Which type of barrel lasts longer in 300 Win Mag?
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I don't believe the type of rifling will have a huge effect on longevity. For longevity the type of steel and thickness of the barrel will probably have the most effect on longevity.
* Would go with a cut rifled barrel for accuracy. Something like Bartlein and Krieger are very popular.
* Use chromoly steel instead of stainless. It can last longer.
* Use a heavy barrel, like a 1" bull barrel. It will disperse heat better and allow more consecutive shots before the barrel heats up. Heat is probably the biggest barrel killer.
* Run a 28" barrel. So, when it is finally shot out, you can have the barrel set back a couple inches and be good to go again - for a while. If you have a very accurate cut rifle barrel and it's a real shooter. This may be a good option.
* Shoot a non-max load. This will have very positive effect on barrel life. No need to run it hard if you can get the accuracy without it.
* Shoot heavy for caliber bullets. Seems the slower bullet speeds can lengthen barrel life too.
* Would go with a cut rifled barrel for accuracy. Something like Bartlein and Krieger are very popular.
* Use chromoly steel instead of stainless. It can last longer.
* Use a heavy barrel, like a 1" bull barrel. It will disperse heat better and allow more consecutive shots before the barrel heats up. Heat is probably the biggest barrel killer.
* Run a 28" barrel. So, when it is finally shot out, you can have the barrel set back a couple inches and be good to go again - for a while. If you have a very accurate cut rifle barrel and it's a real shooter. This may be a good option.
* Shoot a non-max load. This will have very positive effect on barrel life. No need to run it hard if you can get the accuracy without it.
* Shoot heavy for caliber bullets. Seems the slower bullet speeds can lengthen barrel life too.
Lefty7mmstw
Well-Known Member
So much of the barrel life question is up to conjecture.
I've heard (and seen) that stainless barrels can last a bit longer than c m barrels do. I think individual steel has more to do with what you get though as I did loose one stainless barrel rather early.
I've read that light for caliber should help bore life as the dwell time in the barrel is less. You are only getting a couple of seconds total bore life while it is under pressure.
The two biggest variances that can be controlled are shot speed/heat and cleaning care. If you take your time as to not overheat your barrel, the steel will not give as quickly as it is more resilient to powder blast erosion if it is cooler. Keep your barrel clean and don't beat the snot out of it doing so. The soot may or may not actually be abrasive, but it will sure pack in and ruin accuracy eventually.
Mild loads will help a lot too... When the 204 ruger was designed, they found the bore life doubled when the pressure was dropped from the mid 60 Kpsi range to the mid 50 Kpsi range as it runs.
I've heard (and seen) that stainless barrels can last a bit longer than c m barrels do. I think individual steel has more to do with what you get though as I did loose one stainless barrel rather early.
I've read that light for caliber should help bore life as the dwell time in the barrel is less. You are only getting a couple of seconds total bore life while it is under pressure.
The two biggest variances that can be controlled are shot speed/heat and cleaning care. If you take your time as to not overheat your barrel, the steel will not give as quickly as it is more resilient to powder blast erosion if it is cooler. Keep your barrel clean and don't beat the snot out of it doing so. The soot may or may not actually be abrasive, but it will sure pack in and ruin accuracy eventually.
Mild loads will help a lot too... When the 204 ruger was designed, they found the bore life doubled when the pressure was dropped from the mid 60 Kpsi range to the mid 50 Kpsi range as it runs.
Two top ranked barrel makers have told me heat and pressure wear out barrels more than anything else. Rate of fire doesn't mean much until it starts getting more than 10 shots per minute.
Any good quality barrel will not bend and change point of impact as it heats up if it's fit correctly to the receiver. Virtually all commercial factory rifle barrels are not fit correctly so they're the ones fostering the belief that all barrels change point of bullet impact as the heat up.
Barrel life increases about 15% if you use 10% reduced loads. That would reduce a .300 Win Mag's bullets to about that of a .30-06. You could shoot 180's from a .30-06 at 2700 fps with a max load equalling about what a 10% reduction in a .300 Win Mag. load's velocity with them would be. Barrel life for the .30-06 would be 2500 rounds compared to the .300's 1300 round barrel life. Max loads with the .300 Win Mag yields about 1100 rounds of very accurate barrel life
I've seen no difference in .308 Win barrel life shooting 155's out at 3000 fps compared to 168's through 200's being shot out at 2500 to 2700 fps.
