- Jan 5, 2015
35 lbs I stand the gun barrel up tap it down on floor firmly the torque it to 35lbs your good to goI believe it is 35 in-lbs. I know it seems light but they are slotted screws. I recently bought a 2001 M70 Featherweight in 300 WSM that is barely shot and has pillar and glass bedding that looks like a professional installation. I researched online to find torque specs.
Heads up, when I torqued the trigger guard screw to 35 in lbs the magazine floor plate would not open. So, I left the recoil lug action screw at 35 and the others at just snug with blue loctite. I’ve only shot 20 load development rounds through it so not yet determined if this work-around is ok. I may have to shim my screw holes between the bottom metal and pillars if I need to increase torque. With pillars and glass, I could easily torque to 60+ in lbs with socket button-head screws or even socket head capscrews but they (capscrews) wont give the right “look” that this rifle deserves.
Yes a gunsmith set of screwdrivers is right. If you do not have those get a good screwdriver that fills the screw slot end to end. With the screw out so you can check the fit to the bottom of the slot, grind the blade so it is parallel and fits the screw with some resistance. Good to have it tight enough so a light tap or two force the blade to the bottom of the screw slot. Press down firmly while tightening, keeping the screwdriver in line with the screw. You will be able to torque the screw with no damage to the slot. Save that screwdriver for use only only on those screws. Best to use a torque wrench so grind a bit fits your wrench. I recommend you change all screws to Torex style, getting away from hex head screws (Brownells sells screw sets). No Loctite of any color on my gun screws! Use bits that fit tight. Use penetrating oil on scope base screws from inside the action and tap the bit lightly with a small hammer to shock the screw if more than 30 inch pounds of torque is needed to remove the screw.The key is to have a gunsmithing screwdriver set. Don't use your Harbor Freight drivers on guns no matter how good they are.
I did float the barrel forward from the boss to the fore end. I was not certain about the results I would get with the screw left it, and also wanted to maintain the esthetics of the rifle. My thoughts are that if I don't like how the rifleWhy not just go full floating? Get rid of the fore end screw if you bedded it?