Which suppressor

[GoosePilot]

Like Mike D said, they market it as a quick easy modular system to drop a few inches if you're wanting lighter/shorter.
Turns out it's not easy to take apart quickly, special tools are required which you have to buy separately, then you have to go rezero your rifle.
I bought into the modularity marketing and it was a mistake

So would be mad at tbac (or whatever brand) you spun on their 7" and then had to rezero when you spun on their 9" can? That's just totally unreasonable, It's not a manufacturing issue imho.

 

[Mike D Texas]

I could be wrong, but I highly doubt its more time consuming to weld an end than thread

CNC machines can thread pretty quick with little to no human interaction.

I know there are robotic welders too but they are not nearly as fast as CNC.

 

[Mike D Texas]

So would be mad at tbac (or whatever brand) you spun on their 7" and then had to rezero when you spun on their 9" can? That's just totally unreasonable, It's not a manufacturing issue imho.

Not a valid comparison. They are using the modularity as a selling point.

I would totally expect to re zero if I were putting on a totally different can.

 

[Cottonfield]

I'm looking at a dead air sandman l if anyone has any experience with these. I actually put hands on a few and liked this one so I'm looking at it now. I'm looking towards the dead air the tbac 9 and the thunder chicken by q

 

[FEENIX]

So would be mad at tbac (or whatever brand) you spun on their 7" and then had to rezero when you spun on their 9" can? That's just totally unreasonable, It's not a manufacturing issue imho.

When you switch from 7" to 9" you are affecting the barrel harmonics so yes, you will have to re-zero.

 

[GoosePilot]

Not a valid comparison. They are using the modularity as a selling point.

I would totally expect to re zero if I were putting on a totally different can.

You ARE putting on a totally different can. The benefit is you only pay one tax stamp.

IF you choose to disassemble it, you can. (pun intended) You don't have to. If you want to send it in to the factory, I'm sure they will service it for you too.

I dont see silencer central misrepresenting anything.

If you want to have two different length welded units, the only difference would be two tax stamps.

Your going to need 2 different zeros reguardless

 

[Northkill]

I don't think they misrepresent. It's just they emphasize a feature as a selling point that has minimal or questionable value in real life. Personally, I'd rather have 2 cans. Moving stuff around is not my thing, as I'm a bugger for consistency and low maintenance. I almost fell for the Banish thing myself. Not that I think it's a bad can necessarily - I just was wary of the promotional pressure and did my homework talking to guys who know the mechanics enough to give me unbiased feedback from personal experience. There are others to be had for a better value.

 

[mcdil]

Okay, this thread has been awesome so far. Still pondering my options here and trying to decide how I want to go forward, as this will be my first suppressor. My question is, since most of these will be set up on hunting rigs, and I really want to keep the balance and feel as best as possible, what is the disadvantage of sticking with a direct thread option on the suppressor? Before you answer that, consider these criteria:
1. I will have barrel thread caps for the barrels that don't currently have the suppressor attached and have no intention of running with a muzzle brake, ever. I just don't like them. I've never gotten past the negatives that come with them. It's not just that I'm old school, I just think the negatives outweigh the positives for me personally.
2. I do believe, and one of the companies even mentions it with their "shorty" adapter I think it's called, but the suppression should be improved without a brake as there is more volume for the gas to do its thing in the first baffle location.
3. The first baffle should have less focused blast at certain locations, most likely improving durability. On a rifle not designed for high volume shooting, I'm not sure how much value this has, maybe a lot in the case of an overbore cartridge.
4. Trying to keep things light and as short as possible, I would think this the best option.
5. My main purpose for the suppressor is to reduce the vicious sound volume of a typical high powered rifle's shot, not really to take it to ear-safe levels, per say. Basically, I want the range experience to be more enjoyable, and the hunt experience to be acceptable for a single shot without hearing protection. Furthermore, I'm all game for some added recoil reduction as well, but I'm not trying to necessarily maximize that. A 338 option would be great, but after a bit of research, it's obvious that's going to be another suppressor entirely, so 30 cal and down is sufficient.

Here are the things that I would envision that make an adapter more appealing, but not sure how valuable these really are:
1. The connection/disconnection is faster and probably a bit more robust.
2. Elimination of any chance of galling the barrel threads.
3. Less chance of working loose.

 

[Mike D Texas]

Okay, this thread has been awesome so far. Still pondering my options here and trying to decide how I want to go forward, as this will be my first suppressor. My question is, since most of these will be set up on hunting rigs, and I really want to keep the balance and feel as best as possible, what is the disadvantage of sticking with a direct thread option on the suppressor? Before you answer that, consider these criteria:
1. I will have barrel thread caps for the barrels that don't currently have the suppressor attached and have no intention of running with a muzzle brake, ever. I just don't like them. I've never gotten past the negatives that come with them. It's not just that I'm old school, I just think the negatives outweigh the positives for me personally.
2. I do believe, and one of the companies even mentions it with their "shorty" adapter I think it's called, but the suppression should be improved without a brake as there is more volume for the gas to do its thing in the first baffle location.
3. The first baffle should have less focused blast at certain locations, most likely improving durability. On a rifle not designed for high volume shooting, I'm not sure how much value this has, maybe a lot in the case of an overbore cartridge.
4. Trying to keep things light and as short as possible, I would think this the best option.
5. My main purpose for the suppressor is to reduce the vicious sound volume of a typical high powered rifle's shot, not really to take it to ear-safe levels, per say. Basically, I want the range experience to be more enjoyable, and the hunt experience to be acceptable for a single shot without hearing protection. Furthermore, I'm all game for some added recoil reduction as well, but I'm not trying to necessarily maximize that. A 338 option would be great, but after a bit of research, it's obvious that's going to be another suppressor entirely, so 30 cal and down is sufficient.

