what vanes to use

[infantrysold]

thanks super 91 i am done testing now and shooting because of hunting season starts in the AM i will be useing the areovanes this year next who knows if you get anymore info on diff vanes let me know thanks alot for your time travis

 

[WildWillie]

How did you find out that one of the spacers was missing? Was this through working with the PSE Product Support engineer?

Jon -

I found the problem after evaluating the limbs/cams after the string jumped off. I noticed I could slide the right cam up and down on the pin just a bit. I mentioned it to PSE and he said that those plastic spacers to sometimes break after a string derailment.

I used a washer to make up the new shim.

I just got the x-bow re-string and cams aligned, but ran out of time to fire. So I will test tomorrow.

Willie

 

[jon.henry755]

Thanks Willie,

Keep me posted on how you make out after your shooting tomorrow. My guess is your xbow will now shoot the way you've been expecting it to, since the cams can no longer cause any alignment problems.

Jon

 

[WildWillie]

Jon -

Finally made it outside to test this morning and things are looking up. After about 30 minutes I was shooting bullet holes through paper with an unfletched shaft and proceded to sight it back in.

I have only shot out to 40 yds so far, but the groups are staying pretty tight.

Two issues that did come up and I've found the problem to one of them.

1st - I had one of the nocks break apart today which ruined the shaft. It turned out that there is a special serving between the "D" loop string which has a specific orientation. On my previous string this was very tight and took effort to move. The new string it is looser and has flipped around between shots. I did not notice when I nocked the arrow and when I shot it shattered the knock. It was when I went to knock the next arrow that I found it was turned backwards and therefore did not allow the knock to seat tight against the string (It is imperative to have the knock seated tightly against the string !!! ) This may be the root of problems that others were having that prompted Firenocks post about collars.

2nd Problem I am having is based on grouping. I usually shoot 5 - 6 arrows at the target with the same aiming point (At > 40 yds) On a few occasions I will end up with 2 groups with one being centered at the aiming point and the other about 6" low. It does not happen every time, but I have had instances with 3 arrows dead on and 3 arrows 6" low(Both groups are tight, but they are 2 distinct groups)
To me it seems like the scope or mount is loose somewhere and slipping from one position to another. I had seen this before I changed strings and fixed the cam spacer problem.

I checked all screws and everything is tight. The only thing I can see is a little movement from the HHA Optimizer mount when I put downward pressure on the front of the scope, but as soon as I release pressure it returns back to normal position. Not sure if that is the cause or not. I did read in another post a while ago about some of the early HHA Optimizers having a manufacturing problem. So this is still an issue.

Next up is broadhead testing at 40 yds then take it back to 60yds.

WildWillie

 

[jon.henry755]

Hi WildWillie,
In one of my previous articles related to tuning your crossbow, I made mention that I found it necessary to use a piece of serving o dental floss to lock the serving inside the D-Loop in place. I believe I call in tying the D-Loop in place to prevent any rotation or movement.

The serving that you are referring to can be screwed left or right when you are paper tuning your crossbow. The problem is that if you don't lock it in place, it will continue to move as you shoot from the momentum of the cable on arrow launches. This could easily change your center shot and undo the paper tuning. My suggestion is that you make sure this serving is in its proper place and then lock it down by serving both the left and right sides of it with a small piece of waxed floss or serving.

On the two group problem I would first make sure that my Optimizer Base Screws and my Scope Rings are good and tight. If that doesn't solve the problem, I'v had this happen to me before I added the check rest to my stock. I was having a similar problem, but mine was coming from not aligning the stock to the exact same spot on my face each time. It turned out to be affecting how close my eye was to the scopes lens. This was costing me a couple of inches of elevation at 60 yards or greater. I haven't had the problem since I added the check-rest.

Jon

 

[WildWillie]

Jon -

Thanks for the tips on both issues. There does not seem to be any room for that serving to move inside the D-Loop, but I will take your advice and lock it in place.

I've checked and double checked all the mounting screws on the scope and nothing is loose there. Adding a cheek piece seems like a sound solution. I've wanted to change the back end for a while now as I cannot get a natural/comfortable mount with the scope sitting higher on the HHA.

Also it seems I've been able to remove the string jump by pushing the cranking string to the right when I 1st start cranking (About the 1st 3 inches). That seems to get the string to not bunch up on the left side of the spool and cause the jump. After about 60 shots yesterday I only had the string jump when I did not apply right pressure OR held right pressure too long.

Another thing that causes that string to jump is if you take the upper off and look at the gears, the small gear (The one on the crank shaft) has a small pin that goes through it and a small set screw to hold it in place. Twice I've found that pin sticking out on one side or another about 1/8" and the set screw loose. When that happens it tends to prevent the string from distributing over the spool equally. If it happens again I'm gonna lock tight the screw.

WildWillie