Hey guys, Xbow755 asked me to come by and share some of the data I had in hopes you might be able to benefit some.
First off, paper tune your bow. Adjust the nocking point left or right till it appears to be in the center of the track in the rail. Do this just by eye to start. Then load and arrow, bring the bow to full draw and engage the safety. Now sight down on top of the shaft to see that it is lined up in the groove in the rail and is parallel with that. Also, if the cocking sled is riding to one side of the rail or the other when you cock the bow, you are not in the center.
Now shoot through paper with a bare shaft. I most often get a tail low, point high tear with a brand new TAC out of the box. I have tuned 3 brand new TACs over the past several days and all were just like this. Move the rest up in this case, opposite if you are tail high. Don't chase your tail with the rest......that is a little humor there....
Once you get the perfect bullet hole, and I mean perfect because I have not set up one single TAC at this point that did not achieve this, you will be ready for the next step. One other thing to do is make sure the string is in spec as far as cam lean and axle to axle. If these are not right you will have a harder time getting that perfect bullet hole.
Now I have tested and am testing a number of different fletchings on the TAC shafts. There is a whole lot to learn first about indexing the shafts and checking the spine and all that. Xbow755 is extremely well versed in that and maybe has expounded on that here on the forum. If not, go read some of the article Xbow755 has written on the subject.
First off, if you want to know if the fletchings are hitting the cables, as you crank the bow back very slowly, watch and you will see if they do. If they do not as you crank it back, they will not as the arrow goes forward. Some bows sit differently when in perfect tune so it is possible for one bow to not hit and the next to be hitting the cables. One bow I tuned the other day had the biscuit at the lowest setting before the bow was in perfect tune. The next one was all the way at the top.
I do not have time to expound on the subject a ton this morning, but will get back more later.
Xbow755 is right on the money with the Scorpion Venom biscuit spray. It must be a silicon based spray that lubricates the bristles and waterproofs them somewhat, but also makes them extremely "slippery" on one another. This makes them get out the way of one another when there is fletching contact. There is much less wear on vanes when I am using this product.
The 60x120 is the only fletching config you can use unless you machine the front part of the picatinny rail off the bow and use the HHA Optimizer to mount your scope on. I have done so as a few others and this allows us to use any standard 3 fletch config at this point. But if you have not done so, the 60x120 is what you want to use.
The factory Duravane 3-D in 3" is one of the best performers out of the box so-to-speak. It works like it is supposed to. But Dorge's Aerovane II' work very well too. I have also tried NAP Quik Spin Speed Hunters in 2", Flex-fletch, Fusion vanes, Blazer vanes, and a few others.
I am just now testing the 3 fletch config and have 4 sets of shafts fletched up with a straight offset instead of the standard straight but I have not shot these. I plan on doing that on Thursday and Friday in hopes I can find one that works even better than the straight fletch.
Dorge's Aerovane II fletched with only 2 vanes and fletched 180 degrees from one another also worked very well, so well I hunted with them last year. But he had to make some slight changes to the design and now it does not work quite as well. That was really fun to shoot when it did.
I will get back on here at a later date and continue my findings on the subject.
