Witt Machine Clamp on Muzzle Brake

General RE LEE

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I've been doing research on braking my Tikka T3x 6.5 Creedmoor and honestly not crazy about cutting off barrel length getting it threaded. I see the Witt clamp on brake has good reviews. I am going to get the exact measurements and place an order.
Anyone here got first hand experience with then Witt clamp on brake?
 
I've been doing research on braking my Tikka T3x 6.5 Creedmoor and honestly not crazy about cutting off barrel length getting it threaded. I see the Witt clamp on brake has good reviews. I am going to get the exact measurements and place an order.
Anyone here got first hand experience with then Witt clamp on brake?
Threading the muzzle is NOT cutting off the length.

 
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Be very, very accurate with the measurements you take for the fabrication. Their warning about such is spot on. I purchased one used knowing the bore dimensions (they are marked on the device) and thought dimensions were ""close enough" for the clamping mechanism to make up the very small difference. NOT!! The result was a flying muzzle break after 2 rounds and a 50 yard trip downrange to retrieve it. This is not a diss of the brake. Just making the point strongly: follow Witt's directions!!
 
They work. I have 3 and have not had an issue with any. A threaded brake will be more effective as they can cut them to a closer tolerance. instead of .050-.60 overbore depending on the caliber. 308, 270x2 6.5 cm and 7mag. between myself and a few friends. I also have 2 beast brakes and have owned quite a few others. I really like the beast. I have one on a 300prc and the other on a Creedmoor prs set-up.
The Witt is a no-brainer if you have a sporter barrel. Just make sure you have accurate measurements and you will be well served.
 
I've put one on my Tikka T3 270 WSM but haven't shot it yet. One of my concerns is with galling of the two metal surfaces with the heated barrel. Did anyone use anti-seize or similar when putting the muzzle brake on the barrel?
 
Installed one on a 300 WBY last spring, have around 200 rounds through it. Had a slight impact shift left and low with 200 grain AB @ 84 gr of H1000. Gun is fun to shoot with the brake installed. Looked at it with bore scope the other day, port edges are looking a little singed but is holding up well. Doesn't do much for the look of the rifle IMO
 
I've read people prefer not to thread the skinny T3X barrels.
OK, now that we are OK that threading a barrel is not cutting the length of the barrel, threading the muzzle due to its diameter is another story. Machinist/gunsmiths have a recommended minimum barrel diameter for a recommended thread to safely secure a muzzle brake. Instead of relying heavily on what you have read, consult with the gunsmith that is going to thread your barrel. Do you know the "actual" diameter of your barrel at the muzzle? Below is my Kimber 84M Hunter in .30 Gibbs with .565" diameter at the muzzle with a Ross Schuler MB.

.30 Gibbs scoped 1 of .jpg

.30 Gibbs with Ross Schuler 4-port brake 3 of 3.jpg


Below is my Savage 111F in .300 WM with a similar muzzle diameter with Holland's QD MB. This is my 1st ever MB installed in 2003 and still fully operational today.
Antelope on Savage 111F .300 WM.jpg
 
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