Backpacking for Cascade Black-Tails

By Lucas Beitner

There are many areas accessible for hunting by road which hold plenty of quality game. Each year I see pictures of monster bucks taken in easy-to-access country. So why would anyone take the extra time and effort to hunt the backcountry? Each "backpack in" hunter will have their own reasons, but a sense of adventure is sure to be near the top of everyone's list. There are fewer hunters (especially without stock animals) to compete with. Unless weather is poor you are constantly enjoying breathtaking views of mountain vistas. Trading in tires for Vibram soles slows your pace and heightens awareness of your surroundings. As the miles pass you discover what it truly means to "get away". These days there seem to be more stresses, pressures, and just plain stupidity to "get away" from!

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Our society seems to increasingly cater to the lowest common denominator. We have rules and laws to protect the dumbest among us. We are not allowed to take even the slightest risk, no matter our level of skill or experience (unless we want to risk other people's money). The wilderness is exactly the opposite. There are no laws restricting your path of travel to the safest possible route. There are no warning signs to protect the dimwitted. You can accept risks, but nothing will stop you from experiencing the rewards or consequences associated with them (and I've had plenty of both). Having a little more skill or knowledge can pay big dividends. There is no handicap imposed out of a sense of "fairness". Mother Nature doesn't hand out participation trophies, but there are some trophies to be had. This experience can be taken one step further by going solo.

In the 2013 season I missed out on my beloved "high buck hunt" in September since I was hunting mountain goats in Alaska. While I feel this was a very good excuse, I couldn't wait to get back into Washington's Cascades. I was lucky enough to get six consecutive days off during the "main season" and I knew exactly where I wanted to go. In 2011 I started watching YouTube videos by Steve Isdahl (user name Proguide66) on black-tail deer hunting. The videos are intense and they rekindled a long extinguished flame. From the time I was about 15 up until my early 20's I was obsessed with black-tails and had little interest in harvesting anything else. I took four mature black-tail bucks during that period (three of them solo) before I moved on to high country mule deer. Adding fuel to the fire, during the 2012 main season I saw a very large 3x4 black-tail buck bedded in some cliffs just 120 yards away. The problem? I was hunting bear since I had filled my deer tag with a young muley on the high hunt a month before (had to make a quick decision and misjudged him). I resolved that I would attempt to harvest a mature black-tail in 2013.

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My dad had discovered some quality black-tail country many years before I started hunting. This particular area is quite remote as there are no trails. We call the area "naked man" because on one trip my dad met a man who wore no clothing, save socks and boots. Imagine my dad's surprise! The naked man explained he was shocked that he wasn't alone in this pristine wilderness. It's not the easiest area to access or hunt, but once you're in, you will have the whole area to yourself. If you were to see someone else (I haven't yet) you can be sure they are certifiably insane. Back in 2011 my dad picked up a shed antler from a true monster black-tail in this area. If his other side matched he'd easily go over 140". The bases on the shed were not super heavy either, so we were thinking he was getting close to his prime. That's more than enough motivation for me!

At first light I began climbing from the road. 6 hours later I arrived at my predetermined camp. I didn't take the best route, and paid for it with a little extra time and effort. I was hoping to see several deer and at least one buck every day. Well, the first two days of my hunt I was totally skunked. I found plenty of sign but I did not see a single deer, not even a doe. I had snow in places but it was not fresh. Black-tail hunting can be tough. This is not the first time I've been skunked. I was hunting hard, probably harder than ever. When hunting mule deer I consider myself skunked for the day if I do not see a buck. This almost never happens! I was discouraged for sure, but I knew better than to give up. I was getting lots of knowledge based on tracks, rubs and trails about where certain bucks were "hanging out".

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The third day was a breakthrough. I moved slowly through the woods at first light, using my binoculars constantly. Only a few hundred yards from my camp I picked up slight movement. A little dark in the woods still, it was hard to make out details. So I just watched silently for several minutes. I was looking at a good mature 3x3. He was only about 16" wide but he was quite tall. Normally I would drop him in his tracks (I generally don't pass on mature black-tails). I already felt like I knew his area as I'd spent some time trying to decipher his trails and rubs on the previous two days. I figured I might try to find him on my last day if I couldn't locate a bigger buck.

Having a very positive attitude about my abrupt change of luck, I turned and started to climb through the woods heading to the ridge top. I saw several does and stayed with them until I was confident there wasn't a buck nearby. I had to move through a portion of meadow (which I try to avoid). The meadow was very loud as all the plants had been frozen and crunched under my feet. I felt like I was in a very good area at the top of the ridge and was moving painfully slow even though I was making plenty of noise when I did move.

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About fifty yards away I hear a deer crashing, and then stop suddenly. I strained to pick out the buck through my binos. He had a great looking frame as far as I could tell. He looked to be 20" wide. I couldn't make out much more. The twigs and branches blended with his rack so well. Was this the big buck I was after? I could tell for sure he was legal but little more. I kept adjusting the focus knob, hoping the details of his rack would become clear. There were at least four layers of thick brush between myself and the buck.