Yes, start with a long barrel. Wear out a 29" or 30" one then have it set back 3" and rechambered and you'll get almost the same life as the original one. And keep muzzle velocity up where 300 Win Mags typically have.
Any good quality barrel will not bend and change point of impact as it heats up if it's fit correctly to the receiver. Virtually all commercial factory rifle barrels are not fit correctly so they're the ones fostering the belief that all barrels change point of bullet impact as the heat up.
Barrel life increases about 15% if you use 10% reduced loads. That would reduce a .300 Win Mag's bullets to about that of a .30-06. You could shoot 180's from a .30-06 at 2700 fps with a max load equalling about what a 10% reduction in a .300 Win Mag. load's velocity with them would be. Barrel life for the .30-06 would be 2500 rounds compared to the .300's 1300 round barrel life. Max loads with the .300 Win Mag yields about 1100 rounds of very accurate barrel life
I've seen no difference in .308 Win barrel life shooting 155's out at 3000 fps compared to 168's through 200's being shot out at 2500 to 2700 fps.
Yes, start with a long barrel. Wear out a 29" or 30" one then have it set back 3" and rechambered and you'll get almost the same life as the original one. And keep muzzle velocity up where 300 Win Mags typically have.
elkaholic
Well-Known Member
I have had good luck with longevity AND accuracy with 3 groove Lilja barrels.
shortgrass
Well-Known Member
Broach? Some pistol barrels are broached, don't know of any rifle barrel makers that use that method. Cut , button (two methods, pull button and push button), and hammer forged. Consider having your barrel of choice salt bath nitride treated for added longevity.
elkaholic
Well-Known Member
+1 on the nitride
Jerry M
Well-Known Member
Sorry, barrels are consumable. While less so then bullets and powder, barrels have a usable life. My suggestion is to decide on a twist rate and contour you like and order two barrel blanks. Then when you wear the first one out and are having the rifle rebarrelled order the next.
I have a Bartline, Kreigher, and Rock Creek barrel under my bed waiting for that purpose.
Good luck
Jerry
I have a Bartline, Kreigher, and Rock Creek barrel under my bed waiting for that purpose.
Good luck
Jerry
MagnumManiac
Well-Known Member
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I have gone through several barrels in 300WM, not only is the type of steel used important on lengthening barrel life, but so is the TYPE of powder used.
I also have a couple of hunting rifles, one CM, the other stainless. Both have had similar rounds fired through them, the CM barrel shows more haze cracking and the throat is eroded for a longer section.
I definitely believe stainless barrels last longer, and wide rifling also lasts longer, especially if you use double base powders, which run cooler with less gas than single base powder.
I have 2 barrels cut with the same reamer, one barrel had half it's shots with H1000 and then switched to RE25. The other barrel has only had RE25 fired through it, round count on both is within a dozen rounds, the barrel that had H1000 fired through it had to be set back while the other barrel has not needed to be set back yet.
Cheers.
gun)
I also have a couple of hunting rifles, one CM, the other stainless. Both have had similar rounds fired through them, the CM barrel shows more haze cracking and the throat is eroded for a longer section.
I definitely believe stainless barrels last longer, and wide rifling also lasts longer, especially if you use double base powders, which run cooler with less gas than single base powder.
I have 2 barrels cut with the same reamer, one barrel had half it's shots with H1000 and then switched to RE25. The other barrel has only had RE25 fired through it, round count on both is within a dozen rounds, the barrel that had H1000 fired through it had to be set back while the other barrel has not needed to be set back yet.
Cheers.
gun)
IF you are really worried, go with the salt nitride. It has been proven to be way more effective than worrying about barrel material.
Buy a quality barrel, break it in carefully, clean it super clean and nitride it and shoot it.
Buy a quality barrel, break it in carefully, clean it super clean and nitride it and shoot it.
