Wood stock restore?
- Thread starter zr600
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8x68s
Well-Known Member
various suggestions:
what has worked best for me is to take off as much of the hard finish (lacquer, varnish, etc.) with acetone by soaking, if possible, and sanding to remove stain color. The acetone will work some color out but not all, as the stain has penetrated the wood.
what has worked best for me is to take off as much of the hard finish (lacquer, varnish, etc.) with acetone by soaking, if possible, and sanding to remove stain color. The acetone will work some color out but not all, as the stain has penetrated the wood.
corsair4360
Well-Known Member
I have used Jasco.... it is a mess to work with.. but it will do what you ask for. look here if you want more information... https://www.hunker.com/12575774/the-best-wood-varnish-remover-products
8x68s
Well-Known Member
did the S-W remove stain or just the finish material? or was there even any stain? wouldn't be any on most walnuts, eh? ok, maybe a dumb question...LOL
I've used Citristrip with good results.
I tried Formby's with a recent M70. Ugh, what a mess. Wound up using mostly laquer thinner. Depending on the finish applied, methyl alcohol works, as well as acetone, like @8x68s suggests.
Remember to use gloves that will withstand the solvent you are using, as well as a solvent rated respirator.
I painstakingly recut a lot of the hand checkering in the stock because it was completely gunked up with the Formby's garbage. What a PITA. In a moment of impatience, I used a steel brush (clean, unused one) that I have a few of for cleaning up welds. Wow, it worked great!
Here's info on my refinish:
www.northwestfirearms.com
Edit to add:
some stains are just surface. Those you strip and sand.
Others, absorbed into the wood, may require more diligent approaches. Some methods:
Remember to use gloves that will withstand the solvent you are using, as well as a solvent rated respirator.
I painstakingly recut a lot of the hand checkering in the stock because it was completely gunked up with the Formby's garbage. What a PITA. In a moment of impatience, I used a steel brush (clean, unused one) that I have a few of for cleaning up welds. Wow, it worked great!
Here's info on my refinish:
Tung oil
You guys ever use it? I have done some refinishing without using it to this point, but I was wondering if you all use it or not. I know I could look it up, but 600 grit in between coats or steel wool. Thanks
Edit to add:
some stains are just surface. Those you strip and sand.
Others, absorbed into the wood, may require more diligent approaches. Some methods:
Bleach with Oxalic acid
bleach with dilute chlorine solution then follow up with ammonia wash
Try different solvents. One of the tricks we did in wood shop when a stain was absorbed preferentially in an area, leaving a dark blotch, was to saturate a rag with thinner (turp or mineral spirits) and "rub it out". Think of it like washing a dog poo out of the rug.
Last edited:
MagnumManiac
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- Feb 25, 2008
- Messages
- 5,546
I've done many Sako stocks with the Varnish finish. I scrape that off, it removes very easily.
Then I sand and finish, the varnish on those has the stain/colour in it, Sako always used a reddish hue in their varnishes in the L series stocks.
The newer stocks are an oil finish.
Personally, I don't like varnish, it doesn't feel right to me.
I used Citristrip a few times, it works on Polyurethane quite well.
Cheers.
Then I sand and finish, the varnish on those has the stain/colour in it, Sako always used a reddish hue in their varnishes in the L series stocks.
The newer stocks are an oil finish.
Personally, I don't like varnish, it doesn't feel right to me.
I used Citristrip a few times, it works on Polyurethane quite well.
Cheers.
TAWS
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- Joined
- Jan 28, 2005
- Messages
- 105
TAWS
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2005
- Messages
- 105
I have used a lot of different paint/finish removers and the one I keep going back to is good old StripEzze. I custom painted shotgun-competition stocks and used house of colors automotive base coat/clear coat. StripEzze was not the only one but was the quickest to get that stuff off. I then followed up with a acetone wash. If you have jus an oil finish acetone or lacquer thinner will work.
ntsqd
Well-Known Member
Y'all know to be really, really careful about getting bleach & ammonia near each, right? Do not want them mixing in a container or on a stock.
I thought this would be well known, but just in case it isn't.....
I thought this would be well known, but just in case it isn't.....
If it's a walnut stock it might not even be stained, if your refinishing it rests in it if it is.
