windage adjustable Weaver rings/bases?

[milanuk]

Hello,

Well, here's one for the optical gurus out there:

What is available as far as windage adjustable bases/rings in the Weaver/Picatinny format?

The reason I ask is because it would be nice to be able to 'zero' the scope for windage during mounting, prior to having to crank on the knobs (assuming the scope is mechanically centered as far as windage goes) at the range. Kind of like a person can do w/ the opposing screws on the rear portion of a Redfield style base (front dovetail, rear windage adjust) as sold by Leupold or Burris. I'm kind of limited by my particular application, in that I a) need to use an extended scope rail, such as a Cloward, Satern, Badg. Ord, to obtain sufficient eye relief, and b) this limits me to Weaver/Picatinny mounts, c) the Burris Signature 'Zee' rings that I have don't open far enough to slide over the rail of the above rail (could be a problem w/ *just* my set of rings), and finally d) I need to be able to remove and reinstall the scope w/ rings, the base, etc. somewhat repeatably (i.e. w/i an MOA or two to minimize # rds req'd to re-zero) so I'm not sure if just using shims to scoot the rings over on the rails slightly would hold up (or stay put).

I've seen one set of kind of adjustable rings, I think they were some sort of external adjustment w/ micrometer knobs, and something like 50MOA adjustment for windage and elevation. Little bit of overkill at something like $750 last I looked!

Is there anything I've missed as far as options? I used to have a set of low Redfield rings for a Weaver base that had instead of a clamping plate w/ a screw/bolt to lock it down just on one side, it had an identical one on the other side so the scope ring could be scooted over somewhat by loosening one side, tightening the other. Kind of a PITA to zero quickly, but it worked pretty well otherwise.

Perfect solution (in my mind) would be a set of rings built like the Leupold PRW, but w/ clamping plates on *both* sides, and w/ the inserts of the Burris system. Now *that* would be a heck of a set of rings!

Kind of odd set of requirements, but if anyone has any suggestions, I'm all ears!

Thanks,

Monte

 

[Vern Harrison]

I have only run into this problem one time. It was due to miss drilled holes in the top of my receiver.

It was cheaper to have to holes realined, and install a good base and ring system, like Badger or IOR ...est. IMHO

 

[ShueGlue737]

if you have not found a solution. this link shows use of a set of rings you alter the windage and elevation with asymmetrical inserts inside the scope rings themselves, therefore you can leave them in place and just remove the base screws. hope it helps

How To Cope With A Cross-Eyed Rifle

 

[westkraut]

I have only run into this problem one time. It was due to miss drilled holes in the top of my receiver.

It was cheaper to have to holes realined, and install a good base and ring system, like Badger or IOR ...est. IMHO

Redrilling and installing better bases/rings may be the most practical thing to do, but I just ordered a pair of Weaver Grand Slam windage adjustable rings (curiosity is at play) for a very nice 8mm M96 Mauser sporter that obviously has mis-aligned Weaver bases that I bought via an on-line gun forum (another issue). I am not at all experienced with windage adjustable scope rings (but my reading shows such adjustment methods were the norm on early scoped rifles). This alignment issue was readily apparent just from bore sighting in the basement......something I normally do at much longer distances at the range. I just bought the 8mm as a shorter range hunting rifle and not for long range shooting but as is, it would not hit a barn. This is the first time I have had a significant issue with preinstalled bases. I have not removed the bases as the screws are solidly locked in and I wanted to try the windage adjustable rings to see how they work and if they can correct a base alignment for the scope. What is apparent is that the whole front base is slightly off center and to the left of the center line above the bore, the rear base looks good.
What might still be a problem, and I can't tell yet, is if the front or rear base is also canted slightly so that it's sides and center line is not even parallel to the center of the bore or the sides and center line of the other base.
I suspect that if one or both bases are also cocked/canted, the Weaver rings may not correct the problem since they just move the ring to the left or right. The Burris rings with inserts might be the answer in such a situation but I will will keep your suggestion in mind as getting the rifle re-drilled and tapped and use windage adjustable bases as I have on most of my rifles may be the slightly more expensive but perhaps the best long term solution for this sporter.

