Where to level?!

Ucsdryder

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Jan 23, 2016
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This whole **** thing is round. It seems semi flat where the level is in the picture. Or right behind the action where the bolt handle goes it looks semi flat. How do I level this thing?!
 

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Ucsdryder

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Across the ring bases seems fairly consistent but they aren’t perfect. The spot on the back seems like my best option but I need to remove the stock or it hits the stock before the metal.
 

74honker

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I'm assuming you're trying to set your level for mounting your scope and reticle alignment? Looks like my wheeler set. Set the small level on the flat spot on the back ring where it screws to reciever. Assuming you have the bases down tight already. Then set the front clamp on level to your barrel and make them match per the instructions in your kit. Once you have that then set the scooe in the rings and put that small level on top of the elevation knob and it's done. IF you can somehow clamp the stock down to your sled to keep the jiggles out while doing all this it helps emensely. I use shims vertically along side the butt, not perfect but helps keep the whole thing steadier in the sled while you're trying to square up the rest of it.
 

FEENIX

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This whole **** thing is round. It seems semi flat where the level is in the picture. Or right behind the action where the bolt handle goes it looks semi flat. How do I level this thing?!
Do you only have one level? I have a few different types of levels for different types of actions. The one you are showing normally goes on top of a turret—another reason why I use Picatinny rail. I use at least two levels - one for the action and another for the scope.
 

jimbires

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clearfield county , Pa
I don't use levels . I try to eyeball it until it looks good , then I do a tall target and make it perfect .


 

bill123

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Jun 14, 2013
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This is your huckleberry........

Yup. My bench end is against a wall. I have a level line on the wall. When I use this device, I move the butt end of the rifle close to the wall, turn off the lights and shine a bright flashlight through the objective lens of the scope. It puts a magnified image of the reticle on the wall. Move the image over the level line. You can now get the scope body, bore and reticle all plumb. If I put a scope level on the scope, I level it at this point too.
 

Mikecr

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What is it you're trying to set as plumb here & why?
That is, which of rest, stock, action, bases, rings, scope turrets, scope reticle, scope elevation adjustment, barrel/load tune?
 

hadjii

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Sep 25, 2012
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Iowa
I don't use levels . I try to eyeball it until it looks good , then I do a tall target and make it perfect .


Yep. Exactly. I have 2 different levels. A weaver and wheeler. Tried em' both, and found they're not near as accurate as my own eyes.
 

TheLongRanger83702

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Feb 20, 2015
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Idaho
This whole **** thing is round. It seems semi flat where the level is in the picture. Or right behind the action where the bolt handle goes it looks semi flat. How do I level this thing?!
Put your rifle securely in a vice. Move as needed in levelling. Lay a 10" piece of machine bar stock, resting a level on top of it, across and off either side of that rear tab on the rear scope ring shown just thin enough to clear the underside of your scope that you're mounting. Level the scope crosshairs using a plumbline on a wall 20 yards out as your scope external surfaces may not be square with the scope internals using a second level on those.
 

Alibiiv

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This whole **** thing is round. It seems semi flat where the level is in the picture. Or right behind the action where the bolt handle goes it looks semi flat. How do I level this thing?!

I've encountered the same situation with a Wheeler leveler and kit. Something that I have been using with good results is the EXD Engineering Vertical Reticle Instrument that I got from Brownells. For me the tool does make sense, I use it with a Tipton vise and a vertical line that I drew with a level on the basement wall. The same system could be used with a Tipton vise and a plumb bob setup at the range. The tool does allow aligning the centerline of the scope with the centerline of the bore and then the vertical reticle gets set in the scope rings. Again for me it makes sense and is a whole lot easier to use then the levels that work off of the receiver.

 
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