Which brand reloading equipment?

[kevral]

I am finally getting around to buying reloading equipment, and wonder if there is any specific brand I should go for--or avoid?
Any other things I need to think about when buying, such as things I need that the seller won't know about or things he will want to sell me that I don't need?

Thanks,
Kev

 

[Guest]

Kevral--
If you are reloading for rifle calibers only and are after good accuracy, I would suggest a good O type press like the RCBS Rockchucker or Redding Boss. A digital scale is much more convienient than a balance beam so go ahead and get one up front and don't waste your money.Pact or RCBS are both good.(Pact makes both). The Redding 3BR competition powder measure is hard to beat for the money. A good set of calipers is also a must. Don't forget the little things like case prep tools, powder funnel, and loading blocks. I also recommend the excellent Stony Point Chamber-all tool and the matching Comparator with inserts. If you get a kit, the Rockchucker kit is the most complete, but comes with a balance beam scale. Stay with quality dies like RCBS or Redding. Forster also makes good dies. Good Luck and have fun/be safe!

 

[ricciardelli]

If you go for the RCBS Rockchucker Master Reloading Kit and the RCBS Accessory Kit you will have all the basics you need to start reloading.

But naturally, after a little time you will more than triple the cost of those two kits in "extra stuff".

 

[Nighthawk]

I have the RCBS Mater Reloading kit and I highly recommend it.

 

[Delta Hunter]

The RCBS Kit would probably serve you well. However, if you can afford it I think you would be better served by buying individual pieces from various manufacturers. I like to buy what I think would be best (or at least better) for each individual reloading task. I don't have the absolute best equipment in the world, but what I have serves me well.

Here's what I have and recommend:

Forster Co-Ax press
Forster full length sizing dies
Forster Ultra seater dies
Lee Collet neck dies
RCBS APS hand primer
Redding No. 2 Master scale
Lee Perfect powder measure
Redding powder trickler
Wilson case trimmer
Sinclair Primer pocket uniformer
Sinclair Flash hole deburring tool
Wilson case mouth deburring tool
RCBS case neck brushes
6" Dial Calipers
Saunders powder funnel
Imperial Sizing die wax
VibraShine case tumbler
Sinclair loading blocks
Quinetics bullet puller
Sinclair concentricity guage

I'm sure I've probably left something off, but that's the bulk of it. Again, the RCBS kit would be a nice economical way to begin reloading. They make quality equipment and they stand behind it. However, if you can afford it, I think buying each piece individually is better in the long run. If you decide to do that, I recommend ordering from Sinclair Int'l. You can call them and talk to someone who reloads and knows what he's talking about. You won't simply be talking to an order taker who's uneducated about reloading. That's what I did when I got started and I am very grateful for their assistance. They won't sell you what you don't need (not all of the items I listed above are needed to get started).

Lastly, I prefer a good balance beam scale to a digital. I've got both, but I do all my powder weighing on my Redding balance beam and use my Pact digital for weighing bullets and cases. I don't have enough confidence in the digital to weigh powder charges because it's too erratic and not sensitive enough. Recently, for example, I turned the Pact digital on and let it sit for about an hour (it is necessary to turn it on at least 20 or 30 minutes prior to using it so it can warm up) and then after calibrating it, I individually weighed 21 powder charges for the 7.65 Argentine Mauser I was loading for. I was using 47 grains of IMR 4350. When I was finished, I recalibrated the scale and re-weighed the powder in a few of the cases I had just filled. Guess what? Now they weighed anywhere from 47.5 to 48 grains. So, I won't use the digital ever again for weighing powder as I have very little confidence in it. The balance beam is always true, however, and quicker anyway.

Sorry, I've been a little long winded, but I hope I have been of some help. Good luck to you.