By the way, since buying a 1" alignment bar I also found that my brand new factory drilled and tapped with bases muzzleloader has nicely aligned Weaver bases and they do place the scope center parallel to the center of the bore but to the left of top dead center by about 3/16". This may be just a minor issue for hunting but it does show that new firearms can have improper-misaligned base mounting holes as well.

In the end one can prepare well but never can be sure of the accuracy until you get the proof on the range......the greater the distance the more issues affect the accuracy.lightbulb

 

[farout]

Now days I only use the Burris Signature Zee rings mentioned in the link above. Not only can windage be adjusted, but various amounts of MOA can be added as well using the ***-Align insert kits. Now I don't have to add a 20 MOA rail, I just use a kit with offset inserts and I can have 5, 10, 15, 20, MOA, whatever I want.

The other BIG thing about these rings is no lapping is necessary and they do not mar the scope. That is great if you ever want to move the scope to another gun or sale it.

 

[CogburnR]

Now days I only use the Burris Signature Zee rings mentioned in the link above. Not only can windage be adjusted, but various amounts of MOA can be added as well using the ***-Align insert kits. Now I don't have to add a 20 MOA rail, I just use a kit with offset inserts and I can have 5, 10, 15, 20, MOA, whatever I want.

The other BIG thing about these rings is no lapping is necessary and they do not mar the scope. That is great if you ever want to move the scope to another gun or sale it.

X2!!

 

[westkraut]

Now days I only use the Burris Signature Zee rings mentioned in the link above. Not only can windage be adjusted, but various amounts of MOA can be added as well using the ***-Align insert kits. Now I don't have to add a 20 MOA rail, I just use a kit with offset inserts and I can have 5, 10, 15, 20, MOA, whatever I want.

The other BIG thing about these rings is no lapping is necessary and they do not mar the scope. That is great if you ever want to move the scope to another gun or sale it.

Thanks Farout, .....I will look into the Burris and the insert kits also as I only have read about them (and the adjustable Weaver rings), never used them or any adjustable rings or others with inserts. I'll try the Weaver rings that I ordered first as they may provide enough correction for this 8mm for hunting but I will sure consider them for any additional rifles I get.

What bases are you using with the Burris Zee rings......Weaver? other maker's?.....steel rails?
This forum and this issue has really opened up a lot of new information about sight/scope alignment, rings and bases for longer distance shooting for me that goes well in advance of what most hunters ever consider even for relatively short distance shooting. Thank you again......it's a great hobby and now almost a full time one for this retireelightbulb

 

[farout]

What bases are you using with the Burris Zee rings......Weaver? other maker's?.....steel rails?

I use Warne one piece steel bases. This is a no brainer for me since Warne bases are manufactured in my state

Since Burris rings are steel. I use steel bases. Most interesting argument I heard in favor of this was that aluminum and steel expand at different rates when heated. So, I like the steel on steel on steel thing.

There are some good threads on this sight about mounting baeses too. Some guys use JB Weld to get an exact no stress fit of the base to the action.

 

[westkraut]

I use Warne one piece steel bases. This is a no brainer for me since Warne bases are manufactured in my state

Since Burris rings are steel. I use steel bases. Most interesting argument I heard in favor of this was that aluminum and steel expand at different rates when heated. So, I like the steel on steel on steel thing.

There are some good threads on this sight about mounting baeses too. Some guys use JB Weld to get an exact no stress fit of the base to the action.

That makes sense (differential expansion) so another good bit of info.....and another good reason to just remove the Weaver bases and start over.....I'll do some checlking of other threads and bookmark them........thanks very much and Merry Christmas to you and other members.........karl