I was considering taking a shot through the brush. He swung his head, looking directly toward me. I just couldn't chance a poor shot through brush even though he wasn't far. The wind was in my favor and I hadn't moved a muscle, but the buck knew better and took off. I didn't think I'd have a chance of catching him again that day, and I wasn't convinced he was the big one.

Backpacking for Cascade Black-Tails - 2

Maybe an hour later I was working my way slowly down the ridge and I noticed some movement through the trees. I couldn't make anything out through the binoculars, so I slowly crept forward. Eventually, I made out a deer. It was a buck and although his body was very stout and broad his rack was quite compact. A true 4x4 with short tines, he was easy to pass up because the other two bucks I'd seen before were clearly nicer. I decided to hang out with this buck and see if he'd lead me to something better. I followed him a couple hundred yards through the woods but then he eventually slipped away. I'm sure I could have circled around and found him again but I didn't think it would be worth the effort.

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I had a cross wind with the ridge so I decided to turn around and head in the opposite direction. As I worked my way up the ridge I realized I was having my single best day of black-tail hunting ever, and it wasn't over. Passing on nice bucks gives the opportunity to have days like these. I took a break above a bowl filled with snow and trees. I glassed hard into the trees. There were substantial tracks going in and out so I figured the deer were not too far. I changed positions several times to get a better perspective into the trees. Sure enough, I found a nice buck bedded down in the shadows. I looked him over closely, he wasn't very wide (maybe 16") but he was fairly tall and had decent tines. He was a 4x4 and had brow tines as well. I really didn't want to let this buck go, but I still had three days left and he wasn't the big one I was looking for.

The next morning my confidence was at an all-time high. I was in one of the most beautiful areas of the Cascade range, and I was finding mature bucks. I headed into a different area than I hunted the day before. I found a couple sets of big tracks and a couple more rubs. I worked up to a pass and into the next canyon. I'd seen nice bucks there in years past. I enjoyed the scenery and exercise, but was dying to see another buck. I felt as though I was doing everything right but I only saw ten does all day. This was the first day I had seen any deer come out into a meadow and feed. I knew better than to doubt myself too much. Some days you just don't find those bucks (or at least I don't)! I was beginning to wonder if I would end up regretting passing on nice bucks the day before.

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It was now the fifth day since I'd left. I was starting to feel the pressure of my deadline. I headed toward where I'd seen the 20" buck in the woods two days before. While crossing the open area of meadow I glassed to the far side and saw the white face of a buck looking into the meadow from the tree line. I was able to use the roll of the terrain to get out of his sight and moved down to a large rock just above the tree line. He was still there looking out. I could see he had a good frame, I figured he was about 18" wide. A doe moved past him out into the meadow, followed by another. He let them feed alone for several minutes before he came out. He was coming my way and I could tell he was no 4x4. I was quite disappointed. He had everything I wanted in a black-tail except tines! He was just a 2x3 with one brow tine, but he was quite heavy! Anyone who knows me knows I have a weakness for heavy antlered deer. I decided I'd pass on him.

I got out my camera and started taking pictures of him through the scope. He was even more tempting as he got closer but I continued taking pictures. He chased his does around for a bit then bedded down with them out of my sight. This is the first buck I'd seen that had does with him. I wanted to look him over some more so I got out a "can call" I'd borrowed and gave it a bleat. He lifted his head above the brush and tempted me once again with his heavy rack. His head went down again. I waited a few minutes and gave another bleat. Without hesitation the two does followed closely by the buck made a beeline for the woods. They were heading straight away from me. As I watched him running away I had an intense feeling of disappointment. It was at this time I realized I actually wanted that heavy 2x3. I watched helplessly as he disappeared into the tree line on the far side. He was one of the heaviest horned black-tails I'd ever seen. I decided I'd wait there, and if the buck showed himself again, I'd promptly range him, dial the scope and shoot. I had brought my "super accurate" Benchmark 7wsm, so I had confidence in spades.

I scanned the treeline with resolve. About ten minutes later I see a doe emerging from the woods. I was hoping it was one of his does. A few minutes later another doe shows. Finally after what felt like an hour (probably about five minutes) I see another deer but it's back in the trees. Sure enough it was the buck. He would disappear for minutes at a time and refused to clear the trees. Finally he shows up in a perfect window between two trees. I range him at 530yds. I then ranged the tree line to make sure I had not hit a tree in front of him. The tree line was 502yds… it was time to drop the hammer. I quickly referenced my drop chart and dialed the scope. I couldn't rest off the bipod due to the configuration of the rock so I'd rested the rifle about mid-stock on my sand sock. I steadied the crosshairs on his shoulder holding just a ¼ mil into the wind. I slowly pressed the trigger. I had good sight picture all the way through recoil as the 140gr berger VLD made its way. I saw him lunge behind the trees after the bullet hit. The shot felt good and I was confident I'd hammered him.

