Which Savage 243 for practice and deer?

[CleanShot]

Hello

I just bought a Savage 111LHR chambered in a 7RM. I'm now looking for something with less kick and cheaper ammo for practicing marksmanship that could also possibly double as a deer rifle. I thought I'd get another Savage so I'm dealing with a similar system. Does anyone have any recommendations on which savage would be appropriate? I'm thinking 10, 11, 12, or 16 but even then they have a few variations.

Thanks!

 

[Hirschi1]

If your looking to train on the 243 to prep for the 7RM, then look for a model that has the some feel, weight, and length. You might consider a model 12 Varmint. If you want a lighter rifle to carry in the rockies, look at the model 10 trophy hunter.

"Shoot Straight"
Steve

 

[davkrat]

No advice on the model for Savages but wanted to support your round choices. I have a 7mm Rem Mag and am developing a .243 load that mimics my 7 mag load almost perfectly. I plan to get a 26" .243 barrel to swap on to my 700 action the 7mag is currently on. I already have the standard bolt face bolt. I'm hoping that H1000 will do double duty for both cartridges. I currently have a take off .243 barrel I installed on my .308 but want to practice with the exact scope, stock and trigger of my 7mag with the lighter recoiling .243. My .308 is a light compact with lower power scope that is set up for carrying in heavy brush for hogs. The 7mag and eventually .243 is my dedicated long range rig. Two great choices if you ask me.

 

[Hirschi1]

I agree, two great choices. You might want to talk to others who have had switch barrel rifles. I had one for about a year. (Got another action and have never looked back.) Got tired of changing scope adjustments with each barrel switch. If you have two different scopes of the same make and model on top of quick release bases and rings. It might be more realistic. Switch barrel rifles are a great idea, however come with their own set of Pros and Cons.

"Shoot Straight"
Steve

 

[davkrat]

Yeah I currently have my guns set up with multiple barrels. I agree it's not the type of thing you just swap and run, takes a bit of time to get the zero set. I figure with the 7mm vs .243 though I'll likely have the .243 on 9+ months out of the year. I've stockpiled about 600 bullets for the 7mag and probably will never shoot them up if that's the case. Might never wear out that barrel. I'm planing on ordering a ER Shaw and buying my own reamer so I can set up the .243 with a 26" fast twist to stabilize the 105 Berger VLD's. That way the barrels will be easily replaceable every other year or so. 7mags and .243's seem to have similar life expectancies. The .243 seems to be a Mini-Me version of a 7mag.

Sorry for the hijack but on a Savage action a switch barrel is even easier. Just have to be aware it won't be as simple as shoot 10 rounds of one, swap the barrel and shoot 10 rounds of the next. There's some tweaking involved, recording the scope adjustments between barrels will get you close but not perfect in my experience.

 

[CleanShot]

Are you guys suggesting a switch barrel is a better choice? I thought for sure two separate rifles would be the better way to go.

 

[Hirschi1]

I'm not suggesting that!

 

[davkrat]

That's up to you to decide. Just saying of all the action types the Savage is the easiest to set up as a switch barrel. If you only have one gun than by all means I won't argue with buying another.

 

[CleanShot]

I'd prefer purchasing a new rifle and not dealing with changing barrels and scopes etc.

 

[Hirschi1]

The Items needed for a savage switch barrel rifle system would be something like this;

1- Barrel vise.
2- Action vise.
3- Barrel nut wrench.
4- Go gauge 243 win and no go gauge if you like.
5- Go gauge 7mm RM and no go gauge if you like.
6- Standard bolt face.
7- Magnum bolt face.

Am I missing anything else?

Look at the list, then think about the process. It becomes a chore!

On the other had if you started with a magnum action you have two other options.

1st option:
Have both barrels head spaced with a permanent shoulder meeting at the recoil lug/action (Like Remington.) You could do without items;
2, 3 (instead of a nut wrench would use a action wrench), 4, and 5. then you would need a standard bolt.

2nd option:
copy and paste this address
http://www.randyscustomrifles.com/take_down_rifles.html

or option 3:

Buy two rifles.

Hirschi1

 

[CleanShot]

Trust me I want two rifles not a barrel switch. I'm not sure how this thread evolved into being about a barrel switch setup. All I really want is help selecting which 110 series (10, 11, 12, 14, 16) rifle to purchase

 

[Hirschi1]

Check these out.

This rifle would probably match in weight of the 111 LRH 7 mm you have. it does have a 22 inch barrel. It will feel a bit different.
Savage Arms

This rifle has a sporter weight barrel. You will feel much difference.
Savage Arms

This rifle would feel the most like your 111 LRH with the execption of the check pcs.
Savage Arms

Good luck.
Hirschi1

 

[davkrat]

I was under the impression that a strap wrench to hold the barrel and a barrel but wrench are all that is needed to pull a Savage barrel.

 

[CleanShot]

Check these out.

This rifle would probably match in weight of the 111 LRH 7 mm you have. it does have a 22 inch barrel. It will feel a bit different.
Savage Arms

This rifle has a sporter weight barrel. You will feel much difference.
Savage Arms

This rifle would feel the most like your 111 LRH with the execption of the check pcs.
Savage Arms

Good luck.
Hirschi1

That 10 Predator Hunter was my top pick. I figured the weight and length most closely match and the 24" barrel would help stabilize the bullet.