General RE LEE
Well-Known Member
You were able to sum up what I have been contemplating in 3 concise sentences.
Zero at 100 Yards and Leave Turret at 200 Yards for Hunting?
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You were able to sum up what I have been contemplating in 3 concise sentences.
Hugnot
Well-Known Member
Depends what I am shooting and what I am shooting at. Generally 1 inch high zero at 200 will give +- 3" & change up to 300 yards with a zero at 225 shooting my much used 75gr .224 ELDM at 3300 fps. A little over 400 yds. will be 1 MRAD or 3.5 MOA, depending on scope, using the reticle. Beyond 425 I use a handy MOA or MRAD table. I trust reticle features more than dialing using my somewhat less than super grade scopes. Most of my misses are caused by wind, so I wait until it is flat on ground or line up on up wind side. I allow for time of flight & potential target movement.
Zeros of other bullets ranging up to 200 grain .308's at 2800 fps are adjusted accordingly.
Zeros of other bullets ranging up to 200 grain .308's at 2800 fps are adjusted accordingly.
I didn't read through all 6 pages. I use Shooterscalculator.com to calculate PBR (Point Blank Range). I you assume a 6 inch high kill zone, and enter the data for your rifle. It will tell you where to sight in at 100 yards, and how far you can shoot without being more than 3" high at close range or 3" low at max PBR. For my 7mm, at 2850 fps 168 gr. Bergers, I sight in 2.7" high at 100, and I'm good to 280 yards without dialing. If you make a good shot, you'll never be more than 3" off point of aim to that range. Needless to dial up when shooting below that range. On an elk, I usually go with an 8" kill zone. On javelina, maybe 4".
barefoot1
Member
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- Mar 27, 2016
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I too have gone to this system for the same reasons. I don"t walk/stalk hunt much anymore but even hiking in to a predetermined overlook I have surprised a couple of nice bucks at just under 100 yards and had no time to think about turrets. I adjust turrets after determining distance of shooting lanes once I set up in a designated spotting area.
greenejc
Well-Known Member
I do that with rifles with no or generic bullet drop points in the scope. This leaves me with an easy shot into vitals out to about 260 or 275 yards when a quick shot is required, and keeps the flight of the round within the kill area of the animal from the muzzle out to that distance. I tend to shoot center mass for quick shots, so 1.5/1.75 yards still will kill a deer or an antelope out to 260 or so yards with my 30-06 using a standard scope. Most of my hunting rifles, however, use the Shepherd scope system and have the bullet drop built into them. If the game animal is farther than 250 or so, and I have time, I use the appropriate reticule aimpoint for the bullet drop and dial in any wind. You might want to check out the Shepherd and Salvo lines of scopes for bullet drop and range-finding reticules at: https://shepherdscopes.com/. They have a new DRS scope now that would work for both quick shots and long range shots. It is a 3.5 to 15 power scope, giving a low enough power for easy use inside 100 yards and fast pick-up, and enough power at the high end for precision shooting out to 1,000 yards, while giving a large choice of reticules for ranging and bullet drop in calibers from the 300 Ultramag/338 Ultramag down to the . 308 in 30 cal, and all caliber families both below and above up to the fast .375s. They can probably match the 404, 416 and 458 families as well, out to around 500 yards. By the way, once you've sighted in at 100 yards, go to 200 and 250 and fire at each range so you can verify group center. You might also fire at 300 just to see how far it drops at that range, which will give you a good idea of bullet path for that distance at a 200 yard zero. And of course, if you're low at 200 it lets you adjust for a dead on impact at 200, with an idea of how low it will be between 200 and 300 yards.
clark33
Well-Known Member
If you we implying a 200 or 300 yard zero would remedy this issue, that is not correct.
You're saying at 100yds you are saying you are in the middle of your scope, leaving you with 29moa up and 29moa of travel down. You need 30 to hit 1,000.
So how would zeroing at 200 fix this? If at 100 you are dead in the middle, how would you get a 200yd zero with out eating up any moa adjustments from center? Still wouldn't give enough travel to reach 1,000 man.
If this is your scenario then you would need a rail or rings that provides additional moa
I zero my rifle on 100m but with +offset.
Why?
Because it is easier and on 100y I dont have think about environmental factors.
So when I zeroed my rifle on 100 they shoot 4 or 5cm or 10cm high and 1cm or 2cm to the left (it all depends for what purpose I use rifle)
But I never zeroed to the 100y dead on center, because I dont see point to do that for hunting purposes.
Why?
Because it is easier and on 100y I dont have think about environmental factors.
So when I zeroed my rifle on 100 they shoot 4 or 5cm or 10cm high and 1cm or 2cm to the left (it all depends for what purpose I use rifle)
But I never zeroed to the 100y dead on center, because I dont see point to do that for hunting purposes.
1894C
Well-Known Member
Every rifle I own has a 200 yard zero. Absolutely no reason in my mind to not have one. Even my 300 yard max rifles have a 200 yard zero. The 16" 308 I hunt with that usually sees 100 yard shots in thick brush, 200 yard zero. One less thing to think about and off a 200 yard zero you'll be dead nuts at +- 60 yards as well as 200. On a 100 yard zero you are low all the way to 100.
floyd kittrell
Well-Known Member
Personal preference , all mine are set at 100 and I dial or just shoot off the MOA reticle . Depends on how much time I have and if the critter is feeding or on the move , decisions , decisions !
I zero my turret for 100 yards, just make the moa numbers out to whatever easer in the big picture. As for the 25- 100 -250 yards shots, it's holding over or under if close and bang! Much like windage, which I hardly ever dial on my scope except for "really" long-range shots and then only for bullet spin rotation and wind speed if I can dope it right, after that, it's pretty much Kentucky windage for any other shots or as they say impact and adjust. Cheers.
remingtonman_25_06
Well-Known Member
That's why you have this thing called a ballistic app, that let's you put in the actual weather condition and variables of which you zeroed your rifle in at 300 yards, and then they have another thing called current weather conditions when you shoot any other day or place of the year. It does all the computing for you! Gee, what a concept huh...The difference of a 100/200/300 zero isnt crap. It's all personal preference based on where, how, and what a guy is hunting or shooting and comfortable with. Nothing more, nothing less. And for all the guys who cant remember how many clicks they've dialed and where they're at etc, that seems more like a personal problem than anything...
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I've struggled with zero lately. 30 years prior 3 inches high at 100 made quick easy kills to 500 yards.. bought all these high dollar scopes zeiss v6 and v8... all kinds of tracking issues.. should have went right back to what worked.
But now using nightforce nx8. Perfect tracking but glass not as good as Zeiss or Swarovski z6.
Always trade offs..
But now using nightforce nx8. Perfect tracking but glass not as good as Zeiss or Swarovski z6.
Always trade offs..
clark33
Well-Known Member
So you make a correction to your 300yd zero every time you hunt a new location with new conditions? If not your 300yd zero is likely off, if you do make those corrections a simple 100yd zero would fix that
the point is, your 300yd zero is only zeroed under those EXACT conditions. If you don't correct your zero at 300 in new conditions before plugging in new conditions in said app you are compounding errors
I'd love to have a rifle that only dropped 16" @ 1000 yards.