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I was quite pleased as I gathered my things and hiked across the meadow. I was looking forward to getting my hands on him. The does didn't even run off after the shot was fired and one stayed in the meadow until I was about 150 yards from her. I first hiked straight to where the buck was when I'd shot. I looked down the hill and he'd piled up in a thicket of trees less than ten yards from where I'd shot him. When I got my hands on his rack I was pleased there was no ground shrinkage. He was every bit as heavy as he looked and he turned out to be 19.25" wide (outside spread of main beam). I took some pictures, and got to work. His body was quite large and I had a pack full of de-boned meat in no time. As I carried my pack back to camp I decided I would have to make two trips out, one for the deer and another for my gear. I left all my gear in my tent where it would be safe until the next weekend.

That night I got a couple inches of snow. I got up early to make myself a cup of coffee and do a little glassing. Nothing showed up. I packed up all the meat, shook the snow off the tent, pulled the guy lines taut, and was on my way. Dropping down a couple thousand feet or so in elevation, the snow turned to rain. It was steep, slippery country, but I had crampons on and only slid when a patch of compacted fir and hemlock needles filled my crampons and turned into a natural alpine roller skate. Avoiding slipping and falling is very important when you're alone. When you have no trails to follow you have to be more aware of your general route so you don't get too far off course. I had to cross several creeks to get out.

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On the hike in I felt like I'd found some fairly good spots to cross. On the way out I missed one of my crossings by a few hundred feet in elevation which costs time, but it was only a minor setback. As I became more wet and fatigued I forced myself to slow down and be more deliberate about my steps. I had to go through miles of blowdowns through a "dead forest". Although the wind wasn't particularly strong I watched several large trees come down. I'd hear popping and cracking before one would fall so there was a little bit of warning. Luckily, I never had to move to get out of the way.

Backpacking for Cascade Black-Tails -3

Although I looked like and smelled worse than a wet dog, I was in very good spirits. I made it out to my car in five and a half hours. Not bad considering I was constantly telling myself "be deliberate," "be careful," and "slow down." My little car was a welcome sight. Almost exactly a year before I was looking over a big black-tail, having already notched my tag. I told myself I'd try to tag a mature black-tail the next year. Well, now that I was back to my car, I could say I'd done it!

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Well, I'd almost done it. Going back in the next weekend for my gear was an adventure in its own right. More snow had come down and there was a windstorm that weekend, even in town (Seattle and Everett). The conditions were only that much worse in the Cascades. I did a little more map studying with my dad that week to insure I took the best possible route in and out. I got in with little trouble. It was actually easier than the first trip. Almost a foot of snow had fallen since I'd left. It was beautiful to say the least.

It started to snow steadily and I turned in early for bed. During the night the wind started ripping. My tent didn't get pounded too hard (protected by old growth timber) but I would hear large trees falling not far away. A couple were so close I could feel the earth beneath the tent shake. I unzipped the door at one point expecting to see downed trees near the tent, but could see nothing but snow flying everywhere in near blizzard conditions. I knew there was nothing I would be able to do if a tree came my way. I certainly wasn't getting out of the tent!

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The next morning was still blizzard-like conditions. It's no fun trying to pack your tent up in these circumstances. I did get packed up as quickly as possible and made the descent rapidly at first. The wind had subsided a great deal compared to the night before. Even so, I was sure to avoid the "dead forest" as there would surely be more trees falling. The crampons I was trying out with the ratcheting straps were not cooperating. The straps were coming undone occasionally even though I put them on under my gators. I had snow all the way down to my car. I was glad to complete the final part of one of the greatest hunts of my life.

While I recommend hunting solo, I understand the drawbacks. Here are a few things to consider before you decide to make multi-day trips alone in the wilderness. If your hunt is successful, you will carry an absurd amount of weight, or make multiple trips, or (most likely) you will do both (first trip out I had 136 pounds according to the bathroom scale). More risk is involved since there is no one else to go to for help should something go horribly wrong. I can give personal examples where things almost went very badly. To keep things brief and decidedly less embarrassing these will be omitted. If you are hunting with a good friend you have someone to share in the humor and occasional struggles.

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Hunting solo does have advantages. One person produces half as much scent, noise and movement observed by game. You have more country to yourself. You can change your plans at the drop of a hat, not worrying about disturbing your partner's hunt. Having two people almost doubles the chances that someone will get hurt (possibly even more depending on the other person's experience/skill level). In my opinion you are more likely to harvest quality game when alone. You may also have a greater sense of satisfaction, successful or not. Nothing teaches self-reliance better than…well, actually relying only on yourself.


Lucas Beitner has been hunting big game since age 10. He mostly enjoys backpacking into the high country for black tails and mule deer in the Cascade Mountains. Lucas spends much of the off season scouting and hiking. He also enjoys competing in practical/tactical long range shooting matches.