Where does one start?


Jun 22, 2007
South Africa (Cape Town)
I have posted on the forum asking about 135gr SMKs in my 270 and their suitability on game. My questions were more than answered and the desire to hunt at longer ranges is growing BUT I do not think I have the right rig to go up to genuine long range. I am not going to mention the scope because it will have to be changed but I will describe my two rifles. My 243 is a South African Musgrave Vrystaat with an RSA action on a box magazine. Heavy barrel with a 1/10 twist. I am currently shooting 85gr SMK (moly) in FC Brass with CCI BR primers and 41gr of S355 (local propellant). They travel at 3300 fps and I am getting 1/2 inch groups at 100m. My other rifle is a 270 with an Anschutz barrel on a Savage 110 action. I am loading 135gr SMK into PMC brass with 55 gr S365 propellant using CCI BR primers. These travel at 2950 fps and also give 1/2 inch at 100m (this rifle also has a 1/10 twist). I do not intend changing these rifles BUT would like to get the best out of them. Where do I start? I know this is a very broad question but you all started somewhere and I see no need to forge a new path where others have gone before. Any advice would be of great help.

ol mike

Well-Known Member
Aug 21, 2005
Back in the south -NW FL..
Hello Dave ,

A good scope doesn't have to be expensive w/ that said == that's the place to start.

A nikon 6 x 18 nikon buckmaster is -for the money a very good scope.

Since you do handload -test your loads at longrange to see how well the rifle will group at 300/400/500 yards/meters.
At the same time although in smaller increments [every 50 yds/meters] you can log/document your drops/trajectory.

You can go the mil-dot route or get a rangefinder and turn clicks on the turret of the scope.

A good field rest is very important -it must be chosen with regard to the conditions you will hunt in.If your terrain is brushy and will give you no visability when laying down -a bi-pod will be useless to you.
I can't emphasize enough the importance of a rock steady rest when taking a longrange shot in the field !!!

Get a good rest and scope then get out and start working on your loads and document a drop chart for each rifle.
Don't try to start out running -walk then jog then run it takes time and money .
As far as smk's on game many like them but the general concensus i get is smk's on game is the 30 cal and up size.
Bottom line is -you send a 135gr smk through the heart of an animal =it's dead but there are bullets that will perform better.

I'd say a 270 win is a 600yd rifle on deer size game -just an opinion- and of coarse that depends on whether your rifle will group well enough to consistently hit the vitals at that range.

Mainly just start sending some bullets downrange and getting some trigger time at longrange and document your drop chart.

Best of luck -Mike


Well-Known Member
Jan 20, 2004
Blackfoot, Idaho
Howdy Dave,

What started me going was finding this board. I dug the ol/270 Win (Mauser Action, Douglas Premium 26" bbl and Fajen thumb hole stock). Had been using it for 30 years on yotes, chucks, mule deer and one very unlucky moose.

I set a paper plate at 300 yds and started shooting my old trusty standard load. 130gr Sierra Boat Tail and way too much IMR 4350). Average MV was right around 3190. Accounted for many yotes and a bunch of deer.

Well, guess what? Years of that extra 4350 did the poor barrel in. I could barely keep the shots on that paper plate @ 300. Took a look at the throat...no rifling for quite a ways up the barrel.

Sent the barreled action off and had a 27" Lilja barrel in 270 Win. Now she's shooting really well with 140 Hornady Interlocks and RL-22 again at 3200 MV.
I worked up the drop charts and started stretching things. Before I transferred ownership of the rifle to my son, 1 gallon milk jugs were dead meat at 640 yards. I'd say that the cartrige has the umph for deer sized animals as far as 800 yards, my confidence begins to wain at 700 yards, just on the energy levels.

The 270 Win will stretch out more than one would think.

Key to the system would be immediately after fine tuning the rifle for max velocity and accuracy, the addition of a good scope. There are many to choose from. I would be good to get one with target turrets calibrated in the same units as the retical (MOA & MOA/MIL & MIL) Mine has an MOA reticle and MOA turrets - what a bummer!

Also clarity is as important as power regarding the scope.

RE: your velocity of 2950 MV. Thats about typical published data on the Winnie. However, with Winchester brass you may be able to get a boost in velocity. (harder brass and greater capacity). I'm assuming that the brass you are using is a bit soft. I know nothing about teh brass you are using but, hey, a fella has to have an opinion about everything.:rolleyes:

BTW, I gave the Win to my son as it had a right handed thumb hole stock and I had to switch to left hand shooting. It was a good excuse to make the move to a 270 Allen Mag.;)

Good luck with your progress. Keep us posted......