Here are the things that I would envision that make an adapter more appealing, but not sure how valuable these really are:
1. The connection/disconnection is faster and probably a bit more robust.
2. Elimination of any chance of galling the barrel threads.
3. Less chance of working loose.

Speaking from a perspective of owning about 12 cans, if I would start all over again; all of my bolt rifles would have a dedicated can per rifle and they would be direct thread.

I would likely keep my AR cans with QD mounts.

On a hunting rifle I've been moving to short, light and direct thread as I can.

 

[7.62 Gunner]

Okay, this thread has been awesome so far. Still pondering my options here and trying to decide how I want to go forward, as this will be my first suppressor. My question is, since most of these will be set up on hunting rigs, and I really want to keep the balance and feel as best as possible, what is the disadvantage of sticking with a direct thread option on the suppressor? Before you answer that, consider these criteria:
1. I will have barrel thread caps for the barrels that don't currently have the suppressor attached and have no intention of running with a muzzle brake, ever. I just don't like them. I've never gotten past the negatives that come with them. It's not just that I'm old school, I just think the negatives outweigh the positives for me personally.
2. I do believe, and one of the companies even mentions it with their "shorty" adapter I think it's called, but the suppression should be improved without a brake as there is more volume for the gas to do its thing in the first baffle location.
3. The first baffle should have less focused blast at certain locations, most likely improving durability. On a rifle not designed for high volume shooting, I'm not sure how much value this has, maybe a lot in the case of an overbore cartridge.
4. Trying to keep things light and as short as possible, I would think this the best option.
5. My main purpose for the suppressor is to reduce the vicious sound volume of a typical high powered rifle's shot, not really to take it to ear-safe levels, per say. Basically, I want the range experience to be more enjoyable, and the hunt experience to be acceptable for a single shot without hearing protection. Furthermore, I'm all game for some added recoil reduction as well, but I'm not trying to necessarily maximize that. A 338 option would be great, but after a bit of research, it's obvious that's going to be another suppressor entirely, so 30 cal and down is sufficient.

Here are the things that I would envision that make an adapter more appealing, but not sure how valuable these really are:
1. The connection/disconnection is faster and probably a bit more robust.
2. Elimination of any chance of galling the barrel threads.
3. Less chance of working loose.

Yep definitely DT on bolt guns, whatever can you go with make sure it's 1.7/1.8" diameter.
Volume =suppression 1.5" cans aren't ideal when considering volume vs length.

 

[Joefrazell]

That has never happened to me in the 12 years I've been hunting with mine.

What is silly to me is the ideas people get into their heads that have a likely .01% chance of happening.

What are you shooting that carbon fouls your suppressor so bad, at least in your

Smokeless powder is not clean. Look at the end of a muzzle break after a few shots and you will see my point. Arguing that having the option to clean is a negative thing only shows being biased towards what you have and that's fine but it's not truth.

 

[CA48]

I would stay away from user serviceable or modular cans.
If not taken apart every 40-50 rounds the threads carbon seize even with oil or anti seize. This happened with 2 of mine. They are not as strong as full welded cans and have longer min barrel length restrictions, which is an issue for me but won't be for everyone.

A direct thread can seems easiest and cheapest for bolt rifles. CB or Xeno mounts have more surface area and seem to lock up better with less torque but you also have to have a mount for ever rifle if don't want to move it over constantly.

Key mod, xeno, CB, and locking mounts are nice for ars. The cb has a replaceable o ring that keeps carbon from reaching the threads.

Ti cans are nice and light for hunting. Steel may be better for full auto and long strings.

Full welded Ti cans can be cleaned with clr.
Stainless the most effective method is probably the dip but it's toxic.
Aluminum cans such as some rimfire can't be cleaned with either.

That's while Il just stick with full welded ti cans from now on for bolt rifles.

I have never had an issue with carbon pieces or burnt powder kernels in the bore although I do find them occasionally in the action/barrel. After I shoot I just hold the rifle muzzle down a sec so if there is any in there it falls out.

My favorite hunting can right now is a gen 1 TBAC ultra 5.

My next can will be a TBAC dominus or a Dead air Nomad Ti.

My buddy just picked up a nomad 30 so Il be trying it when it arrives.

To the op my buddy has a sandman S they are nice my friend has no complaints and neither did I when using it. I was like you at first and wanted a user serviceable can but I wouldn't go that route now. If I could only have one it would be the nomad Ti or the dominus. I think they will be the best compromise of suppression, weight, and length for a bolt rifle set up for hunting.
Or just give in like the rest of us and get several cans.

 

[Northkill]

Smokeless powder is not clean. Look at the end of a muzzle break after a few shots and you will see my point. Arguing that having the option to clean is a negative thing only shows being biased towards what you have and that's fine but it's not truth.

Be glad to hear your personal suppressor experience with this sir. It's not about the "options to clean" as it is about the issues that come with the option. I'm not biased, just try to make the best choices to avoid regrets and frustrations. My position is based on my research with respectable & experienced suppressor users. Haven't regretted it yet.

 

[Mike D Texas]

Smokeless powder is not clean. Look at the end of a muzzle break after a few shots and you will see my point. Arguing that having the option to clean is a negative thing only shows being biased towards what you have and that's fine but it's not truth.

I never said it was clean but as I said in 12 years of shooting multiple suppressors I've never had an issue with carbon.

You are obviously biased toward user serviceable and that's fine. I think it's worthless, unnecessary and creates more issues than it solves but you do whatever makes you feel comfortable.