Ballistic change between different places?

Buy a G7 BR2500 Ballistic Rangefinder and you don't have to worry about it! Sight in your rifle, punch the data into the rangefinder and go hunt wherever you want. Pretty amazing. Its kind of spendy but if hunting and shooting is your thing its a pretty nice piece of equipment to have.
 
Buy a G7 BR2500 Ballistic Rangefinder and you don't have to worry about it! Sight in your rifle, punch the data into the rangefinder and go hunt wherever you want. Pretty amazing. Its kind of spendy but if hunting and shooting is your thing its a pretty nice piece of equipment to have.
And I have one also I love it
 
I live in South Florida and hunt in Georgia and W.VA. My zero is set in high heat and humidity. Hunting at elevation in W.VA of 3000 ft and @40 degree temps the change was minor for hunting, not enough for me to make any adjustments. With that being said, shooting sub moa at ranges out to 500 yards, you'd need to re-zero. But you're hunting, not punching paper targets or shooting small game/predators.

I did hunt Wyoming twice in the last 4 years with a Leupold CDS scope. I had turrets made to 4000ft elevation and 40 degree temps. Works with both W.VA and Wyoming and just about any other place I plan on hunting. I took an antelope at 487 yards and deer in the heat of Georgia without making any changes beyond 200 yards.

So download a ballistic calculator and check for yourself. Do a set of turrets that met all your hunting needs and leave it at that. Yuo can confirm the data the day before the hunt on the calculator like I did. The only thing that can really change the impact is all the factors you mention and then add steep angles, up or down, into the equation beyond 300 yards.

Save your money and goo luck!
 
I was waiting to see if anybody said anything about using a quality rangefinder, and finally someone did. I use the Zeiss RF binos and everything is built in- including weather! You just set up the ballistics for your sight in spot and you're good from there. Trying to use a bunch of cards seems counter productive to me, especially in a hunting situation. I range it, see what MOA the rangefinder gives me and either adjust if I have the time or use the reticle if I don't.
 
I gather info before my hunts.
Altitude within 500'AMSL (6500-7500', I use 7000')
Temp range and take median (5° to 35°, I use 20°)
I do not use turret tapes or custom turrets. I print a list and tape it to the scope. It has worked for shots out to 700+.
But, I still always try to range and have my ballistic app open with exact elevation/pressure and temps to verify when we have time.
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Just to show how little difference there is at 600 yards with a 300 Winmag, I cooked up these two extremes:

Nosler 180 grain Accubond
Sea level at 20*F, 2860 fps = 13 moa (3.8 mils)

Same bullet @ 10k ft. At 80*F, 2920 fps = 10.5 moa (3 mils)

So literally, you would need a 10,000ft elevation change in conjunction with a 60 degree temp change to get a 2.5 moa (.8 mil) change in trajectory at 600 yards.
 
2.5 MOA (or .8MIL) @ 600 yards is 15". A clean miss, or even worse, a wounded animal from a poor hit. I hunt anywhere from 700' to 9000'+. From -6° to 110°. 15" difference in drops is a no-go for me to only have one turret made.
 
2.5 MOA (or .8MIL) @ 600 yards is 15". A clean miss, or even worse, a wounded animal from a poor hit. I hunt anywhere from 700' to 9000'+. From -6° to 110°. 15" difference in drops is a no-go for me to only have one turret made.
You managed to completely miss the point I was making.
 
Not trying to be a smarty pants or seem like a know it all but I've got a small tweak to your above post. When you increase your muzzle velocity your drops will be less at distance, not more. So in your example the drop would be more like 1.2 mil instead of 1.6...please continue.

I realized after I posted, but yes I understand that LOL. Thank you!
 
2.5 MOA (or .8MIL) @ 600 yards is 15". A clean miss, or even worse, a wounded animal from a poor hit. I hunt anywhere from 700' to 9000'+. From -6° to 110°. 15" difference in drops is a no-go for me to only have one turret made.

Completely agree with you. May I ask what your method is for determining your drop data for each, specific environment you hunt?
 
I gather info before my hunts.
Altitude within 500'AMSL (6500-7500', I use 7000')
Temp range and take median (5° to 35°, I use 20°)
I do not use turret tapes or custom turrets. I print a list and tape it to the scope. It has worked for shots out to 700+.
But, I still always try to range and have my ballistic app open with exact elevation/pressure and temps to verify when we have time.
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View attachment 162655

So how do you pick your altitude? Say I hunt 6,000, but I also work my way up to 8,000, would I pick a chart designed for 7,000?

I understand taking a median range.

So you print a list for a median range of possible temperature during the hunt, and the elevation. How do you determine what elevation to print? If you hunt 6,000, but will be up to 8,000 within the same hunt, how do you determine what altitude to use?
 
I'm definitely not a "turret twister" B/C I rely on a "Christmas tree" milrad reticle which is just as accurate, foolproof and faster.

That said, whether you use turrets or Xmas tree reticles, using a Kestrel weather meter/ballistic engine to get a reading at your hunting location would be the most accurate and fastest way to account for altitude density and a firing solution.
Two or three readings a day should be sufficient with various temperature changes as the day warms (or cools) and the altitude changes.

Eric B.
 
Looked at this challenge but the answer for me was Leica range with altitude, bar pressure, shot angle, temp, etc. built in w instant click value and all that comes in their B model. Still takes some tuning but best ive found for field hunting app. Cards and tape for backup. Pricey but instantaneous.
 
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