an aggressive bolt cycle multiple times, I've had two Remington handles come of during this test, safety on trigger pull and bumped around the taken of safe, I aggressively drop the rifle on its butt, bunch of bolt and safety cycles. I don't want a trigger job to ever wake me up at night thinking it wasn't quite right so I really try to force a failure before it leaves.

That's some aggressive action closing.

I assume rifle dropping is on its butt pad. How hard can you drop before it breaks the buttpad, breaks the stock or damages bedding? I have reduced my dropping as a don't want to destroy the rifle!

 

[lsm62]

Good info on here. I do not locktit my setting screws.

 

[lancetkenyon]

I can see 4oz trigger as a good thing, but how are you even sure it is safe to close the bolt, let alone drop it on a field rest....

Let me clarify. All my triggers are high end aftermarket triggers that are designed and spec'd out to safely be tuned down to the weights I run.

Timney Calvin Elite
TriggerTech Diamond
Bix N Andy Tac Sport Pro

My methods of testing are as follows:

Take trigger weight down with very small adjustments, while I run the bolt hard to check seer (slam fire) and add pull weight/seer adjustment accordingly.

Put on safety, pull the trigger firmly and then take off safety (had a few different older triggers fire when taking back off safety)

I bump on the but pad and bump the side some as well, but not like dropping it.

Food for thought: A safety is a mechanical device that can and will fail. The shooter is the end-all safety mechanism. Do not chamber a round until you are ready to fire, finger off the trigger outside of the trigger guard, muzzle control ALWAYS.