I just set up a Savage 110 FCP HS precision 300 win mag with a Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50. I've put about 40 rounds through it with Federal 180grn and Remington 180grn Core lokt. The best groupings I've seen have been about 5-6 inches at 100yds at best. Is this typical for the bottom of the line factory ammo? I have plans to get into reloading and I assume groupings will improve significantly with handloads. I just wanted to make sure this was normal before I install a brake or make any other improvements to the rifle along the way.
Typical factory ammo?
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NMcCullough
Well-Known Member
I would say that, no, that is not typical. Generally even low end factory ammo will give easily under 2 moa groups and often under moa. Having two loads in a row exhibit that behavior would make me think there is another issue. Maybe try another bullet weight and/or have someone else shoot it.
varmintH8R
Well-Known Member
+1. Reloading helps squeeze extra accuracy out of a gun, but its not a magic wand. IMO anything over 2MOA indicates an issue (as described above) or an inaccurate rifle. Greater than about 3MOA in a modern bolt gun in any price range is completely unacceptable (ie, it gets sent back).
I have a BLR in 7-08 that shoots really crappy. When I started reloading I took to load development for it with great ambition. Now it shoots a little less really crappy. Still more effective range than a 30-30 lever, but certainly not a precision LR option...
Let us know what you find out
I have a BLR in 7-08 that shoots really crappy. When I started reloading I took to load development for it with great ambition. Now it shoots a little less really crappy. Still more effective range than a 30-30 lever, but certainly not a precision LR option...
Let us know what you find out
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
+1
Most factory ammo will do better than that. I agree that something else is wrong with two different brands of ammo doing that bad.
The 300 Win mag is a very good round and something else is messing up the groups.
I would start by changing scopes if you have another one, if this does not fix it I suspect you have a barrel problem or a bedding problem.
If you have not bedded the HS stock don't assume that the bedding block is all you need because
if you loosen the action screws just a little , you can move the barrel back and fourth and rotate
the barrel clock wise and counter clock wise. (This is why you need to bed it).
J E CUSTOM
I decided to take J E Custom's advice and look into the scope a bit further. I hadn't made much adjustment to the side parallax as I haven't had the chance to shoot past 100yds. During rotation the knob made an audible grinding noise like there was some broken glass in the scope somewhere. So today I sent it back to Vortex and hopefully this resolves the issue. Thanks for the input fellas, I'll post an update after I get the new scope mounted and tested.
FlSavageShooter
New Member
Pretty heavy recoil on that rifle as well make sure you have good solid scope base and rings. had a similar issue not as bad but occasional flyer with my 110 and scope bases and rings help alot. bedding as mentioned before also had positive effect on mine as well.
Sadly, the PST line has been known to have quality issues, especially with higher power cartridge rifles. My suggestion is to sell the scope as soon as you get it back and get a scope that is up to the task. All the PST is a scope with upper end features without the upper end quality and durability. Truth hurts. If you're on a $1k budget stick to the basics and sacrifice unnecessary features(FFP, illumination, zero stop) for what really matters(clear glass, durability, repeatability).
I'll start off by saying Vortex's customer service lived up to their reputation. I received my scope back with an explanation stating that there was a piece inside the scope that was loose, and they also fixed the issue with the parallax adjustment. I am happy to say that after sighting in at the range, my groups have tightened up to just under an inch at 100yds using Remington Core Lokt 180gr. I'm going to hang on to this scope for now because I don't feel like I've had the opportunity to make a full evaluation. If it fouls and I have to send it back again I might try something different. Next step, bedding and hopefully a muzzle brake. If you gents have any suggestions regarding bedding or brake preference ( I don't care about noise, only effective recoil reduction) I'm all ears. Thanks again for all of the suggestions and input.
varmintH8R
Well-Known Member
Thanks for posting your results/solution. I personally find huge value when the OP comes back to explain the actual issue, the resolution, and the results afterward.
As far as brakes go, I can personally speak to the APA brakes. I have a "fat bastard" on a 338LM and it works awesome. I think the "little bastard" is appropriate for 300WM. If nothing else, check out their promo video as it is highly entertaining: [ame=http://youtu.be/tMLMof4P8Hk]The Fat Bastard Muzzle Brake vs 338 Lapua - YouTube[/ame]
I've heard great things about Holland and Painkiller brakes as well, but have never been behind them.
As far as brakes go, I can personally speak to the APA brakes. I have a "fat bastard" on a 338LM and it works awesome. I think the "little bastard" is appropriate for 300WM. If nothing else, check out their promo video as it is highly entertaining: [ame=http://youtu.be/tMLMof4P8Hk]The Fat Bastard Muzzle Brake vs 338 Lapua - YouTube[/ame]
I've heard great things about Holland and Painkiller brakes as well, but have never been behind them.
