Bryan Litz has expressed that the .375 caliber has about the optimum ballistics offering for ELR. Also, the Barrett .416 is a great option.I'm 9 years away from retirement so ido have some time. If I wanted to shoot to 1 or 2 miles for a bench gun what cartridge would you go with
Do you think you can get the same result by using a lighter weight bullet as a different twist barrel? I can swap out bullets a lot cheaper than a new barrel.I think I will just watch this one. too many voices stating different directions. I agree with certain people and laugh at others.
I will give just one part of the puzzle that I do not see people talking about.
What ever caliber you go with, what ever weight slug you go with. my best advice from experience shooting 1,000 yards to 3,000 yards is what ever twist you think you need.. jump up to the next tightest twist, you will never regret it. the reason is this; what ever you think will stabilize the slug, by the time your slug reaches 1/2 to 3/4 of the way there, it will have slowed enough to need that tighter twist. for example, I shot 190 grain 30 caliber slug from a 1:10" twist by the time I hit 1,500 yards the slug just destabilized even though 1:10" was good up to 200 grain slugs. after a certain yardage the slug will slow it's speed and it will slow it's rotation; both will ruin stabilization. that is why I advise you to go with a tighter twist than you think you need. I learned my lesson many years ago.
(1 mile to 2 miles and beyond) personally I would select the 408 Chey Tech, a straight taper fluted barrel, Barrel length 28" to 32", tightest twist I could get, a good muzzle brake, comfortable stock, 30 MOA offset bases, steel rings, the highest magnification/highest quality scope I could afford, and a high quality steel bi-pod with sand bags. I would also get all the reloading equipment for the caliber and the brass uniforming tools.
The funniest part about all this.. I can say that most people out there will disagree with me.
use my advice as you see fit.
I shoot at a local club almost every weekend and there are several there that shoot 6.5 creedmoor and they all shoot damm good I built a 6 creedmoor and when I shoot in the sniper match they kick me in the foot and get behind me and talk trash trying to get me to pull a shot you can’t deny the fact that the creedmoor is a shooterI am glad I just bought one!
That's a lot of good deals in there. Mine was all full retail beside the chassis, action and trigger, spending twice as much on a scope and including about $200 in reloading dies.I'm a huge fan of researching components for the best deals out there. I purchased my A5 McMillan from a guy that never mounted it to a barreled action. It was inletted for a Stiller TAC338. Paid 450.00 for it. He needed it gone. Paid 850.00 for the Stiller action New but at a sale price from a dealer that was discontinuing selling them. Barrel was purchased second hand for 325.00 from Alex Wheeler. Chambering cost me 140.00. Shilen trigger 125.00 from Butch and Ross Brake 37.00 shipped. Installing brake 50.00. Sightron bought used for 725.00. Base/Rings 175.00. Bottom metal and mag was 200.00. Brass was purchased new in box from a guy on this site. 350 pieces for 200.00. 200 were in lapua boxes new. 150 mixed head stamp new in bags. 500 Berger 300s and 250 SMK 300s paid 340.00. You'd be surprised how much you can save doing your own searching. The other option is hiring a rifle maker to do it all at one package price. That's the $7000-$10,000 option.
I think it's probably my 15th build and finding the same deals on all my projects. Time is needed and research in finding the best prices. I've got most of my components together for a new lightweight hunting rig. Waiting on the carbon wrapped barrel. If you have time and patience, it's pretty easy to save 50%+ on a DIY vs Purchase of custom rifle.That's a lot of good deals in there. Mine was all full retail beside the chassis, action and trigger, spending twice as much on a scope and including about $200 in reloading dies.
I'm glad you are a good shopper but not many people are patient and lucky enough to find deals like that on their first build.
I'm not quite there yet but my first load is going to be CIP magazine length with 250 grain Berger Elite Hunters and RL25. After it is broken in and a load developed I will probably buy some Warner Flatline 256 (I think) for single load ELR, starting with RL25 if it seems like it will work.I shoot 338 rum also what Bullets and powder are you using
10-4 I am leaning towards the Berger 250 hybrid and h1000I'm not quite there yet but my first load is going to be CIP magazine length with 250 grain Berger Elite Hunters and RL25. After it is broken in and a load developed I will probably buy some Warner Flatline 256 (I think) for single load ELR, starting with RL25 if it seems like it will work.
338 RUM like me.Berger 250s for 30 caliber or 338 ?