Why does MY 300PRC hate H1000?

My 30 sm didn't like any bullet, primer combo with h1000. Loves rl26 and n570.
 
Many times it comes down to burn rate vs bullet weight/length and finding the node based on that.

Many times when people struggle to get a certain powder to work where they can get another to work fine, it's usually due to differences in the burn rate.

I've done a ton of different load development methods over the years and what I've found seems to work the most consistently for me and reliably is the optimal barrel time method.

In order for this to work, you need to get to a particular dwell time that the bullet is in the barrel (or time it takes for the bullet to exit the barrel once fired), so that the harmonics/whip is consistent and stable and the muzzle is pointed to exactly the same point each time.

So, in order to get to that particular barrel time, it takes getting whatever bullet you're using to that time by tweaking the powder charge, type of powder (burn rate) and other things that affect burn rate and pressure such as the particular primer, primer seating depth, neck tension, seating depth, shoulder bump, etc, etc.

With all that said, if the faster burning powders are working better for you, that would mean you'd need to push it faster (higher pressure) with the H1000 to get the same result. You could do this by a mixture of things too. Using a primer with a more intense flame column would increase the pressure curve and actual rate of burn. Bumping shoulders more, seating the bullet deeper, etc would all help as well.

H1000 is a great temp stable powder, and I'd say your issue is likely just not putting yourself in the right combo of things to get you in a node with it, but if you don't want to mess with it and are happy with the results of the other powders, just keep doing what's already working. If you really do want to use it, and want it to work, try doing what you need to to get the pressures and barrel time to match like I was saying and you should start to see success.
 
Seating depth made a big difference in mine, came together at .040 off

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Ive run mag length to mag length-.120". From memory, mag length - 0.030 has produced best results with the 225s, regardless of powder.

I do notice you are running .4gr hotter and 60fps faster though. I have not tried anything more than 77.5gr. Maybe I should push it up a little. That would certainly change the ignition characteristics...
 
Ive run mag length to mag length-.120". From memory, mag length - 0.030 has produced best results with the 225s, regardless of powder.

I do notice you are running .4gr hotter and 60fps faster though. I have not tried anything more than 77.5gr. Maybe I should push it up a little. That would certainly change the ignition characteristics...
I do have a 28" barrel
 
if You have not tried.
neck tension of at least .003ths
20-40-60 off lands for bergers

and last is to try a standard large primer instead of a magnum. 210 federal
if that doesnt work sell H1000 and stick with the other powder.
 
I am awaiting my Manners LRH and then all my parts get dropped off at the gunsmith for my .300WM RM. I only have about 32# of H1000 and 2500 215s, so I hope those will work...

Seriously. But, all kidding aside, I also have about 1200 of the 200.20x Hyb, 600 of the 230 OTMs, and 16-24# of N565 & N570, and 6# of Retumbo just in case.
Lance, if you run out of Retumbo or N570 let me know 😉
 
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All those details were purposefully excluded from my post because they are constants. I can prep 2 loads back to back, with exactly the same process and exactly the same components except powder, and even charge adjusted to the same velocity; H1000 will shoot between 1 and 2.5", 7828 will shoot between 0.13" and 0.6"...

The post is simply an exploration in H1000 tricks and tips.
Well that's great and all but I've never had an issue with it. Your issue sounds like tension, ignition or even the powder being exposed to humidity. I have seen powders that were exposed to elements too much or too long and deteriate and acts like just as you have described. Sometimes h1000 likes to be pushed harder.
 
That's probably pretty close to my 26" barrel, ADG brass and 77.5gr H1000 pressure wise then.
Where did you hit pressure? I can't get a heavy bolt lift, ejector mark, or flat primer with h1000 and ADG brass with 225eldm in my 300prc. I went all the way up to 80.9grains. QL said max load was 81.5.
 
I have not hit pressure per say. Like you, I've seen no signs, except ejector marks but my action ejector marks everything.

Though I normally find QL estimates very close, I found it to under estimate pressure and velocity with H1000. After truing to actual velocity, pressure predictions went way up. Which made sense since the charge and velocity are higher than published data.

That said, and since im not seeing physical signs of pressure, I'm also not opposed to pushing it. Especially since Longtine suggest H1000 sometimes likes to be pushed.

So I now have 2 simple adjustments to test.
1) tighter neck tension
2) push it harder
 
As the title states, my 300 PRC hates H1000. It likes MagPro more and loves 7828. Because I want it to like H1000, ive got to thinking that here has to be a reason besides "just because".

I've tested with 215 Bergers and 225ELDM. In both cases, the powder preference was clear. All else was the same. Same ADG brass, same sizing, same primers tested, all else was equal.

H1000 also earned me one heck of a carbon ring.

There has to be a reason. H1000 is obviously slower than 7828. Is there a chance that my neck tension is too light to pressure up with the slower powder? Something else?

Who has ideas? I really want H1000 to work, but I'm near ready to give up on it.
I've never had any magnum cartridge shoot H1000 worth a 💩 except my 338 edge. I've used it in 300 roy 300 whinney 257 roy but only my 338 edge liked it which I'm happy with because it's easier to find gold nuggets in the snow than find H1000
 
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