Weatherby Vanguard Free Float the Forearm ?

Iron Worker

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Weatherby on their website says No to free floating a barrel under#3 contour . My Vanguard has a #2 (22/250)contour. I'm awaiting shipment on a Bell & Carlson medalist stock. This rifle with tupperware stocks surpasses their guarantee of 3 shots MOA at 100 yds . Thinking maybe I should just pillar bed it and be done with it ? What say ya'll ?
 
I have an older Howa which is essentially the Vanguard, with a #2 or 3 contour. It came with the plastic stock and shot just under an inch. I ordered a Bell & Carlson for it and it shot worse. Then I floated the barrel and I am under a 1/2 inch with most loads I can work up for it.

I have seen some shoot really well with no float but most do better with a free float in my experience. I would just shoot it first and see, then do what you need to do.

As an aside, my original stock shot really well once I floated it but it was too flexible before the float for a bipod and was really too flexible afterwards. I got funky flyers when shooting from a bipod on anything but level ground. I wanted to try this MatchGrade Synthetic Stock Stabilizer - Terminal Ballistic Research to firm up the stock and then bed it with this MatchGrade Bedding Kit - Terminal Ballistics Research to see what kind of a cheap but good stock I could make. My feeling is that it would have done a fine job at making the original stock into a real shooter.
 
I would start with a well bedded action, and the barrel free floated. If it did not meet my accuracy expectation, I would add layers of tape at the fore-end beginning with just contact, up to "significant" pressure. A layer or 2 at a time, test and add or subtract as groups indicate.
 
My 300 Weatherby Vanguard responded well to free floating. It was about a inch or slightly bigger, now it's sub easily....
Check out the Score High Pillar Bedding Kit on Midway. It was the easiest pillar bed I have ever done.
 
I have several Wby Vanguards. All but one has been bedded and free floated in a B&C Medalist, and they all shoot exceptionally well with factory ammo. The only one not done is one in 223 that is one of their Sub-MOA models. It shoots so well it is the only one I left alone.

So, were it me, I would bed it, freee float it, and then find the load it likes.
 
Well My B&C stock arrived today,and is at gunsmith getting bedded and free floated. Paperwork included in box said if front pillars are removed ,warranty is voided. Oh well .....
 
Well I have the rifle back from Gunsmith. Wanted him to bed it and free float it. I can't slip any paper at all between the BBL and forearm. But its glass bedded .It's a Bell & Carlson medalist. What tool should I get that I can open up the forearm myself ?
 
Well I have the rifle back from Gunsmith. Wanted him to bed it and free float it. I can't slip any paper at all between the BBL and forearm. But its glass bedded .It's a Bell & Carlson medalist. What tool should I get that I can open up the forearm myself ?

Did he bed the entire barrel? If so, you might want to shoot it first and see what happens.

I use a dowel or a deep well socket of the right size. You can wrap them in sandpaper then, and slowly remove material. The nice thing about sockets is that you can move up in size as needed, but be careful to sand in straight lines. It's easy to remove too much from one side of the barrel channel.

I usually put blue masking tape along the horizontal edge of the stock. I can watch it to be sure I don't remove too much, and I also then mark on the tape where my paper "sticks" when I test fit it. It's a pain to test fit it many times, but it works.

Afterwards I then Saran Wrap and tape up the stock, and paint the inner barrel channel with satin black or whatever color with match or contrast well with the outer color of the stock. This helps seal the channel, as you will end up sanding through the "skin" that B&C molds into it.
 
I'd shoot it just for reference.

What be said!

Some smiths don't believe in free foating.

Tools:

Blue tape to protect the stock.
120/grit sand paper.
Dowel and fingers.
Time.

You will probably remove and install the action 4 or 5 times. Remember to fully torque when testing fit/float.
 
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