Weatherby Rounds!

S.T. Thanks for the data!

I totally agree with you but try to find High BC bullets with Canelures any more. Most are flat base when and if you can find them.

I still use them when I can find them in some of my rifles but they are for short range use normally.

Like everything else in this sport, I/we have to look at all possibilities when seeking the best performance in a rifle. crimping or not is just one of those.

J E CUSTOM

Completely agree. The possibilities point is why I'm rarely an absolutist when it comes to shooting and hunting. So many things to try and learn.
 
I was using my ole faithful ( model 94) 30-30 couple of years ago and this was Remington cor-lokt 150gr.and was putting 4 into the magazine.Well,I did the same cartridges over and over for 3 or 4 days,because I hadn't seen anything to shoot.I noticed that one of the bullets had been pushed back into the case neck really far.So even the factory ammo can have a bad crimp.So check your ammo folks.
 
I bought a newly re-chambered rifle once that had a sharp edge left in it and the case mouth would catch when I chambered a round. It wasn't bad but it was annoying so I set the die to crimp the mouth and it stopped catching. To my surprise accuracy improved, although it wasn't bad to begin with, it was noticeably better with a crimp. It was a large caliber (.366) so it wasn't being used for long range but even though I subsequently smoothed out the sharp spot I still crimp for that rifle.
 
Keep in mind the Lee Factory Crimp Die (FCD) is effective on non-cannelure bullets. I actually had trouble years ago (46 years to be exact) with my 30-06 pushing bullets into the case under recoil. They were Nosler Partitions and mil-surplus brass. I knew nothing about the FCD and with the pressure relief groove in those old partitions I used the crimp on my old Pacific dies to solve the problem. In reality, those cases had probably been reloaded a dozen times without annealing and I have no idea what the neck tension was. Ah, the innocence of youth.
 
i know a lot if not most on here don't think you need a crimp on your handloads.....BUT, in the nosler manual and from another buddy of mine, both seem to think the Weatherby rounds do better with a factory crimp on them, the nosler manual doesn't say this for other rounds, so I was wondering if anyone has any experience/advice with the Weatherby reloading and if crimping is something I want to do with them, I shoot a 300 and a 257 Weatherby so it's not like it would be a lot to pick up two lee factory crimp dies. Any info is appreciated
The main reason for a crimp is to keep the bullies in a case in the magazine during firing.
 
I own a 300WBY and have never had any issues reloading without crimp. As others have said, semi-auto and handguns should be crimped. I think you'd be spending unnecessary money on crimping dies. Hope this helps and happy shooting!
 
Didn't Sierra have strong works about not using a FCD due to bullet deformation? I was kinda thinking of the hunting bullets how many have a crimping groove. Not many. Wonder if dies are designed to give enough neck tension to hold the bullet in place. I came across a lesson about neck tension loading lead bullets into a 300 WSM. There was plenty in that example. Worked my neck expander to get the bullet seated. Looks like die makers may know what they are doing.
 
i know a lot if not most on here don't think you need a crimp on your handloads.....BUT, in the nosler manual and from another buddy of mine, both seem to think the Weatherby rounds do better with a factory crimp on them, the nosler manual doesn't say this for other rounds, so I was wondering if anyone has any experience/advice with the Weatherby reloading and if crimping is something I want to do with them, I shoot a 300 and a 257 Weatherby so it's not like it would be a lot to pick up two lee factory crimp dies. Any info is appreciated
It's literally a try it and see job. A light LEE factory crimp makes case tension and OAL less relevant. More consistent velocities, and less sensitivity to minor variations in powder charge, are common.
 
i know a lot if not most on here don't think you need a crimp on your handloads.....BUT, in the nosler manual and from another buddy of mine, both seem to think the Weatherby rounds do better with a factory crimp on them, the nosler manual doesn't say this for other rounds, so I was wondering if anyone has any experience/advice with the Weatherby reloading and if crimping is something I want to do with them, I shoot a 300 and a 257 Weatherby so it's not like it would be a lot to pick up two lee factory crimp dies. Any info is appreciated
I have just started loading the 257 Weatherby Mag. I have never crimped any of my long guns loads, ever. I shot my 257 with .55" 5 shot groups with good speed at 100. The SD and ES were not wonderful but the groups, I was satisfied with. Have not changed powders or played with jump yet but for its use, with these groups do t know as I will make that a priority.
 
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