Weatherby Rounds!

On lead bullets I use the FCD to remove any remaining part of expanded case mouth for the lead bullets. In the magnums I shoot there has been no set back problem. It's a point here to load for the magazine of the rifle. Reloads are run though the magazine to assure no set back and reliable feeding.
 
Only have bigger Weatherbys, 340, 375Wtb, 378Wtb.
Use Barnes bullets (no tip deformation) and Fac. Crimp them all.
340 , .240"@100mtr's the other 2 not so working on the 378 but she is a handful
 
if you are looking for accuracy, trim cases to the .001, if you are going to crimp. Crimp adds another mystery factor into the equation.

It is generally accepted that crimp destroys accuracy in a super accurate rifle.

I have had weatherby's, never knew they needed crimping, and I would have sold the gun if they needed crimping.

I do crimp 30/30, 35 Rem, and 444 Marlin, 357 mags selectively for Marlins only.

Keith
How would selling the gun solve a issue with crimping ??
Different loads ,different projectiles , etc would make a lot more sense,
And if you had weatherbys and never knew about crimps ?
All heavy kicking rifles need some form of crimp , one way or another,
And in a super accurate rifle crimping does make a big difference in accuracy ,it helps keep ones SD's ES small in all rifles I have worked with , so could you explain how it doesn't and how it (destroys) accuracy, I've been loading for over 50 years and have shot professionally most of it , so my rifles and loads need to be very accurate and crimping has definitely been a help with just about all I load , only rounds I don't crimp are for single shot black powder , .45/70 my Sharps creedmore and Springfield Trapdoor
Cheers Paul
 
i know a lot if not most on here don't think you need a crimp on your handloads.....BUT, in the nosler manual and from another buddy of mine, both seem to think the Weatherby rounds do better with a factory crimp on them, the nosler manual doesn't say this for other rounds, so I was wondering if anyone has any experience/advice with the Weatherby reloading and if crimping is something I want to do with them, I shoot a 300 and a 257 Weatherby so it's not like it would be a lot to pick up two lee factory crimp dies. Any info is appreciated
I shoot a 300 wby. I have shot up to 210 Berger's and my hunting loads are 180 SST. If there is a grove I use it. Especially on hunting loads where they will be loaded in the mag and could/will suffer recoil. I have never measured to see if the bullets in the mag seating depth was changed during firing but, why risk it. For paper punching I see no need just load 1 shoot repeat.
 
I have had two Weatherby rifles, 257 Weatherby, and 270 Weatherby. both shot extremely well with factory rounds so I bought them for a little while, then I had the bright idea to reload for them. this turned out to be where my real passion for long range accuracy came from. both would keep just about 0.800" to 0.900" groups with factory ammo. I tried reloading the 257 and got some really great results with nosler partitions and H-1000/H-4831. the same can be said for the 270. 120 grain for the 257 and 160 grain with the 270. I was keeping 1" at 200 to 250 yards with both rifles. I tried to crimp the rounds and it did me no good. the groups opened up to approximately 3" at 250 yards. I went back to not crimping and went back to sub-1/2 MOA.
 
If you decide to start crimping you'll have to be certain ALL your brass is no longer than the shortest case in the bunch. Otherwise you're going to have a huge mess on your hands.
 
I am by no means a expert but I like the idea of the Lee FC die because it crimps at a 90 deg.angle to the centerline( like a lathe or drill chuck) of the casing,and therefore don't push the shoulder down!!
So a SLIGHT variation of the case length becomes less critical.
 
I don't crimp any of my rifle cartridges. 22-250, 243, 25-06, 30-06, 300 WM, 300 RUM and 338 Edge. When I first started reloading my rifle cartridges vacillated over crimp/no crimp. At that time most of what I read indicated that no crimp yielded the best accuracy. I like that thought. I did measure a lot of last round in the magazine cartridges. Never found any that had moved in an amount that I could measure with a caliper or micrometer. I don't bother to measure any more. One thing that I do to help consistency in neck tension is use Imperial graphite powder on the inside of the necks of my cases.
Pistol cartridges are the same. I was a competitive shooter for a long time and NEVER had a bullet move forward to stop the cylinder. Just my experience and your mileage may vary. When I was shooting a lot, I reloaded right at or slightly more than ten thousand rounds of 38 and 45 combined. I usually had one or two problems a year with my pistol cartridges and most of those involved a primer upside down in the case.
I have recently started shooting two of the most inaccurate rifles I have ever owned. One is an AR 15 and the other is an LR 10. I am just starting to load for those two rifles and I am strongly considering using a crimp on the cartridges. I believe that there is no room for a malfunction in these two weapons and to the extent possible I want these to be more reliable than accurate. I believe these two rifles only need to be accurate to three hundred yards and that accuracy is not as small as the the area of a game animal.
 
t used to be a rule of thumb, crimp all hunting ammo, do not crimp benchrest and F-Class. You carry a box of hunting ammo in the bush, bounce it in the truck, on the horse, it needs to be solid. You clear the rifle, you don't want the bullet to get stuck to lands and powder spilled everywhere. Most of my friends crimp, my PRC rifle shooters friends crimp too. The trick is to be CONSISTENT. :)
 
Data I have says that lead core Bullets shoot smaller groups with a crimp if you can't load them long enough to get close to the rifling. Most Weatherby's have a long throat, so I'd bet you're in that boat. Try a crimp & compare how it groups at the same charge weight & cartridge length with & without crimp..
 
I've been handloading for my Weatherby 300's for years. I shoot some hot loads using RL22 or Norma MRP. I usually use a 165 grain bullet with velocities over 3400 fps for muleys. I use rcbs dies and don't crimp. I crimp all my handgun loads and have never crimped my rifle loads.
 
Why is this only a Weatherby phenomena? It's a bottle nosed rifle brass like every other in the world. This topic is no more relevant to Weatherby's than any other bottle necked rifle case.
 
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