What does a slightly higher scope height do?

[gwcracker]

Typically I run low rings but on my new rifle the scope was hitting the scope rail before I got proper eye relief. With mediums i am able to get proper eye relief but the scope (50mm bell with 30mm tube) sits a decent amount above the barrel. What exactly does that do? The bottom of the 50mm bell is about 3/8ths inch from the barrel.

What gun and what rail. If the rail is there in place of standard bases and if it runs under the scope bell, saw it off where the bell wont hit it.

 

[Bigeclipse]

What gun and what rail. If the rail is there in place of standard bases and if it runs under the scope bell, saw it off where the bell wont hit it.

It is a browning hellcanyon McMillan with the rail that comes from the factory. The medium rings actually feel ok as far as cheek weld goes I was more concerned about what it means as far as long range shooting goes.

 

[CVCOBRA1]

The same for rails on the Tikka rifles. You can buy a receiver length rail or an extended rail which sticks out over the front of the receiver. On short tube scopes it will always cause a problem. Never understood the need for an extended rail.

 

[BKM]

The same for rails on the Tikka rifles. You can buy a receiver length rail or an extended rail which sticks out over the front of the receiver. On short tube scopes it will always cause a problem. Never understood the need for an extended rail.

Input ur scope height in ur ballistic app and ur good to go.
Also, if ur scope seems a little too high for comfort build the comb of ur stock up a little.

 

[DWier]

Input ur scope height in ur ballistic app and ur good to go.
Also, if ur scope seems a little too high for comfort build the comb of ur stock up a little.

Take your gun to the range, develop your dope, record it, learn it and move on. Forget about everything else. Once you know your gun, scope and your dope nothing else matters. Enjoy.

 

[SMK1000plus]

If the scope is making contact with the front end of the rail, can you cut the rail back a notch or two without causing any problems? I did that with a chop saw and a file, didn't need that much rail anyway.

Exactly! I like to maintain a tight cheekweld and keep my neck straight up. No cheating my head forward! That allows me to acquire moving targets quickly, judge level better on the fly and estimate range changes on moving targets, with my non-scope eye. In order to accomplish this, my scopes are mounted further to the rear than most.

I have a lot of rifles. I use all kinds of brands, models and action lengths. I nearly always use 20 MOA to 40 MOA Picatinny rail mounts, zero stress epoxy bedded to my rifle. Some are Nightforce, some Seekins, some EGW, some Warne, a couple are Badger. I cut nearly all of them, either even with the front of the receiver, or one bar In front of the forward most mounting screw. Sometimes I even need to diegrind a beveled area at the top front of the cut rail, tapered all the way to the front screw. Then I use Dura-Bake Matte Black per directions, to refinish the front of the base. This method has given me the most adjustment range I can get with a particular base, protects the base and still looks good. Many of my scopes are slided back to where the objective bell just clears the altered base.

Works great for me. YMMV

Kevin

 

[Rich Coyle]

Your apparent trajectory will be minimally better. I and Barnes proved it by testing the same rifle with different scope heights.